Alfaro Family Vineyards
Richard and Mary Kay Alfaro established their vineyards and winery in the Corralitos area in the late 1990s. About 56 acres of estate vineyards are planted, and the winery produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, and Grüner Veltliner. The Alfaros’ son Ryan has now taken over the winemaking from Richard. I enjoyed all three wines at their table, starting with the 2022 La Playita Vineyard Estate Grüner Veltliner, with subtle citrus, herb, and pepper aromas and fine acidity. The 2021 Trout Gulch Vineyard Estate Chardonnay displayed bright pear, spice, and floral notes, with a lively medium-bodied mouthfeel and finish. The red-fruited 2021 Alfaro Family Vineyard Pinot Noir had undertones of tea leaf, flowers and spice, with fine structure..
Aptos Vineyard
Aptos Vineyard was founded by the Marlo family in 1974, and is now owned by their friends James Baker & Tina Cacace and their family. They re-launched the old Aptos Vineyard label beginning with the 2018 vintage. Several noted vintners make the Aptos wines. The 2020 “De Novo” Chardonnay, made by John Benedetti, showed bright pear and stone fruit aromas plus spice and vanilla in support, with a pleasant texture and finish. Brandon Armitage made the 2020 “Exhibit 3B” Merlot, which featured black cherry fruit plus herb and earth notes, with medium weight and enough structure for mid-term cellaring.
Beauregard Vineyards
Amos Beauregard established his ranch near Bonny Doon in 1945, and his grandson Jim and Jim’s son Ryan now manage about 105 acres of vineyards in the area. The Beauregard label was founded in 1999, and Ryan makes the wines. I enjoyed both wines that Ryan poured at the tasting, and my favorite was the 2021 Beauregard Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon. This had lots of upfront plum and black currant fruit, spice, dried herbs, and a touch of pepper, with good structure and firm tannins.
Big Basin Vineyards
Big Basin was established by Bradley Brown in 1998, with the first plantings at the estate vineyard coming in 2000. Their 10 acres of estate vines are certified organic and dry-farmed, and they also buy fruit from a number of other noted vineyards. Blake Yarger joined the Big Basin team in 2017 and became their winemaker in 2021. The 2021 Kimari Vineyard Chardonnay had citrus, green apple, and floral aromas, with fine acidity and a lively finish. The 2021 Ascona Vineyard Pinot Noir displayed red fruit with notes of tea leaf, flowers, and spice, with great structure – this should benefit from additional bottle age. The 2019 Rattlesnake Rock Syrah, fermented entirely with whole clusters, was a standout, with savory, meaty aromas along with dark berry fruit, herbs, and a touch of black olives, with a big texture and grippy tannins – very good now but has the potential to develop nicely with further cellaring.
Birichino
Proprietors Alex Krause and John Locke established Birichino in 2008. While they make Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet, they’re also known for their wines from varieties that were once more common in California than they are now – Chenin Blanc, old-vine Grenache and Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Zinfandel among them. A highlight at their table was the 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Chardonnay, which showed citrus, spice, and earth notes with loads of acidity along with medium body, and a long finish. The 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was another winner, with savory, herbal black currant fruit, spice, and earth, great texture and fine tannins – worthy of additional time in the cellar.
Kings Mountain Vineyards
Winery owner Mike Markkula was an early investor and CEO at Apple Computer. The small estate vineyard was planted in 1992 above the Woodside area. I particularly liked two wines at their table, beginning with the 2019 Estate Clone 13 Pinot Noir – this had earth black cherry and tea leaf aromas, with a lively texture and good structure. The 2002 Meritage library wine includes all five classic red Bordeaux varieties but is mostly from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. With black currant, spice, and earth aromas, this had a nicely-aged character and a still-grippy tannic finish.
Lago Lomita Vineyards
Mark & Robin Porter purchased their 2,600-foot elevation property in 1991 and began planting their 12-acre vineyard in 2014. They grow Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. My favorite at their table was the 2018 Monte Sereno / Lago Azul Blocks Pinot Noir from five Pinot clones at their estate vineyard. This had lots of black cherry fruit plus earth, spice, and vanilla undertones, with a pleasant mouthfeel and finish.
Left Bend Winery
Left Bend is the project of friends Richard Hanke and winemaker Gary Robinson, with 2010 being their inaugural vintage. The winery name refers to slight bend in the San Andreas Fault that helped form the Santa Cruz Mountains. Their estate vineyard is in the hills near Mount Madonna. There were two non-vintage blends at this table, with my favorite being the NV “Mashup Version 7.” Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah made in a solera style from the 2010-2019 vintages, it featured herbal darker berry fruit, spice, and earth notes with a moderately tannic finish..
Lester Estate Wines
Dan and Pat Lester established their vineyard in the Corralitos area in the late 1990s, and Steve Johnson heads up the family label. They work with several noted winemakers for their Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, and each crafts a different expression of wine from the vineyard. The 2021 Chardonnay made by John Benedetti had pear and apple notes along with spice and floral undertones, with great acidity. Another highlight was the 2020 “Domingo” Pinot Noir made by Justin Massa, with floral and spice notes to support its red fruit profile, plus a touch of pepper, a lively texture and fine tannins..
Madson Wines
Established in 2018, Madson is the label of Cole Thomas, Ken Swegles & Abbey Crystal. Cole is the winemaker, while Ken is a noted viticulturist who works with a number of Santa Cruz Mountains vineyards. Wines include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Gamay Noir, and others. All three wines at this table – all from Ascona Vineyard – were very nice. A favorite was the citrusy and earthy 2022 Ascona Vineyard Chardonnay, with a pleasant chalky mineral texture and finish. The 2022 Ascona Vineyard Pinot Noir, fermented entirely with whole clusters, was another standout – this had herbal and floral black cherry and spice aromas, with plenty of structure, a wine that should benefit from cellaring.
Maison Areion
Located in the Woodside area, vintner Nicolas Vonderheyden produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and several Bordeaux-variety wines for his Maison Areion label. I liked all three wines that Nicolas poured and thought two of them were particular highlights. The 2019 Chardonnay displayed bright pear, apple, and subtle floral aromas with medium weight and nice acidity, while the 2019 Merlot had black cherry, herb, and spice notes with a lively mouthfeel and fine tannins.
Martin Ranch Winery
The husband and wife team of Thérèse & Dan Martin began planting their vineyard in 1993 and released their first wines in 2002. They grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Nebbiolo, and Pinot Noir, and they produce wine under three labels – J.D. Hurley, Soulmate, and Thérèse Vineyards. My favorite at this table was the 2013 “Soulmate” Estate Nebbiolo, with floral red fruit, earth, and a touch of spice on the nose, lighter texture with plenty of tannin on the finish.
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McHenry Vineyard
The winery was founded by Dean McHenry – the first chancellor of UC Santa Cruz – and his wife and children. The vineyard was originally planted in 1970 and the first commercial releases came in 1980. They grow only Pinot Noir, with Pommard, Swan, 13, and 115 clones. Ryan Beauregard made the 2021 McHenry wines, and I enjoyed both of them. The 2021 Estate Pinot Noir displayed red fruit and fresh herbs with earthy notes in support, medium-light body, and good structure. Even better was the 2021 “Swan Clone” Estate Pinot Noir – this had black cherry, tea leaf and forest floor aromas with greater depth, a bit more heft on the palate, and a more structured character. Both wines should benefit from additional bottle age, particularly the “Swan Clone” bottling.
Mount Eden Vineyards
Mount Eden dates back to 1945 and legendary vintner Martin Ray. The vineyard, at 2,000-foot elevation, was replanted beginning in 1984, including some cuttings propagated from the original vines there. Jeffrey Patterson is the Mount Eden proprietor/winemaker, and his son Reid – who is taking on a larger role in the winery – was on hand at the tasting. The 2020 Estate Chardonnay featured apple and pear fruit, spice, and earth aromas, medium weight with a fine mouthfeel and finish – should continue to develop nicely with further bottle age. The 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was a standout, with bright black currant and plum fruit, savory herbal and spice notes, a lively texture, and fine tannins – another ageworthy wine.
Neely Wine
The Neely family’s estate Spring Ridge Vineyard is located below Windy Hill in Portola Valley. Initially planted in the early 1980s, the vineyard blocks now total about 16 acres, with mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a little Grüner Veltliner in a new block. Shalini Sekhar is the Neely winemaker. The 2019 Spring Ridge Vineyard Bee Block Chardonnay displayed fresh pear and stone fruit aromas with floral notes, a touch of spice, and fine acidity. Another standout was the 2019 Spring Ridge Vineyard Upper Picnic Block Pinot Noir, with savory tea leaf, black cherry, and earth notes, a lively texture, and good structure.
Rexford Winery
Joe Miller, who is Professor Emeritus of Astronomy and Astrophysics at UC Santa Cruz, established Rexford in 2008. They produce wines from Monterey and San Benito counties as well as from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Joe and his son Sam are the winemakers, and Joe was on hand to pour his wines at the tasting. My favorite at this table was the 2017 Lester Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, with black cherry, spice, and earth aromas and good acidity.
Ridge Vineyards
The first Ridge wines, made by Dave Bennion, were from 1962, and Paul Draper led the winemaking from 1971 until just a few years ago. The Monte Bello estate vineyard, high in the hills above Cupertino, is the source for their famed “Monte Bello” wine as well as many others. John Olney now heads up the Ridge winemaking team. I thought the 2021 “Jimsomare” Zinfandel was a standout, with bright and brambly red and black fruit plus touches of spice and pepper, with a lively mouthfeel and finish. The 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot – featured black cherry and currant fruit, herbs, spice, and vanilla on the nose, with a bigger texture and grippy, youthful tannins. Fine potential and should benefit from further cellaring.
Sandar & Hem Wines
Sandar & Hem is the label of Rob & Recha Bergstrom, with their first wines coming from the 2018 vintage. Rob, who’s worked at both Rhys and Mount Eden, makes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced from a number of noted Santa Cruz Mountains vineyards, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Rosé, and Cabernet Sauvignon. I enjoyed all three wines at the table, starting with the bright citrus and floral aromas and great acidity of the 2021 Mountain Winery Vineyard Chardonnay. Next was the 2021 Deerheart Vineyard Pinot Noir, with pretty floral notes plus black cherry and earth, and a chalky mineral character on the palate. The 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon showed dried herbs, currant and black cherry fruit, spice, and earth aromas, with great structure and firm tannins – this deserves time in the cellar.
Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard
Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard was established by Ken Burnap in 1975, at the Vine Hill property that he purchased from David Bruce, who had planted it in 1968. Ken retired in 2003, selling the vineyard to another vintner but selling the winery label to his assistant Jeff Emery, who continues to run the winery and make the wines. I enjoyed all three wines at the table, starting with the savory black cherry and earth notes of the 2021 Las Nietas Vineyard Pinot Noir, which had a very pleasant mouthfeel and finish. The 2021 Zayante Vineyard Zinfandel featured spicy red fruit, a touch of black pepper, and fine tannins, while the 2018 Luchessi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon had lots of herbal black currant and plum fruit plus a touch of pepper, with a lively texture and great structure.
Sante Arcangeli Family Wines
Established in 2010 by winemaker John Benedetti, Sante Arcangeli is named for John’s great-grandfather, who settled in the San Mateo coast town of Pescadero. The winery has a tasting room there and another in Aptos. The winery specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus cool-climate Syrah. I enjoyed all three wines at this table, especially the two Pinots. The 2022 Split Rail Vineyard Pinot Noir featured black cherry, flowers, spice, and earth aromas with a fine texture and finish. The 2022 Coast Grade Vineyard Pinot Noir was a contrast, with more bright and upfront red fruit and great acidity.
Thomas Fogarty Winery & Vineyards
Dr. Thomas Fogarty first planted his property in the mountains above Woodside in 1978 with original winemaker Michael Martella, and the winery was launched in 1981. Fogarty’s son Tommy now manages the winery and Nathan Kandler has been the winemaker since 2013. The main estate, at about 2,000-foot elevation, has about 30 acres of vines, mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I particularly liked two wines at their table, starting with the 2021 Windy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, with savory black cherry and tea leaf aromas, a lively mouthfeel and fine structure. The 2017 “Walker’s” Nebbiolo displayed floral red fruit, earth, and a touch of spice, with medium-light body and great structure for further aging.
Windy Oaks Estate Vineyards & Winery
Windy Oaks proprietors Jim & Judy Schultze purchased their Corralitos property in 1995, and began planting their estate vineyard the next year. Their vineyard is planted mostly to Pinot Noir, and that’s been the winery’s specialty. Jim & Judy’s son Spencer is now the Windy Oaks winemaker. All of the wines at their table were good, with two particular highlights. The 2021 “100% Whole Cluster” Estate Pinot Noir featured savory, herbal aromas along with red fruit and spice, great acidity and good structure for further cellaring. The 2018 “Special Release – Le Chaud” Estate Pinot Noir had tea leaf, red fruit, spice, earth, and a touch of vanilla/oak on the nose with a lively texture and long finish.
Woodside Vineyards
The oldest winery in San Mateo County, family-owned Woodside was founded by Bob Mullen in 1963. The winery farms over 20 separate small vineyards in the Woodside area, totaling over 47 acres. Known particularly for Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines are made by Brian Caselden. My favorite at their table was the 2018 King’s Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – a somewhat rustic old-school Cab with upfront dried herb aromas plus plum, spice, earth, and a touch of black pepper, with good structure for further aging.
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