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Overall impressions: this was another mixed flight of currently released Aussies - primarily Shiraz. There was a lot to like in this tasting - and a few not to like, as well. First, the Henschke, Penfolds RWT, and Yalumba Shirazs were all fabulous. The Kalleske Grenache is a winner as well. As expected, several of the top wines were pricey - $55 and up. But, there were also two Shirazs in my top eight that were under $20, including the Jim Barry Lodge Hill at only $12! As to disappointments, all I can wonder is what's up with Marquis Philips? Vintage or otherwise, these wines were just not up to previous standards - and the Cab was the worst of the entire flight. I suppose if one considers the price point of these wines, there should be no objection. That said, the Jim Barry delivers significantly bigger and better fruit - for Two Bucks less! |
2002 Devil's Lair Chardonnay - Margaret River. $16.99. Light lemon color. Aromas of citrus and toast - almost seems crisp in the nose. Crisp mouthfeel, slightly tart fruit, moderately long finish. Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B 2002
D'Arenberg Grenache The Derelict Vineyard - McLaren Vale.
$29.99. Medium garnet color. Nice, somewhat candied scent to
the raspberry fruit, along with some perceptable oak. Tons of raspberry
fruit on the palate, along with a toastiness that give the finish
a bit of grip. 2003
Two Hands Grenache Yesterday's Hero - Barossa Valley. $27.99.
Medium garnet color. Smoky - almost musty oak peeks out from behind
the smooth raspberry fruit in the nose. Very smooth and chewy on
the palate, big and gutsy in mouthfeel, good balance, picks up a
bit of heat on the long finish. No question, this wine is in your
face! Here's the thing - despite the oak and some apparent heat,
I really did like this Grenache - who knows, maybe just for its
apt name! 2002
Kalleske Grenache - Barossa Valley. $54.99. Dark ruby
garnet color. Loaded with clove, licorice and vanilla to accent
its big raspberry and dark cherry nose, the combination of fruit,
spices and toast is intoxicating. In fact, there's almost a brandied
fruitcake quality to the nose. Off-sweet mouthfeel, lots of smooth
- almost jammy fruit, and a very long finish, and fascinating aftertaste.
This was being touted as the next big thing. Just might be. Of course
they'll need a nickname for it. 2001
Peter Lehman Cabernet Sauvignon - Barossa. $13.99. Medium-dark
ruby garnet color. Touches of oak and herbal qualities seem to be
standing in for the aroma of fruit. Fairly weak on the palate, this
seems somewhat underfilled, rather than just 'claret style.' Seems
more like a "bulk wine" effort. 2001
Red House Shiraz/Grenache - McLaren Vale. $13.99. Medium
dark garnet color. 50/50 blend. Initially overripe nose settles
down a bit with some air, gaining some nice spiced red and black
fruit. A bit pinched and underfilled in mouthfeel, with good balance
and finish. The fruit's in there - somewhere, there just needs to
be more of it. 2003
Two Hands Shiraz/Grenache Brave Faces - Barossa Valley .
$24.99. Dark ruby color. 65/35 blend. Lovely floral, peach scent
to the spicy nose (Viognier?). Plenty of dark fruit, with a sweet-sour
candy note, smooth texture, very nice balance, and long slightly
tannic finish. Nice stuff! 2002
D'Arenberg Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre Ironston Pressings
- McLaren Vale. $51.99. Dark ruby-garnet color. Beautiful nose
of red and black fruits, cinnamon, and semi-sweet chocolate. Lots
of off-sweet dark fruit, smooth yet clingy mouthfeel, and very long
finish. Yep, there's oak in here - but it's very nicely handled.
2003
Marquis Philips Merlot - So. Eastern Australia. $13.99.
Medium dark ruby garnet color. Nose of sweet creamy cassis - a bit
cloying. A bit thin on the palate, correct flavors, but too few
of them. Uninspiring! 2003
Marquis Philips Cabernet Sauvignon - So. Eastern Australia. $13.99.
Medium dark garnet ruby color. A nose that's overripe, cooked, tea-like,
thin, and musty. Moderate body, weak fruit, just a bit of flavor.
Not sure what went wrong here - bottle, vintage, effort - who knows.
An annoying little wine, nonetheless. 2003
Marquis Philips Sarah's Blend - So. Eastern Australia. $13.99.
Medium garnet ruby color. Nice spicy dark fruit in the nose. Spicy
on the palate as well, with smooth even coverage, nice balance,
and reasonably long finish. This Shiraz/Cab/Merlot blend was definitely
the best MP wine in the flight. 2003
Marquis Philips Shiraz - So. Eastern Australia. $13.99. Dark
ruby color. Nose of dark fruit, clove, bubblegum, and old meat.
Cloying mouthfeel of candied flavors, with some clove and oak. What,
Shiraz doesn't live here anymore?
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2002 Jim Barry Shiraz The Lodge Hill - Clare Valley. $11.99. Dark ruby garnet color. Seductive nose of clove-scented blackberry, with just a touch of toast and coffee. Slightly soft and sweet in mouthfeel, with plenty of fruit, very nice balance, and long smooth tasty finish. Excellent value! Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A- 2002
Penfolds Shiraz Bin 28 - So. Australia. $15.99. Dark
ruby garnet color. Nose of spicy dark fruit, with hints of vanilla
and toast. Nice smooth mouthfeel, lots of dark fruit, good balance,
and long finish. 2003
Two Hands Shiraz Angel's Share - Barossa Valley. $19.99.
Very dark ruby-garnet color. Beautiful nose - almost like blackberry
pie, with touches of anise and toast. Rich and chewy mouthfeel,
excellent balance and long finish. This wine surprised me, and does
not appear to have been a 'vintage victim.' 2002
Battely Shiraz - Victoria. $39.99. Dark ruby garnet color. Herbaceous
leafy qualities seem to dominate the fruit aromas in this wine.
Swirling did clear it off a bit, but it still seemed to return.
Aside from that, the blackberry scent was nicely accented by minerals
and iron or iodine. Off-sweet mouthfeel, very good balance, and
long finish. 2001
Primo Estate Shiraz Joseph Angel Gully - McLaren Vale. $35.99.
Medium dark garnet color. Beautiful nose of black fruit, pepper,
cake spices, toast, and a bit of grilled meat. Considering the density
of the nose, the mouthfeel was slightly lighter than expected. Well
balanced, round, and a bit soft on the palate, the fruit takes center
stage here,and remains smooth throughout the long finish. 2001
Henschke Shiraz Mount Edelstone - Eden Valley. $59.99.
Dark ruby garnet in color. Fabulous nose of dark berry, molasses,
minerals, toast, and cake spices. Amazing! Perfectly balanced mouthfeel
- everything seems in harmony here, with smooth flavorful fruit,
fine-grained tannins, and lengthy finish. Like the Primo before
it, this wine trades brawn for beauty. 2001
Penfolds Shiraz RWT - Barossa Valley. $69.99. Very dark
ruby color. Notes of clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg add to the black
fruit in the nose. Not huge on the palate, but lots of fruit, very
well-balanced, smooth and seductive flavors and finish. 1999
Yalumba Shiraz The Octavius - Barossa. $68.99. Medium
dark garnet color. A slight late harvest/late picked quality seems
apparent in the nose, but aside from any sweetness, the nose is
a veritable kitchen cabinet of aromas. Blackberry compote, kalamata
olive, balsamic vinegar, cake spices, with a bit of havarti cheese
thrown in. Full and rich on the palate, off-sweet freshly macerated
fruit, excellent balance, very long off-sweet finish. Wow! |
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© 1993 - 2004, Eric Anderson - All rights reserved |