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by Ken Zinns

After taking a few wine courses through UC Extension in the early '90s, Bay Area architect Ken Zinns developed a serious interest wine. Ken has been touring and tasting wines for nearly 20 years, and has come to love not only the wines, but also the people behind them. Ken's interest in wine is more than passive, and he's been working at several urban East Bay wineries since 2001, and is the assistant winemaker for both Eno Wines in Berkeley and Harrington Wine in San Francisco.

Family Winemakers of California - 2011
21st Annual San Francisco Wine Tasting

Report on the 21st annual wine tasting presented by the Family Winemakers of California (FWC), on Sunday, August 21st and Monday, August 22nd 2011, at Fort Mason in San Francisco. The event focuses on current releases and soon-to-be-released wines from FWC members. The two-day event included a brief trade/media tasting followed by a public tasting on Sunday afternoon, and a trade/media tasting on Monday afternoon.

The Family Winemakers of California organization is a statewide trade association that was founded in 1991. Their stated goal is "to advocate the rights and interests of its members to freely produce, market and sell their products, and…preserving the broad diversity of California wine." The organization works to influence public policy affecting small producers in the state – they have been particularly active in trying to reform direct shipping laws. There are currently over 625 FWC members, most of which are smaller, family-owned wineries. FWC hosts two annual wine-tasting events, one in San Francisco and one in the Los Angeles area.

This tasting event was dedicated to the late Jess Jackson, a key figure in California wine over the past thirty years, and one of the founders of FWC.

Overall impressions:

The San Francisco FWC tasting is an enormous event – with over 300 wineries represented in 2011, this is probably the largest annual tasting of California wines anywhere. Over 50 of these wineries were pouring at this event for the first time. A few barrel sample and library wines were poured in addition to the current releases and previews of soon-to-be-released wines. The amazing breadth of producers participating here makes this the best all-around wine event in the San Francisco Bay Area. Not only do consumers get a chance to taste wines from all over the state and from dozens of grape varieties as well as interesting blends, but a number of top-notch producers who routinely pour at the FWC tasting are rarely seen at other public events – Calera, Littorai, Paloma, and Staglin just to name a few.

Some Favorites


WHITES:

Alder Springs 2009 Chardonnay
Benovia 2009 "La Pommeraie" Chardonnay
Cartograph 2010 Gewürztraminer
Chester’s Anvil 2010 Chardonnay
Conspire 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
Dashe 2010 Riesling
Field Recordings 2010 “Fiction White”
Frostwatch 2009 “Ophira” Chardonnay
Grey Stack 2010 “Rosemary’s Block” Sauvignon Blanc
Jemrose 2010 Viognier
Mount Eden 2008 Estate Chardonnay
Tablas Creek 2010 Vermentino
Tablas Creek 2009 “Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc”

REDS:

Alder Springs 2006 “13 Tasks”
Benovia 2009 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir
Calera 2008 Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir
Coastview 2007 Syrah
Core 2006 “Cuvée Fletcher”
Dashe 2009 Todd Brothers Ranch Zinfandel
Grey Stack 2008 “The Muldoon”
Ispiri 2008 “Maylena”
Jemrose 2009 Syrah
Lagier Meredith 2009 Syrah (barrel sample)
Littorai 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Mount Eden 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Paloma 2009 Merlot
Sojourn 2009 Rodgers Creek Pinot Noir
Sojourn 2008 “Proprietary Cuvée” Cabernet Sauvignon
Vellum 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Violet-Green 2007 Cabernet Franc
Westerhold 2007 Syrah

I was able to attend both days of the event again this year. As expected, the crowds were larger on Sunday, when the public tasting took place, and the large pavilion at Fort Mason was crowded although it was not nearly as packed as it sometimes can be. But even with the tremendous number of wineries pouring, it was not difficult to step right up to most tables, and only a small number of producers generated big crowds. Monday’s trade/media tasting was less crowded but still drew a good number of people.Food tables were spread throughout the hall offering bread, crackers, and cubes of cheese, while a few other food purveyors were scattered among the winery tables. This continues to be a very well-run event and things seemed to go smoothly throughout, even down to the details.

Of special note this year was the introduction of take-away wine sales at the event – a rarity at large tastings. This allowed tasters to purchase wine right at the tasting and take it home with them, a great convenience for the public and an opportunity for wineries to gain new customers right on the spot. Dozens of wineries participated in the take-away sales this year, and I suspect we’ll see an increasing number doing this in the future.

As was the case last year, I did not try to taste whites and Rosés separately from reds, nor did I focus on specific grape varieties or wine styles. In short, I was completely unfocused! While I think this method can allow for tasting more wines in a limited time, it also presents challenges – it’s not easy to evaluate wines while going back and forth between white and reds, lighter and richer styles, etc. Still, I managed to give a fair evaluation to the wines I tasted. Al Osterheld and I tasted most of the wines together this year, which is always helpful as we gather information about the wines at the tables – two sets of eyes and ears is always more useful than one.Al was able to fill in some gaps for a few wines where I found my own notes (and memory) a bit sketchy. Notes where I’ve combined information from both of us are designated with “(AO / KZ)” at the end of the note. The list of favorites combines wines that both Al and I thought were standouts of the tasting.

Needless to say, with so many producers pouring at this event, it was not possible to stop at every winery table I’d hoped to visit, and there were quite a few I missed out on. This year, I did make a greater effort to visit more wineries that were new to me or that I’d not tried in many years, and those producers represented about 25% of the tables at which I tasted. Not surprisingly, there were some hits and misses among these. And with producers whose wines I’d tasted within the past year or so, I tried to focus on new releases or on bottlings I had not tried before, though inevitably there were a few that were repeats of wines I’d tried recently. There were also quite a few notable wineries that Al and I skipped altogether, since we had tasted many of their wines recently.

We tasted current release vintages ranging from 2005 to 2010, with most reds being from the 2008 and 2009 vintages. Looking at the list of favorites, there’s a pretty even split between the ‘08 and ’09 reds, with some ‘07s included as well. There were quite a few excellent white wines this year – most of my favorite whites were newly-released ’10 wines.

Although there were a good number of standout wines at this year’s event, overall I felt that the wines I tasted were not quite up to last year’s showing. I’m sure that’s partly due to the number of producers I visited that were first-timers for me, so I had limited prior knowledge of their wines. Another factor was the number of favorites from last year who did not pour this year – Hanzell, DuNah, Lynmar, Calluna, Roessler, Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard, Spring Mountain, and Truchard among others. I also found several producers whose wines I liked better at last year’s tasting than at this year’s.

Regardless, there were some strong wine line-ups this year – among the most exceptional were those from Benovia, Grey Stack, Jemrose, Lagier Meredith / Chester’s Anvil, Sojourn, and Tablas Creek. Other solid producers included Dashe, Frostwatch, Kendric, Ladd, Littorai, and Mount Eden. Discovering producers whose wines I had never tasted before is one of the exciting parts of the FWC tasting, and I found several promising newcomers this year – Alder Springs, Cartograph, Vellum, and Violet-Green were my favorites of these, and should be labels to watch.

No single wine tasting event beats this one for tasting the variety of wines that California has to offer, and it’s certainly worth attending one of the FWC tastings if you have the opportunity.

Selected Tasting Notes

Alder Springs Vineyard

Alder Springs 2009 Chardonnay, Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County. 40% new oak. Very light color, featuring bright, minerally citrus with a touch of spice. Lively mouthfeel and crisp finish. The oak component was well-integrated and was not overtly apparent at all – very nice Chard.

Alder Springs 2007 Syrah, Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County. About 70% whole-cluster fermentation. Medium color, showing dark berry fruit along with a savory / herbal character and a slight floral note. Big and structured, with chewy tannins.

Alder Springs 2006 “13 Tasks,” Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County.
About 67% Merlot, with the rest being Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Dark color, quite aromatic with cassis, black cherry, and coffee leading the way, along with a mineral component. Fairly full-bodied with a nice texture on the palate and a tannic finish, nice.

Comments
: Very impressive first release from Alder Springs, long-known as a top-notch vineyard source for many other wineries. Noted winemakers Pax Mahle and Erich Bradley made the Syrah and “13 Tasks,” respectively.

Analog Wine Company

Analog 2005 Red Wine, St. Helena, Napa Valley. 95% Merlot, 5% Sangiovese, aged 24 months in 50% new French, American, and Hungarian oak. Dark color, this had rather fumey, high-toned cherry, spice, and smoky oak aromas, with a medium mouthfeel and hard, tannic finish, not showing well at the tasting.

Benovia Winery

Benovia 2009 Chardonnay, "La Pommeraie," Russian River Valley. Light yellow color, displaying ripe apple and tropical fruit along with sweet, creamy oak and lees. Big and rich without being over-the-top, this had a long, smooth finish, nice.

Benovia 2009 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast.
Medium-light color, this showed floral black cherry, earth, and tea leaf aromas. Medium-light bodied with a clean mouthfeel and finish, quite pleasant.

Benovia 2009 Pinot Noir, Savoy Vineyard, Anderson Valley.
Medium ruby color, with more depth and complexity than the Sonoma Coast bottling, featuring earthy raspberry and darker fruit along with a savory note. Bigger and more structured, this is built for some bottle age and should develop nicely.

Benovia 2009 Pinot Noir, Cohn Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
Medium color, showing riper cherry fruit, spice, cola, and a bit of sweet oak on the nose. Richer mouthfeel than the Savoy bottling, with a spicy finish, nice.

Benovia 2009 Pinot Noir, “Bella Una,” Russian River Valley.
Medium color, displaying brighter aromatics than the Cohn, with ripe cherry, baking spices, a touch of earth, and more noticeable oak. Big but lively on the palate.

Benovia 2009 Pinot Noir, "La Pommeraie," Russian River Valley.
777 & 828 clones from a single vineyard on Laguna Ridge. Slightly darker color, with more intense upfront black cherry and raspberry, spice, and cola. Good acidity balanced the richness of the fruit, with a long, pleasant finish.

Benovia 2009 Grenache, Sonoma Mountain.
Medium color, with floral strawberry, cherry, and herb aromas, vibrant mouthfeel, and moderate tannins.

Benovia 2009 Zinfandel, Sonoma County.
Sourced from Cohn Vineyard. Medium-dark color, ripe and spicy raspberry and darker fruits on the nose. Rich and mouthfilling texture, with medium tannins.

Comments
: Benovia always presents a fine group of wines, and I thought this year’s releases were outstanding – several of the ’09 Pinots were noteworthy.

Black Sears Vineyards

Black Sears 2009 Zinfandel, Black Sears Estate, Howell Mountain. Medium-dark color, with ripe black cherry and berry fruit, cocoa, and spicy oak. Medium-full bodied with moderate tannins and a touch of heat on the finish.

Black Sears 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Black Sears Estate, Howell Mountain.
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark color, with smoky and herbal cassis and blueberry fruit, along with mocha and vanilla/oak notes. Fairly big and dense on the palate, with grippy tannins.

Calera Wine Company

Calera 2004 Chardonnay, Mount Harlan. Very light color, minerally apple and spice aromas, a viscous, oily texture in the mouth, and a spicy finish.

Calera 2008 Pinot Noir, Ryan Vineyard, Mount Harlan.
Light color, showing green/stemmy aromas upfront, with red cherry and spice in support. Medium-light bodied with plenty of bright acidity and a tannic finish.

Calera 2008 Pinot Noir, Mills Vineyard, Mount Harlan.
Medium-light color, this showed more fruit on the nose than the Ryan bottling, with cherry and strawberry notes along with herbs, spice, and a strong mineral component. Lively and a bit bigger on the palate than the Ryan with moderate tannins. A promising youngster that should develop nicely.

Calera 2008 Pinot Noir, Jensen Vineyard, Mount Harlan.
Slightly darker color, with black cherry and raspberry along with stemmy/spicy aromas and a touch of oak. Richer on the palate than the Mills, and considerably more hard and tannic on the finish, certainly in need of cellar time.

Calera 2004 Pinot Noir, Mills Vineyard, Mount Harlan.
Medium-light color with a brickish tone, still showing fairly green and stemmy, with earth and brushy forest floor notes and fruit in the background. More patience will be needed before this wine resolves.

Comments
: Josh Jensen always pours some older vintages at this tasting (we just missed out on a ’90 Reed). Though the whole-cluster fermentation style is readily apparent, I thought the ‘08s were less overtly stemmy at this stage than the ‘07s were last year.

Carica Wines

Carica 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Kick Ranch, Sonoma County. From 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sauvignon Musqué clones, made mostly in stainless steel. Very light color, with aromas of pineapple/tropical fruit, herbs, and a leesy note. Medium-bodied, with a pineapply finish.

Carica 2010 Rosé, Bennett Valley.
100% Grenache sourced from Judge Vineyard, made in stainless steel. Light pink/salmon color, strawberry and spice on the nose, fairly light-bodied and pleasant, with a crisp finish.

Carica 2008 “The Siren,” Kick Ranch, Sonoma County.
75% Syrah, 12.5% Grenache, 12.5% Mourvèdre.Dark purple color, displaying spicy black fruits, herbs, earth, and a touch of smoky oak, with the Syrah flavors taking the lead. Medium-full bodied and lively, with a tannic finish.

Carica 2008 Syrah, Kick Ranch, Sonoma County.
Medium-dark color, showing dark berry fruit, coffee, spice, and sweet oak. Big and rich on the palate, with grippy tannins.

Cartograph Wines

Cartograph 2010 Gewürztraminer, Floodgate Vineyard, Russian River Valley. From the old Mark West property, this is the second vintage of Gewürztraminer from the vineyard. Made in a completely dry style, in stainless steel. Very light color, this was very aromatic, showing lychee, flowers, and spice. Medium-light bodied and bright on the palate, the finish was moderate but quite tasty, nice.

Cartograph 2009 Pinot Noir, Floodgate Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
From four clones of Pinot, mostly 777, and using about 30% new oak. Medium-light color, with black cherry, spice, cola, and a touch of oak. Good acidity and balance with a tangy, spicy finish.

Cartograph 2009 Pinot Noir, Perli Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge.
From 667 and 777 clones. A bit darker color, showing riper and darker fruit than the Floodgate bottling, along with earth and spice. Bigger mouthfeel than the Floodgate, with mild tannins and a long finish.

Comments
: This was the first time I’d tasted the Cartograph wines and I was impressed. They are opening a tasting room in Healdsburg.

Coastview Vineyard / Le P’tit Paysan / Fieldfare

Le P’tit Paysan 2010 “L'Apiculteur,” Arroyo Seco. 61% Viognier, 20% Marsanne, 19% Roussanne. The wine name is French for “the beekeeper.” Medium-light yellow color, with stone fruit, citrus, and waxy aromas. Medium-bodied with a smooth, tasty finish.

Fieldfare 2009 Chardonnay, Monterey County.
Light color, showing apple, spice, and oak on the nose, medium weight in the mouth with good acidity and a fairly bright finish.

Fieldfare 2009 Pinot Noir, Monterey County.
Medium-light garnet color, with bright aromatics of red fruits, flowers, and spice. Medium-light bodied and smooth, a good basic Pinot.

Le P’tit Paysan 2010 “Le P’tit Pape,” Monterey County.
42% Mourvèdre, 42% Grenache, 16% Syrah. Medium color, this displayed darker fruits, earth, dried herbs, and baking spices. The mid-palate really brought all the flavors together, and the wine finished with moderate tannins.

Coastview 2007 Syrah, “North Block,” Monterey County.
Dark color, featuring a strong savory streak along with blackberry, smoke, and spice on the nose. Lively acidity and structure in the mouth, with refined tannins, very nice.

Le P’tit Paysan 2010 Petite Sirah, Monterey County.
Very dark color, complex aromas of flowers, black pepper, minerals, spices, and black fruits. Big, structured, and tannic, this will take some cellar time to show its best but the components are quite intriguing.

Comments
: Most of these wines were bottled only about a week prior to the tasting. The Fieldfare line is a new one for winemaker Ian Brand – these wines are in a more straightforward style than the other two labels and will go mainly to restaurants.

Core Wine Company

Turchi 2009 Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County. Sourced from the Los Alamos area. Medium-light garnet color, showing higher-toned red fruits, tea leaf, and spice. Medium acidity with a fairly smooth finish.

Core 2007 “Hard Core,” Santa Barbara County.
37% Mourvèdre, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Syrah, 4% Grenache, aged in barrel for 42 months. Medium-dark color, with earthy ripe plum and currant, spice, and dried herbs. Fairly rich mouthfeel, with medium tannins on the finish.

Core 2006 “Cuvée Fletcher,” Alta Mesa Vineyard, Santa Barbara County.
82% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre, with 5% whole-cluster fermentation, aged in barrel for 42 months. Medium purple color, with savory and spicy plum and raspberry, a mineral note and a touch of sweet oak. Big and structured on the palate, finishing with chalky tannins, nice.

Core 2007 “Mister Moreved,” Alta Mesa Vineyard, Santa Barbara County.
93% Mourvèdre, 7% Grenache, with 20% whole-cluster fermentation, aged in barrel for 42 months. Dark color, this displayed riper dark fruit aromas along with earth and herb components. Fairly rich mouthfeel, with very grippy tannins.

Comments
: I’d tasted some of Dave Corey’s wines in recent months so I limited myself to just a few of his wines this time. A number of the latest releases received extended barrel aging. His wines from Alta Mesa Vineyard often feature a chalky minerality and these were no exception.

Dashe Cellars

Dashe 2010 Dry Riesling, McFadden Ranch, Mendocino. From organically-grown fruit, and made entirely in stainless steel. Very light color, floral and minerally fruit, good acidity and texture with a bright and dry finish, very nice.

Dashe 2009 Grenache, “Les Enfants Terribles,”
Dry Creek Valley. Aged for five months in older 500-liter barrels. Medium light color with a slight haze, this showed ripe red fruits, earth, and spice on the nose. Lively mouthfeel with moderately grippy tannins.

Dashe 2009 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley.
Medium color, with brambly red berry, pepper, earth, and spice notes. Medium-light weight on the palate, medium tannins, and a tasty finish.

Dashe 2008 Zinfandel, Florence Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley.
Medium color, this had higher-toned aromas of ripe red fruits and baking spices. More full-bodied, with a medium finish.

Dashe 2008 Zinfandel, Todd Brothers Ranch, Old Vines, Alexander Valley.
Darker color, displaying intense and very spicy boysenberry and plum aromas, with dashes of pepper and sweet oak. Rich and nicely-textured in the mouth, with refined tannins and a long finish, nice.

Comments
: A strong showing for the Dashe wines. The Riesling – one of my favorites from California – is back to being totally dry (after having a touch of residual sugar in ’09), and the other wines were all solid.

Demetria Estate

Demetria 2009 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County. Sourced from Sierra Madre Vineyard, mostly barrel-fermented, with some raised in concrete. Very light color, with ripe apple and pear, plus an underlay of vanilla/oak. Medium-bodied with a lively mouthfeel and moderate finish. (AO / KZ)

Demetria 2009 “Cuvée Papou,” Estate, Santa Ynez Valley.
53% Marsanne, 47% Grenache Blanc – a somewhat different blend than previous years owing to the vintage. Very light color, tart apples, melon, peach and pear, with nice richness and spice. More weight on the palate than the Chard, with a creamy texture and tasty finish. (AO / KZ)

Demetria 2010 “Beton Blanc,” Estate, Santa Ynez Valley (barrel sample).
A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and Marsanne, with some of the fruit fermented on the skins for 27 days in a concrete “egg.” The barrel sample was cloudy, with a light pink/gray tinge. This showed peach and apricot, herbal tea, with some bitterness and tannins, interesting but not yet completely formed. (AO / KZ)

Demetria 2009 Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley.
Sourced from Sierra Madre Vineyard, from 459, 777, 667, and 828 clones. Medium-light color, with ripe red cherry and raspberry, some floral and tea leaf notes, and a little oak along with a touch of tomato. Medium-bodied with mild tannins. (AO / KZ)

Demetria 2008 Syrah, “North Slope,” Estate, Santa Ynez Valley.
A little Viognier blended in. Dark color, displaying dark berry and plum fruit, with bacon, smoke, and coffee aromas. Medium-full bodied and vibrant in the mouth, this finished with moderately grippy tannins. (AO / KZ)

Comments
: Demetria’s estate vineyard is farmed biodynamically. The “Beton Blanc” was quite intriguing, and it will be interesting to check out this wine again once it’s bottled.

Derby Wine Estates

Derby 2007 “Fifteen10” Red, Derby Vineyard, Paso Robles. 59% Syrah, 29% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre. Medium color, this featured ripe plummy fruit along with earth and dried herbs, and a touch of vanilla/oak in the background. Light-medium weight on the palate, this had fairly mild tannins on the finish.

Derby 2007 Zinfandel, Derby Vineyard, Paso Robles.
100% Zinfandel. Medium purple color, showing ripe raspberry and plum, plus smoky oak notes. Medium-bodied, with a rich texture and smooth finish.

Derby 2008 Grenache, Paso Robles.
100% Grenache. Ripe red fruits, some herbal notes, and spicy oak. Bigger and more structured in the mouth, with more grippy tannins.

Dragonette Cellars

Dragonette 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley. Very light color, with straightforward grapefruit and herb aromas, medium-bodied mouthfeel and smooth finish.

Dragonette 2009 Pinot Noir, Fiddlestix Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills.
Medium-light color, showing ripe black cherry and plum, along with earth and spice notes. Lively mouthfeel with a moderately tannic finish.

Dragonette 2009 Grenache, Santa Barbara County.
About 67% from Thompson Vineyard, with the rest from Watch Hill Vineyard plus a little Syrah and Mourvèdre blended in.Medium color, with red fruits, baking spices, and a dash of sweet oak. Structured for aging, with grippy tannins.

Dragonette 2008 Syrah, California.
50% from Shadow Canyon Vineyard, 30% from Watch Hill, and 20% from Los Tres Burros. Dark color, with blackberry, coffee, spice, and a background of vanilla/oak. Fairly rich on the palate, with moderately big tannins on the finish.

Dragonette 2008 “MJM,” California.
92% Syrah, 6% Grenache, 1% Mourvèdre, and 1% Viognier, from Shadow Canyon, Los Tres Burros, and Paderewski vineyards, 26 months in barrel. Dark color, with a more complex nose of ripe dark berry fruit, mocha, spice, earth, and oak. Rich and mouthfilling texture, with very chewy tannins that suggest cellar time will be of benefit.

Eden Canyon Vineyards

Eden Canyon 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, “Freedom from the Press,” Paso Robles. Made entirely from free-run wine. Medium color, with slightly tart black cherry aromas plus spice and a dash of sweet oak. Medium-bodied with a fairly smooth mouthfeel and finish.

Eden Canyon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Paso Robles.
Aged two years in French oak. Medium-dark color, showing more intense ripe plum and blueberry fruit, baking spices, mocha, and vanilla/oak. Richer mouthfeel and relatively mild tannins.

Eden Canyon 2008 “Jolie,” Paso Robles.
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Medium-dark purple, this displayed more herbal aromas along with darker berry fruit and an underlay of oak. More structured than the Cab, with bigger tannins on the finish.

Eden Canyon 2009 “Cat5 Melor,” California.
Blend of Zinfandel from Alexander Valley and Petite Sirah from Paso Robles. Medium color, with ripe dark berry fruit and spice on the nose, more ripe Zin character than Petite Sirah. Medium-bodied with youthful, grippy tannins.

Field Recordings Wines

Field Recordings 2009 Chenin Blanc, Jurassic Park Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley. Light color and somewhat cloudy in appearance. Slightly funky and high-toned aromas, this was better on the palate, with green apples and peaches/apricots. Medium-light bodied with a smooth finish. (AO / KZ)

Field Recordings 2010 “Fiction White,” California.
Blend of Albariño, Grenache Blanc, Malvasia Bianca, and Marsanne, sourced from Paso Robles and Santa Barbara County. Very light color, showing ripe tropical fruit along with melon and lime, and hints of flowers and spice. More weight on the palate than the Chenin Blanc, with moderate acidity and a fresh, tasty finish, nice. (AO / KZ)

Field Recordings 2010 “Fiction Red,” Paso Robles.
28% Zinfandel, 26% Tempranillo, 18% Grenache, 18% Malbec, 5% Touriga Nacional, 3% Mourvèdre, 2% Syrah. Medium-dark color, with somewhat high-toned aromatics of flowers, cherry, raspberry, and red plums. Medium-full bodied with moderate tannins. (AO / KZ)

Field Recordings 2009 “Chorus Effect,” Koligian Vineyard, Paso Robles.
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat. Medium-dark color, displaying ripe red cherries and plums along with chocolate and some noticeable oak – a bit on the big and ripe side and showing more high-toned character. Big and structured in the mouth, with a touch of heat on the finish. (AO / KZ)

Figge Cellars

Figge 2009 Chardonnay, Pelio Vineyard, Monterey County. Pelio Vineyard is located in Carmel Valley. Light yellow color, showing bright citrus and mild oak aromas, with medium mouthfeel and a smooth finish in a straightforward style.

Figge 2009 Pinot Noir, Paraiso Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands.
Medium-light ruby color, this displayed ripe and spicy black cherry and plum fruit with a touch of sweet oak. Medium-light bodied, this had a fairly smooth finish.

Figge 2009 Pinot Noir, Pelio Vineyard, Monterey County.
Medium color, with brighter red fruits and dried herbs on the nose. Another medium-light weight Pinot, with juicy acidity and more noticeable finishing tannins than the Paraiso bottling.

Figge 2007 Syrah, Sycamore Flat Vineyard, Arroyo Seco.
Medium-dark color, featuring savory plum and darker fruits along with touches of pepper and oak. Medium-bodied and structured on the palate, with moderately grippy tannins.

Frostwatch Vineyard & Winery

Frostwatch 2010 “Kismet,” Sonoma County. 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon, made 90% in stainless steel. Very light color, with bright, somewhat grassy grapefruit aromas. Medium-light bodied with a fairly crisp finish.

Frostwatch 2008 Chardonnay, Bennett Valley.
Very light color, showing minerally apple and spice with integrated oak. Medium-bodied with nice acidity and balance, and good length on the finish. (AO / KZ)

Frostwatch 2009 Chardonnay, “Ophira,” Bennett Valley.
Light yellow color, this was a bigger, richer Chard, with apple and citrus plus some lees notes, and showing more oak influence but not overdone. Creamier mouthfeel and more weight, with a smooth finish, nice. (AO / KZ)

Frostwatch 2009 Pinot Noir, Bennett Valley.
From Swan clone. Medium-light color, this displayed red cherries and earth, more forward flavors than aromas, and some herbal, tea leaf notes. Medium-light on the palate with a lively finish. (AO / KZ)

Frostwatch 2008 Merlot, Bennett Valley.
100% Merlot. Medium color, with red cherry and currant nose, herbs, a touch of oak, and more dark cherry on the palate. Medium-bodied, with nice balance and moderate tannins. (AO / KZ)

Comments
: I’ve tasted more and more impressive wines from cool Bennett Valley in recent years, and Frostwatch could be another label to watch from this area.

Graziano Family of Wines

Enotria 2010 Arneis, “Uvaggio Isabella,” Mendocino County. Very light color, minerally pear and citrus aromas with leesy notes. Medium-light bodied with a clean with a crisp finish. (AO / KZ)

Enotria 2007 Barbera, Mendocino County.
Medium color, showing bright cherry and raspberry fruit and earth on the nose. Somewhat tart acidity in the mouth, with a tangy finish and moderate tannins. (AO / KZ)

Comments
: Greg Graziano’s line-up of wines includes the Enotria, Monte Volpe, Saint Gregory, and Graziano labels.

Grey Stack Cellars

Grey Stack 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, “Rosemary’s Block,” Dry Stack Vineyard, Bennett Valley. Very light color, with aromatic fig and peach aromas and just a touch of fresh herbs. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and a long, crisp finish, nice.

Grey Stack 2010 Chardonnay, Bennett Valley.
Tank-fermented, aged in stainless steel and neutral oak. Light color, showing bright citrus and green apple on the nose, smooth texture and medium weight on the palate, and a clean finish.

Grey Stack 2009 Pinot Noir, “The Fisherman,” Four Brothers Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
Medium ruby color, this displayed plum and berry fruit along with spicy oak. Somewhat tight and structured right now, this had a tangy finish.

Grey Stack 2008 “The Muldoon,” Greywacke Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
57% Syrah, 43% Grenache. Dark color, savory dark fruits, baking spices, herbs, and a touch of sweet oak. Rich but not dense, this had a smooth mouthfeel with fairly grippy finishing tannins, tasty now but should improve with more bottle age.

Grey Stack 2007 Syrah, “Marie’s Block,” Dry Stack Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
Dark color, with black fruits, grilled meat, and spice on the nose. Rich and mouthfilling but with a lively texture and moderate tannins, nice.

Grey Stack 2008 Syrah, Sonoma County.
50% each from Dry Stack and Greywacke vineyards. Dark color, showing a similar character to the ’07 but with a distinct minerally note and brighter acidity. This finished with chewy tannins.

Grey Stack 2009 Syrah, Greywacke Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
Dark color, not surprisingly this seemed more primary and youthful, displaying bright dark fruit aromas and big tannins, but still needing time to develop some complexity and fill out the mid-palate.

Comments
: The “Rosemary’s Block”Sauvignon Blanc is a consistent standout. Peter Young poured us a Syrah vertical consisting of the current ’07 wine along with two more recent vintages that have been bottled but not yet released. An interesting comparison, and the ’07 was particularly good.

Hestan Vineyards

Hestan 2008 Chardonnay, San Francisco Bay. Light yellow color, showing higher-toned aromas of fig, spice, and vanilla/oak, with a mildly nutty note. Medium-rich mouthfeel and a smooth finish.

Stephanie 2006 Merlot, Napa Valley.
Medium color, with herbal notes along with black cherry and spicy oak. Smooth texture with mild tannins.

Stephanie 2007 Red Wine, Napa Valley
. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Medium-dark color, with herbal cassis and plum aromas along with vanilla/oak and a minerally component. Rich on the palate with good balance and a moderately tannic finish.

Meyer 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
. Dark color, with a more pronounced green olive and herb/tobacco character along with dark fruit and sweet oak. More structured and tannic than the other wines.

Comments
: Hestan Vineyards produces three separate labels, Hestan, Stephanie, and Meyer. I thought the Stephanie Red Wine showed best among the wines at the table.

Ispiri Wines

Ispiri 2009 Pinot Noir, Corona Creek Vineyard, Sonoma Coast. 115 clone, 33% new oak. Medium ruby color, earthy and spicy black cherry fruit, medium-bodied with good balance and a lively finish.

Ispiri 2008 “Maylena,” Alexander Valley.
88% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% new oak. Medium-dark color, this showed bright black cherry and plum, dried herbs, and smoky oak on the nose. Elegant texture on the palate with moderate tannins, nice.

Ispiri 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley.
100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% new oak. Darker color, with aromas of ripe cassis and blueberry fruit, tobacco, spice, and a touch of chocolate. Big and structured, this finished with grippy tannins.

Comments
: Ispiri is a label from Arista winemaker Leslie Sisneros, and the wines have been quite good. The “Maylena” blend is named for Leslie’s two daughters.

Jemrose Wines

Jemrose 2009 Viognier, Egret Pond Vineyard, Bennett Valley. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak, no malolactic. Very light color, stone fruit and floral aromas, smooth texture on the palate but with good balancing acidity, tasty finish.

Jemrose 2010 Viognier, Egret Pond Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
Pre-release sample. Very light straw color, brighter aromatics of stone and tropical fruit, with a touch less of the floral component but adding a minerally note. Medium-bodied and more crisp than the ’09, with a long, fresh finish, nice.

Jemrose 2008 Grenache, Foggy Knoll Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
About 5% Syrah and 10% new oak. Medium color, bright red fruits and dried herbs, with some spice and oak notes underneath. Lively mouthfeel with moderately grippy tannins, nice.

Jemrose 2008 Syrah, Cardiac Hill Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
From five Syrah clones, 30% whole-cluster fermentation with 30% new oak. Dark color, with ripe dark berry fruit along with lots of black pepper plus meaty and herbal components. Fairly rich on the palate, with big, chewy tannins on the finish.

Jemrose 2009 Syrah, Cardiac Hill Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
Pre-release sample. Same clones and winemaking as the ’08, but with 3% co-fermented Viognier. Dark color, showing floral, peppery black fruits, along with grilled meat and black olive. Brighter mouthfeel than the ’08, with a grippy tannic structure that suggests this will age very well – one of the best Syrahs of the tasting.

Jemrose 2008 “Gloria’s Gem,” Bennett Valley.
55% Syrah, 45% Merlot, about 50% new oak. Dark color, this featured ripe plum, tobacco/herb, and mocha and vanilla/oak aromas. Big and rich, this had fairly big tannins on the long finish.

Comments
: Jemrose presented one of the strongest wine line-ups of the event, and the two pre-release wines in particular were outstanding. Russell Bevan is taking over the winemaking duties from Michael Browne and Shane Finley this year.

Kendric Vineyards

Kendric 2008 Pinot Noir, Marin County.About 75% whole-cluster fermentation. Medium-light color, with bright aromas of red fruits with some herb, spice, and floral notes. Lighter-bodied and quite lively on the palate, this had a long, tasty finish.

Kendric 2007 Syrah, Shenandoah Valley.
Medium purple color, showing earthy raspberry and currant fruit along with herb and mineral components, plus a touch of oak. Nice acidity and structure – more balance and elegance than you find in most Amador Syrahs.

Comments: A couple of very good wines from Kendric, an under-the-radar producer that’s deserving of more attention

Ladd Cellars

Ladd 2007 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast. Medium-light garnet color, with bright, tangy strawberry and bing cherry, spice, and earth aromas. Very lively mouthfeel with a lingering finish.

Ladd 2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley.
Medium-light color, showing black cherry and darker fruits, along with more spice and more body and texture than the Sonoma Coast bottling.

Ladd 2007 Pinot Noir, “Cuvée Abigail,” Sonoma Coast.
Medium-light color, this featured a darker fruit profile, with bigger earth and spice components than the Sonoma Coast bottling. Echoing the long, tangy finish of the first wine, this had more weight on the palate and more structure, suggesting that further aging will be of benefit, nice.

Comments:
I’d tasted Ladd’s upcoming ’08 Pinots recently but wanted to revisit the current ’07 releases. I’ve gone back and forth on preferring the Sonoma Coast vs. Russian River bottlings, and I thought the ’07 Sonoma Coast wines were showing better at this tasting. (Disclosure – I’ve helped out on occasion at Ladd Cellars, though not with these particular wines)

Lagier Meredith Vineyard / Chester’s Anvil Wines

Chester’s Anvil 2010 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast (barrel sample). Light yellow color, very aromatic with citrus and a hint of tropical fruit, and touches of spice and lees. Medium weight with a vibrant texture in the mouth and a bright, lingering finish, very nice.

Chester’s Anvil 2010 “Gretna Green,” Napa Valley (barrel sample).
100% Roussanne. Slightly deeper color than the Chardonnay, showing apple and pear, with spice and wax notes. Fuller-bodied than the Chardonnay, with a smooth finish.

Chester’s Anvil 2009 “Hattori Hanzo,” Napa Valley (barrel sample).
20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 30% Syrah, 10% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot. Dark color, with cassis, herb, and tobacco aromas along with a touch of black pepper. Big but very lively on the palate, with chewy tannins.

Chester’s Anvil 2009 Malbec, Mount Veeder (barrel sample).
100% Malbec. Dark color with a more pronounced herb/tobacco component than the “Hattori Hanzo” along with dark fruits and spice. Very bold and tannic, this shows lots of promise but needs plenty of time.

Chester’s Anvil 2009 Zinfandel, Mount Veeder (barrel sample).
This will be the last Chester’s Anvil bottling from Chester Brandlin’s vineyard. Dark color, spicy berry and earth on the nose, with very good acidity and firm tannins on the finish.

Lagier Meredith 2009 Mondeuse, Mount Veeder (barrel sample).
This will be Lagier Meredith’s first release of Mondeuse from their vineyard. Very dark color, this shows ripe dark berry fruit, loads of pepper, spice, and a mineral note. Huge and mouthfilling but not overly tannic, this is both a fun and a serious wine.

Lagier Meredith 2009 Syrah, Mount Veeder (barrel sample).
Dark color, with black fruits, pepper, a slight floral note, and a more noticeable black olive component than most Lagier Meredith Syrahs. A spicy character comes out more in the mid-palate and in the very long finish, very nice.

Comments
: Carole Meredith was pouring their Chester’s Anvil wines (a collaboration with their neighbors Aaron & Claire Pott of Pott Wine) along with their Lagier Meredith wines. The barrel samples will be bottled in September. Carole described Mondeuse as “Syrah’s crazy uncle.” Overall this was an exceptional group of wines.

Littorai Wines

Littorai 2009 Chardonnay, Mays Canyon Vineyard, Russian River Valley. Very light color, bright and apply aromas with integrated oak overtones. Good focus, medium weight with a moderate finish.

Littorai 2009 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast.
Medium-light ruby color, black cherry, berry, earth, and spice on the nose, very good acidity with a tangy lingering finish, nice.

Littorai 2008 Pinot Noir, Platt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
Medium-light color, a bit bigger and darker than the appellation bottling along with a more noticeable oak component. Medium-bodied and well-balanced.

Littorai 2008 Pinot Noir, The Pivot Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
Medium-light color, showing riper black cherry fruit along with earth and spice notes, this had a little more weight in the mouth and a medium-length finish.

Littorai 2008 Pinot Noir, The Haven Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
A mix of 12 Pinot clones, from a biodynamic vineyard planted by Ted Lemon. Slightly darker color, with more intense black cherry, plum, and oak aromas, this featured more richness on the palate and a firmer, more structured finish.

Comments
: The ’08 vintage was not the easiest for many north coast producers, and I felt that the’08 Littorai Pinots, while still very good (and showing no trace of smoke taint) were a notch below their usual excellence. The ’09 Sonoma Coast promises a step back up in that vintage.

Marilyn Remark Winery

Marilyn Remark 2009 Marsanne, Loma Pacific Vineyard, Monterey County. Light color, with apple and pear, along with some floral and almond notes. Medium-bodied with a creamy texture and smooth finish, nice balance of rich fruit and acidity. (AO / KZ)

Marilyn Remark
2009 Roussanne, Lockwood Valley Vineyard, Monterey County. Light straw color, with honeysuckle, ripe peach and apricot, and touches of honey and spice on the nose. Bigger and richer texture on the palate than the Marsanne. (AO / KZ)

Marilyn Remark
2009 “VMR,” Monterey County. 18% Viognier, 40% Marsanne, 42% Roussanne. Light color, showing aromas of white flowers along with ripe peach tropical fruit. Richer mouthfeel with balancing acidity, and a smooth finish. (AO / KZ)

Marilyn Remark
2008 Grenache, Wild Horse Road Vineyard, Monterey County. Medium-light ruby color, this featured slightly high-toned red fruits, baking spice, and a noticeable oak component. Medium-bodied with moderate tannins. (AO / KZ)

Marilyn Remark
2008 Syrah, Arroyo Loma Vineyard, Monterey County. Medium color, displaying ripe raspberry and dark plum fruit, pepper, spicy oak notes, and less of the slate-like minerality than found in some previous vintages. Medium-full bodied, with bigger tannins. (AO / KZ)

Meander Wines

Conspire 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford, Napa Valley. Made in stainless steel with both Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Musqué clones. Light straw color, this featured bright grapefruit, lime, and fresh grass/herb aromas. Moderately viscous, yet lively and fresh in the mouth, with a crisp finish, nice. (AO / KZ)

Aiken 2009 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Mountain.
Medium color, showing ripe red cherry, some charry oak, and lots of spice, with a touch of grapefruit. Medium-bodied with a fairly smooth finish. (AO / KZ)

Meander 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark color, with dark berries and currants, chocolate, tobacco leaf and a touch of green olive, a dusty note, and smoky oak. Big and rich on the palate, with a medium finish. (AO / KZ)

Comments
: We tasted wines at the Meander table from winemaker Amy Aiken’s three labels.

Mount Eden Vineyards

Mount Eden 2009 Chardonnay, Wolff Vineyard, Edna Valley. Light yellow color, lemon and butter aromas, creamy and medium weight on the palate, smooth and fairly straightforward Chard.

Mount Eden 2008 Chardonnay, “Saratoga Cuvée,” Santa Cruz Mountains.
50% of this is sourced from declassified estate fruit. A bit lighter color than the Edna Valley bottling, more focused aromas with citrus, mineral, and earth meshing nicely. Brighter mouthfeel with a lively finish.

Mount Eden 2008 Chardonnay, Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Light color, with more earth and mineral components along with citrus and herb notes. The acidity suggests this will be age-worthy while the long, pleasant finish makes it tasty now as well, very nice.

Mount Eden 2009 Pinot Noir, Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Medium-light ruby color, showing ripe red cherry aromas along with some floral and earth elements in the background. Fairly light-bodied with a slight bitter note on the finish.

Mount Eden 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Medium-dark color, with bright currant, herb, and earth aromas. Moderate weight on the palate and lively, this showed big, chewy tannins on the finish, a promising young mountain Cab.

Domaine Eden 2009 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Sourced from the old Cinnabar planting. A bit darker color than the estate bottling, and not quite as bright or focused. Showing black cherry and raspberry fruit and earth on the nose, this was medium-bodied with a more tannic finish.

Domaine Eden 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Medium-dark color, with more pronounced herb/tobacco character than the estate bottling, this also displayed black cherry and earth notes. Medium-bodied with a tangy finish.

Comments
: The estate Chardonnay and Cabernet were very good, though the estate Pinot did not show quite as well as other recent vintages. The Domaine Eden series is replacing the winery’s Saratoga Cuvée bottlings.

Paloma Vineyard

Paloma 2009 Merlot, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley. About 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and around 33% new oak. Medium purple color, with black cherry, herb/tobacco, and floral aromas, along with a supporting touch of sweet oak. Medium-bodied and lively on the palate, impeccable balance, with moderate tannins and a lingering finish, very nice.

Comments
: Winery owner Barbara Richards and son Sheldon were behind the table, and it is always a pleasure to taste their wine.

Patland Estate Vineyards

Patland 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley. Made mostly in stainless steel, with 18% new oak. Light straw color, featuring ripe lime and herb aromas. Bright and mildly creamy mouthfeel with a fairly smooth finish.

Patland 2008 Proprietary Red Wine, Terra del Cuore, Napa Valley.
58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Malbec, 18% Syrah. Dark color, with blueberry and currant fruit along with herb/tobacco notes and an overlay of vanilla/oak. Moderately rich on the palate, with medium tannins on the finish.

Patland 2008 Syrah, Stagecoach Vineyard, Napa Valley.
Very dark color, showing peppery dark berry fruit along with herbs, mocha, and vanilla/oak on the nose. Big and mouthfilling texture, with a very grippy tannic finish.

Patland 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stagecoach Vineyard, Napa Valley.
92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Malbec. Dark color, displaying ripe cassis, mocha, with notes of dried herbs and sweet oak. Structured on the palate with chewy tannins.

Siduri Wines

Novy 2009 Viognier, Russian River Valley. Made in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation. Light yellow color, tropical fruit and peach aromas, medium-bodied with a pleasant finish.

Siduri 2009 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills.
From 67% Clos Pepe and 33% Cargasacchi vineyards. Medium color, with earthy black cherry and raspberry, spice, and a touch of vanilla/oak on the nose. Medium-bodied with a lively mouthfeel and fairly mild tannins.

Siduri 2010 Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands.
Sourced mostly from Rosella’s Vineyard. Medium ruby color, showing brighter and riper fruit than the SRH bottling along with lots of spice. A bit richer on the palate, with some youthful tannins on the finish.

Novy 2009 Syrah, Napa Valley.
Dark color, featuring dark berry fruit, spice, a bit of chocolate, and a savory note. Medium-full bodied, with grippy tannins.

Sojourn Cellars

Sojourn 2009 Pinot Noir, Rodgers Creek Vineyard, Sonoma Coast. About 80% Pommard clone, plus 777, with about 10% whole-cluster fermentation. Medium-light color, pretty floral aromas along with bright red fruits, tea leaf, and spice, and a touch of sweet oak. Juicy texture in the mouth and a long finish, nice.

Sojourn 2009 Pinot Noir, Wohler Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
115, 667, and 828 clones. Medium color, with black cherry fruit and bigger spice and earth components. Moderately rich mouthfeel with good acidity and a tangy finish.

Sojourn 2009 Pinot Noir, Ridgetop Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
From a vineyard near Annapolis, with 115, 667, and 777 clones. Medium color, with brighter fruit aromas than the Wohler, showing red fruits along with spice and orange rind. Bigger and more structured on the palate, finishing with medium tannins, quite distinctive.

Sojourn 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain.
The vineyard is at a 1,750-foot elevation near the town of Angwin, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark color, with cassis and darker fruits, dried herbs, earth, and vanilla/oak on the nose. Medium-rich and lively in the mouth, with big, chewy tannins.

Sojourn 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, “Proprietary Cuvée,” Napa Valley.
100% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from 50% Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard, 40% Spring Mountain, and 10% Howell Mountain. Dark color, showing brighter fruit than the Howell Mountain bottling, with cassis, plum, minerals, and chocolate aromas. Rich and elegant texture, with more refined finishing tannins, very nice.

Comments
: We asked Sojourn’s Craig Haserot to pick out a few of the many wines on his table for us to taste, and they turned out to be among the strongest group of wines we tried during the event. Most of these wines were pre-release samples.

Tablas Creek Vineyard

Tablas Creek 2010 Vermentino, Paso Robles. 100% Vermentino, fermented in stainless steel. Very light color, with fresh and minerally melon and lime aromas. Medium-light bodied with bright acidity and a long, clean finish, nice.

Tablas Creek 2010 “Patelin de Tablas Blanc,” Paso Robles.
50% Grenache Blanc, 33% Viognier, 10% Roussanne, 7% Marsanne, fermented in stainless steel. Light straw color, more fruit-forward than the Vermentino, showing riper and slightly floral stone fruit and tropical fruit on the nose. A bit richer on the palate, with a bright, crisp finish, nice.

Tablas Creek 2010 “Côtes de Tablas Blanc,” Paso Robles.
54% Viognier, 30% Grenache Blanc, 8% Marsanne, 8% Roussanne, fermented in stainless steel. Light color, this had a more restrained nose of stone fruits and spice, with a mineral note. Creamier mouthfeel, with a lively finish.

Tablas Creek 2009 “Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc,” Paso Robles.
62% Roussanne, 26% Grenache Blanc, 12% Picpoul Blanc. Medium-light straw color, showing stone fruit, fig, and pear aromas, lees, and a bigger spice component. Noticeably more weight in the mouth than the other whites, this still featured the minerally acidity shared by all the wines. Very good now but deserves cellar time to develop.

Tablas Creek 2010 “Patelin de Tablas,” Paso Robles.
39% Syrah, 36% Grenache, 22% Mourvèdre, 3% Counoise. Medium color, bright and aromatic with ripe black cherry and plum, earth, and spice, along with a savory note. Medium-bodied with a clean finish and fairly mild tannins.

Comments
: Tablas Creek was our final stop of the tasting on Monday, and with limited time before the event closed, we focused mainly on the tasty white wines at the table. The new “Patelin de Tablas” wines are sourced from both Tablas Creek and nearby vineyards, and both the red and (particularly) the white versions were noteworthy wines and good values.

The Winery SF

The Winery SF 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast. Mostly from Lake County fruit. Very light color, with slightly grassy grapefruit/citrus aromas. Lighter-bodied with a fairly lively mouthfeel and finish.

The Winery SF 2009 “Love Child,” North Coast.
Blend of mostly Marsanne and Roussanne with a little Viognier. Medium-light gold color, with ripe apple, spice, and wax on the nose. Moderately rich mouthfeel and finish.

The Winery SF 2009 “Ask Alice,” North Coast.
Rosé of Syrah. Light salmon color, with ripe watermelon and spice notes, medium-bodied with a smooth finish.

The Winery SF 2008 “Flower Power,” North Coast.
A blend featuring mostly Grenache. Medium-light ruby color, showing spicy red fruits and dried herbs, lighter-bodied on the palate but with moderate tannins.

The Winery SF 2008 “Rock Star,” North Coast.
Syrah-dominated (90+%) blend. Medium-dark color, with ripe dark berry fruit, earth, and spice on the nose along with a minerally note. Bigger mouthfeel with more grip on the finish.

The Winery SF 2008 “Speak,” North Coast.
A blend of mostly Mourvèdre and Syrah. Medium-dark color, with smoky plum, herb, and earth aromas, more structured in the mouth and a tannic finish.

The Winery SF 2008 “Values,” North Coast.
Zinfandel-based blend. Medium-dark color, showing ripe, higher-toned berry fruit and baking spices. Bright on the palate, and not too tannic on the finish.

Comments
: This is a new label from winemaker Bryan Kane. Many of the wines feature colorful labels with names meant to evoke the “spirit of the ‘60s” in San Francisco. (Disclosure – I‘ve done some cellar and bottling work for Bryan).

Thomas Fogarty Winery

Thomas Fogarty 2008 Gewürztraminer, Monterey County. Very light color, intense lychee and spice aromas, medium-light bodied with a crisp, dry finish.

Thomas Fogarty 2008 Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Light color, minerally apple/pear with some leesy notes. Medium weight on the palate with a lively finish.

Thomas Fogarty 2009 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Medium-light ruby color, fairly bright aromatics of red fruits, herbs, and a touch of oak. A lighter-bodied Pinot with good acidity and a lingering finish.

Thomas Fogarty 2006 “Lexington,” Santa Cruz Mountains.
About 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% each Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Herbal cassis and a bit of baking spice on the nose, fairly lean in the mouth with moderate tannins.

Thomas Fogarty 2006 Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains.
Medium-dark color, with dried herbs in the forefront along with plum and blueberry fruit. Medium-light weight and not too tannic.

Vellum Wine Craft

Vellum 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot, about 55% new oak. Dark color, featuring bright cassis fruit along with notes of green olive, earth, baking spices, and a touch of mocha. Medium-bodied and lively on the palate, it finished with fairly big but refined tannins, very nice.

Comments
: This was my first experience with Vellum, and it was my favorite Cabernet of the tasting. Beautifully-balanced, with well-integrated oak, I wish I found more Napa Cabs like this one.

Violet-Green Winery

Violet Green 2007 “Ultra Violet,” Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County. 50% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc. Medium-dark color, with slightly floral plum and cassis fruit, herbs, and a touch of spicy oak. Medium-bodied, with a vibrant mouthfeel and moderate tannins on the finish, nice.

Violet Green 2007 Cabernet Franc, Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County.
100% Cabernet Franc. Very dark color, showing more herbal character along with dark berries and a sweet oak undercurrent. More structured on the palate, with great acidity and grippy tannins, this should age nicely.

Violet Green 2007 “La Croix,” Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. Dark color, featuring ripe black cherry and dried herb aromas. A bit lighter on the palate than the Cab Franc, with more brightness on the mid-palate, but with bigger tannins on the finish.

Violet Green 2006 Syrah, Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County.
100% Syrah. Dark color, showing black fruits, spice, and herbal notes. Big, structured, and quite tannic.

Comments
: This was my first time tasting the Violet-Green wines – the name comes from a type of swallow. They poured a strong line-up – all sourced from Alder Springs Vineyard – and I liked the first two wines in particular.

Von Holt Wines

Von Holt 2009 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley. Medium-light color, with cherry, spice, and a touch of cola. Lively mouthfeel, with a tangy finish.

Von Holt 2009 Pinot Noir, Suacci Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
Medium-light color, with brighter aromas of cranberry and tart cherry. Leaner on the palate with more acidity and tannin, this needs a year or two to settle down and show its best.

Von Holt 2008 Syrah, Old Lakeville Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
From a vineyard in the Petaluma Gap area. Dark color, spicy and smoky dark berry fruit, along with black olive and herb notes. Medium-rich in the mouth, with a long, tasty finish, nice.

Von Holt 2008 Syrah, Hoppe-Kelly Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
Dark color, with more fruit-forward blackberry aromas than the Old Lakeville bottling, plus spice and a touch of sweet oak. Rich but not heavy, with medium-big tannins.

Comments
: These wines were made at Ed Kurtzman’s winery in San Francisco by Shane McManigle, who’s moved on to Belle Pente Winery in Willamette Valley. Upcoming Von Holt wines are being made by Ed’s assistant winemaker John Fones. The ’08 Old Lakeville Syrah was particularly good. (Disclosure – I’ve helped out on occasion during crush and bottling for Von Holt).

Westerhold Family Vineyards

Westerhold 2007 Syrah, Bennett Valley. Very dark color, with aromatic dark berry fruit, savory and floral notes, and sweet oak in support. Quite rich and mouthfilling texture but still lively, with a long, tasty finish, nice.

Westerhold 2008 Syrah, Bennett Valley.
Very dark purple, this wine displayed riper and more upfront fruit than the ’07, showing less of the savory component and more vanilla/oak. Big and lush on the palate, with grippier tannins than the ’07.

Comments: The wines are made by Russell Bevan. I’ve tasted these wines in the past, and the ’07 is now moving past its youthful, primary phase and is becoming more complex.



 

 

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