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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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- Iron
Horse Vnyds Alexander Valley Viognier (14.4%; 900cs) '99:
Light gold color; fragrant pear/ peach/Viognier aromatic
nose; soft/lush spicy/pear/peach/Viognier very attractive
flavor; med.long soft/lush pear/peach/Viognier finish; very
nice lush correct Viognier.
- Sierra
Vista ElDorado Viognier (13.5%) '99: Med.light gold
color; light pungent/oaked bit earthy low-key pear/Viognier
nose; tart/brisk very spicy low-key/Viognier/pear light
pungent rather rich/textured flavor; very tart/brisk spicy
light pear/Viognier light pungent/oak earthy slight citrusy
finish; very interesting Viognier w/ a bracing acidity but
still a rich texture to it.
- Villa
Mt.Eden Calif Syrah (13.5%) '98: Med.light color; rather
pencilly/toasty/oaked little Syrah fruit nose; tart rather
herbal light Syrah/blackberry light pungent/pencilly/oak
flavor; short light/thin some herbal weak blackberry/Syrah
light toasty finish w/ little tannins; rather dull &
uninspired; tastes like SanBernabe Syrah. No bargin at $10.00
- Fetzer
Vnyds Calif Syrah (13.0%) '98: Light color; pleasant
cherry/fruity light licorice Pinot-like nose; very light
simple cherry/Pinot-like light oak flavor; med.short light
cherry/Pinot finish w/ no tannins; pleasant/dull red w/
no Syrah character. Tastes like a Syrah made by a SunDial
producer. No bargin at $9.00
- Riverside
by Foppiano Syrah (13.5%) '97: Med.light color; simple
cherry/berry/fruity some Am.oaked rather Zin-like nose;
soft some Am.oaked cherry/berry/simple fruity flavor; short
light Am.oaked cherry/fruity/earthy finish w/ no tannins;
dullsvillle; tastes like a Syrah made by a Zin producer.
No bargin at $9.00
- Valley
of the Moon Sonoma County Syrah (13.5%) '97: Med.dark
color; bit pungent/bretty/earthy low fruit nose; very sour
very bretty little Syrah fruit dull flavor; med.long very
sour rather bretty no fruit finish w/ light tannins; this
is Syrah??? Stupid price at $23.00
- Qupe
Central Coast Syrah (13.5%) '99: Med.color; pleasant
blackberry/Syrah slight pungent/ earthy/funky nose; tart
light blackberry/Syrah/fruity slight earthy/funky flavor;
med.long light blackberry/Syrah bit earthy/funky finish
w/ light tannins; attractive good-drinking red w/ some Syrah
character that will probably put on weight.
- Qupe
Central Coast Syrah (SFW & CFiesta label; 13%) '99:
No essential difference that I could pick up.
- Ravenswood
Sonoma County Icon Red Wine (74% Syrah, 17% Grenache, 9%
Mourvedre; 14.2%) '97: Very dark color; some funky/bretty
pungent/oaked perfumed some blackberry/strawberry nose;
soft rather funky/Rhonish/bit unclean some pencilly/yoasty/oak
light blackberry flavor; med.long some funky/Rhonish/bretty
light blackberry some pungent/toasty/oak finish w/ some
tanins; interesting wine but just that.
- Sierra
Vista El Dorado Syrah Red Rock Ridge (12.5%) '98: Med.drak
color; rather earthy/spicy/ Rhonish bit pungent/toasted/oak
light blackberry nose; very tart almost shrill earthy/mushroomy
some pungent/toasty/oak low fruit flavor; med.long very
sharp/tart light earthy/funky some toasty/pungent/oak finish
w/ some tannins; interesting ElDorado Syrah but an akmost
shrill attack on the palate from the acidity.
- E.Guigal
Chateauneuf du Pape (13.5%) '98: Med.dark color; rather
dusty/earthy spicy/strawberry/ clean little roasted nose;
tart rather dusty/earthy some spicy/peppery low fruit light
roasted/CdP flavor; med.long earthy/dusty light spicy/peppery
finish w/ some tannins; pleasant CdP but expected lot more
from a '98.
- Qupe
Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Syrah (13.5%)
'98: Dark color; very strong toasty/ pungent/smokey/oaked
light blackberry/blueberry/Syrah nose; strong pungent/toasty/Fr.oak
bit roasted/smokey low blueberry/Syrah flavor; long toasty/pencilly/Fr.oak/cocoa
light roasted light blackberry/Syrah finish w/ some tannins;
lots of pungent Fr.oak but a bit light on the palate and
not the fruit it's had in the past.
- Omrah
Shiraz (53% Western Australia, 47% McLarenVale; 13.5%) '98:
Very dark color; slight bretty rather minty/menthol/mushroomy/earthy
pencilly/oaked low fruit nose; tart earthy/licorice/ plummy/mushroomy
bit minty/menthol/oak low fruit flavor; long earthy/mushroomy/plummy
some menthol/oak finish w/ some tannins; not a typical Oz
fruit bomb, interesting, needs several yrs age. Fairly priced
at $19.50
- Lagier-Meredith
Napa Valley Mt.Veeder Syrah (14.3%; Unfltrd) '98: Black
color; beautiful/complex toasted/carroway/licorice very
pungent some roasted very peppery very spicy cocoa strong
blackberry/Syrah nose; huge/tannic very spicy very cracked
black pepper dusty/old vines (they're not) some toasty/charred/pungent/Fr.oak
very blackberry/Syrah complex flavor; very long very tannic
very peppery/black pepper strong toasty/Fr.oak/pungent some
roasted/coffee dusty strong blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
complex finish w/ ample tannins; needs age; incredible Syrah.
- HortonVnyds
Cotes d'Orange Orange Cnty Virginia (13.1%) Grenache/ Mourvedre/Carignane/
TintaCao/ Viognier '98: Med.slight browning color; rather
roasted/NorthernRhone smokey/pungent bit herbal/green olive
complex nose; tart green olive/smokey/pungent toasty/Fr.oak/Rhonish
spicy flavor; long light spicy herbal/green olive/Rhonish
complex finish w/ light tannins; very interesting rather
Rhone-style red. Steve's mystery wine
- Jaboulet
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Thalabert '94: Med.color; rather
aged/tired/old wine bit musty little fruit some cheesy/meaty
complex (?) nose; bit oxidized/tired/dried out old-Zin-
like flavor; a tired old wine expired before its time. Kevin&Peggy's
(she says Kevin's!!) mystery wine.
- Boisrenaud
Chateauneuf du Pape '98: Dark color; rather spicy/minty/oaked
bit volatile cinammon&cloves slight medicinal/adhesive
tape nose; soft rather spicy/cinammon/cloves hard/ tannic
earthy some raosted/coffee low fruit flavor; med.long rather
tannic earthy/oaked/ pungent bit roasted low fruit earthy
finish w/ fair tannins; needs several yrs; very good but
not killer CdP. $32.00
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And
the usual cerebreal pronouncements from the bloody pulpit:
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Whadda surprise.... low-end Syrahs taste like.... low-end
wines. Maybe the magic is gone from the variety. Maybe all
we have to look forward to now is.... SutterHome WhiteSyrah??
Arrrgh.... the thought of it all!!
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Qupe CentralCoast Syrah '99: This wine is traditionally
released first in NewMexico for the SantaFe Wine&Chile
Fiesta, with a special Fiesta label; a little too-early
a release IMHO. The last 3 vintages have seemed rather dilute
& washed out & lots of hot-climate character (French
Camp/Paso Syrah and Zin&Carignane from old-vine Lodi
stuff); and then puts on weight over the next 2-3 months.
I fully expect that to occur with this '99 version. The
Fiesta-label and the regular Qupe label are supposedly the
identical wines. Knowing this, I was struggling to find
a difference in the two, but was unable to. The Fiesta label
was served as a mystery wine, beside the regular label,
to the rest of my tasting group. Many (but not all) were
finding differences in the two wines. Ahhhhhh, the humbling
experience of blind tastings. Hate 'em!! Up until the '96
vintage, this was one of my very favorite Syrahs, at a great
price. Partly in order to keep the price so reasonable,
Bob has been using less SantaBarbara Syrah in it and blending
Paso Syrah (French Camp, on far eastside... owned by the
Millers who also own Bien Nacido) and some wonderful old-vine
Lodi Zin and Carignane. It has perturbed the purity of Syrah
in the wine and moved it towards more of a Cote-du-Rhone-like
Syrah. Still, nonetheless, mighty fine drinking. At a good
price.
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Ravenswood Icon: This is the Ravenswood CdP blend; roughly
the 3rd edition I believe. I keep expecting Joel to hit
a home run on this wine one of these times. Alas, the '97
is not it. Good wine, but not the killer I keep hoping for.
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Qupe Hillside '98: I have followed this wine from the very
start. It has always been one of my very favorite Calif
Syrahs. This yr's version seems a bit on the light/dilute
side and not the fruit to go along w/ all the oak that it's
had in the past. It's good Syrah, but not quite up to my
expectations. Bought a few btls anyway to follow.
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Lagier-Meredith Syrah: I've followed the Lagier-Meredith
wines from the very start (this is the start!!). I first
started picking up rumblings about this wine from a number
of folks on WCWN, so bought a few btls, sight unseen. Gambled
and one BIG TIME on this one. There have been two Calif
Syrahs of the '98 vintage I've been blown away by; this
one and the Fallia-Jordan. It reminds me a bit of the JadeMtn
ParrasVnyd (also Mt.Veeder) Syrahs but w/ much more oomph
and complexity. Obviously absolutely first-rate Syrah grapes
coupled w/ very talented winemaking. Killer killer Syrah.
It'll be fun following this wine long into the future. Alas,
sold out at the winery but floor-stacked at Corti Bros.
TomHill
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© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
No original material may be reproduced without written consent
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