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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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New California Red Wines - December 5, 2001
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- The
Ojai Vineyard Ojai White Calif TW (13.5%) NV: Med.gold
color, attractive melony/Chard bit floral/ spicy light/oaked
nose; tart light/pencilly/oaked med.lush melony/Chard some
spicy/floral/Viognier flavor; med.long Chard/melony finish;
attractive pleasant Chard w/ nice perfume character; very
good for the price. $12.00
- The
Ojai Vineyard Ojai Red Calif TW (14.0%) NV: Med.color;
rather dusty bit blackberry/Syrah/black cherry/ Pinot some
toasty/oak attractive nose; slight bretty bit tart/lean
dusty some blackberry/Syrah light pungent/toasty flavor;
med.short tart/dusty bit blackberry/Syrah/black cherry finish
w/ light tannins; simple drinkable red a bit short on fruit.
- Andrew
Murray Vineyards Central Coast Tous Les Jours Syrah (13.5%)
2000: Med.color; attractive blackberry/ Syrah bit dusty/earthy/old-vine
bit perfumed talc/chocolaty nose; tart some earthy/dusty
Carignane/ black cherry some blackberry/Syrah light toasty/oak
flavor; med.long dusty/earthy some blackberry/ Syrah finish
w/ light tannins; the Carignane gives it a strong earthy/dusty
character; pleasant Cote du Rhone-style wine; one of the
better Tous Les Jours. Bit pricy at $16.00.
- Babcock
Santa Barbara County Syrah (13.7%; Optimum Quad Possum)
2000: Med.dark color; deeper rich blackberry/Syrah bit
simple very light oak nose; soft light simple blueberry/Syrah
slight tannic flavor; med.short simple blackberry/blueberry/Syrah
light oak finish w/ a bit of tannins; a rather simple/pleasant
Syrah; not worth $22.00
- Delectus
Mendocino Syrah (Unfltrd; 13.5%) 1998: Med.color; classic
tomatoey/Mendocino little Syrah more Zin-like slight earthy
bit simple nose; tart pungent/toasty/oaked bit tomatoey
slightly unclean little Syrah flavor; med. clunky/Syrah
rather pungent/charred/oak finish w/ little tannins; mostly
Mendocino/Zin in character w/ litle Syrah character; not
worth $33.00.
- Dehlinger
EastFace Syrah Russian River Valley (EB; 14.5%) 1998: Med.dark
color; beautiful/fragrant some blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
perfumy/perfumed talc complex/pencilly nose; tart very spicy/
blackberry/Syrah light pencilly/Fr.oak very spicy/perfumed
flavor; very long spicy/pencilly/Fr.oak fragrant/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
slight gamey finish w/ some tannins; needs a yr or two;
lots of Syrah character but very Dehlinger in style; beautiful/fragrant
nose but not quite the punch on the palate I expected.
- Domaine
Chandon Carneros Pinot Meunier (14.4%) 1999: Light color;
attractive/fruity bright cherry/ fragrant nose; tart cherry/black
cherry simple/fruity light oaked bit earthy flavor; med.short
simple cherry/earthy light oaked finish w/ little tannins;
rather simple and not nearly as good as the '97. Way overpriced
at $28.00
- Chalone
Vineyard Chalone PN (#6992 of 76,927; 14.2%) 1999: Light
color; some Burgundian/toasty some cherry/Pinot/fruity bit
simple nose; tart simple bright cherry/Pinot light Burgundian/toasty/oak
flavor; med. tart cherry light toasty/oak finish w/ light
tannins; disapponiting pleasant/simple Pinot but way
overpriced at $32.00.
- failla-jordan
Sonoma Coast PN (13.5%) 1999: Med.dark color; beautiful
pungent/toasty/oaked very spicy/blueberry perfumed/aromatic/complex
rather Burgundian nose; tart/rich very Burgundian very spicy
floral complex pungent toasty/Fr.oak very black cherry/Pinot/perfumed
bit tannic flavor; very long very spicy floral/violets/black
cherry/Pinot toasty/Burgundian bright/spicy finish w/ some
tannins; needs several yrs; a dead-ringer for a great Burgundy;
killer Pinot.
- Sine
Qua Non OX Oregon PN Shea Vineyard (14%) 1999: Med.dark
color; lovely/beautiful very aromatic/ perfumed bright/Oregon/cherry/black
cherry light pungent/oak nose; tart very bright/cherry/Pinot/
black cherry very spicy light/pungent/Fr.oak perfumed/aromatic
flavor; very long bit tannic bright/ spicy/cherry/black
cherry light pungent/oak finish; needs a few yrs; a lovely
Pinot w/ lots of purity of Oregon fruit.
- Dehlinger
Gold Ridge Vineyard PN Russian River Valley (EB; 14.3%)
1999: Med.light color; beautiful/fragrant/ perfumed
bright cherry/floral very Burgundian some pencilly/Fr.oak
complex nose; tart very bright/ cherry/black cherry very
floral very spicy violets very Burgundian/pencilly flavor;
very long/ lingering very floral very spicy bright/cherry/Pinot
finish w/ light tannins; a terrific Pinot loaded w/ aromatics
and very balanced; terrific drinking.
- The
Ojai Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard PN (14.5%)
1999: Med.dark color; deep toasty/Fr.oak
slight herbal/perfumed black cherry/Pinot gamey/earthy some
pungent/smokey nose; big/rich/tannic hard some gamey/herbal/black
cherry some toasty/pungent/oak flavor; long rather tannic
strong black cherry light herbal toasty/pungent/Fr.oak finish;
needs 2-5 yrs; a big rich powerful Pinot; less herbal &
more black cherry/Pinot than previous Pisonis; should be
a good one w/ age.
- Caernarvon
Cellars SanLucas Monterey County PN (13.7%) 1999: Light
color; aromatic/fragrant slight VA/ lift some earthy/dusty
spicy/Pinot/earthy celery seed/spicy bit Fr.oaked nose;
tart some herbal/ licorice/spicy light pungent/oaked bit
dusty flavor; med.long light herbal/pungent/dusty/earthy
some black cherry/plummy/licorice light oak finish w/ soft
tannins; nicely done interesting Monterey Pinot; big soft
plummy & drinkable.
- Caernarvon
Cellars SanLucas Cuvee Frank Zin (14.5%) 1999: Med.color;
deeper dusty black cherry/ boysenberry quite spicy light
herbal/plummy light toasty/oak nose; soft/rich plummy/black
cherry slight boysenberry some spicy very interesting flavor;
long soft plummy/black cherry light toasty/ oaked light
herbal/spicy finish w/ light tannins; almost more like Pinot
than Zin.
- Ridge
Calif Zin LatePicked Nervo (92% Zin, 8% PS; 16.2%; 38 brls;
SaH: 29.8%; RS: 0.22%) 1999: Very dark color; very ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Zin
very vanilla/oaked very jammy/blackberry rather Paso Robles-like
chocolaty nose; off-dry very ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/
chocolaty/jammy/grapey some spicy vanilla/Am.oaked flavor;
med.long very ripe jammy/blackberry/ chocolaty some vanilla/oaked
finish w/ light tannins; pushing the levels of ripeness
but doesn't overstep into the over-ripe/raisened level.
- Saintsbury
Carneros Pinot Noir Reserve 1995: Med.light color; strong
oaked some black cherry/plummy almost Zin-like slight horsecollar/bretty/tobaccoy
bit charred/toasty/pungent some complex nose; tart rather
pencilly/Burgundian/oak some black cherry Zin-like floral/Pinot
flavor; light/elegant developed some floral/black cherry
some toasty/charred/Fr.oak finish w/ light tannins; nicely
done Pinot; needs to be drunk up. Larry's mystery wine.
- Rosemont
Balmoral Syrah McLaren Valley 1992: Very dark/black
color; slight earthy/barnyardy/funky blackberry/licorice/ripe/Syrah
some charred/vanilla/Bourbon/Am.oaked bit complex nose;
soft very strong Bourbon/vanilla/Am.oaked ratherr licorice/blackberry/Syrah
bit tannic flavor; very long strong Am.oak/vanilla/Bourbon
some licorice/blackberry/Syrah finish w/ drying/hard tannins;
a terrific nose loaded w/ Am.oak but seems to be drying
out on the palate a bit. Howard&Rhoda's mystery wine.
And
then to celebrate the return of Mike&Debbie Payne from
LasVegas to the real world; we had a few stickies from Steve
Sterbenz:
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Paumanok NorthFork of LongIsland Riesling Late Harvest
(11.3%; RS: 9.4%; SaH: 31Brix) 1998: Dark gold color;
slightly oxidized intense grapey/perfumed bit VA very figgy/candied
nose; tart very ripe very grapey very caramelized/figgy/pineapply
some apricotty/botrytis complex sweet flavor; sweet very
caramelized/figgy slightly hot/volatile very grapy some
apricotty finish; lots of overripe grapey/caramel/fig character;
interesting dessert wine.
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Chateay d'Yquem Lur-Saluces Sauternes (13.5%) 1988:
Med.gold color; intense toasty/coconutty very botrytis/peachy/apricotty/creme
brulee/flan very oaked complex nose; very tart very sweet
creme brulee/flan/apricotty/peachy very coconutty/coconut
cream pie toasty/oak complex flavor; extremely long/lingering
creme brulee/flan toasted coconut/oak finish; incredible
dessert wine that'll go for another 20-30 yrs.
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And
the usual flotsam & jetsam from the bloody pulpit:
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Optimum Quad Possum: This is a fine-print notation that
Brian Babcock puts on some of his labels. My understanding
is that it refers to the four dead possums he tosses into
each fermenting vat in order to optimize the protein content
of the must, making the wines much easier to clarify. His
wines have really been on a roll the last few yrs, so it
must be working.
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Caernarvon Cellars: This is the new effort of Larry Roberts
(Dr.Fermento). He makes his wine in leased space up at HiddenMtnRanch.
I've followed Larry's wines from the very start, first as
a home winemaker, then his short stint at Rio Secco
Cellars. After a two year absence from the commercial scene,
he's now back as Caernarvon, making wines just as good as
ever. I hope he'll be around a whole lot longer this time.
Very good winemaker, two very good wines. The Zin I found
particularly interesting. You don't often see Zinfandel
from Southern Monterey County (at least, not admitted
to on the label!). This vnyd is just over the boundary of
SanLuisObispo/Monterey counties. It's a growing area I think
should be explored more. Some really huge vnyds in that
area.
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failla-jordan: This is the first Pinot I've had from Ehren
Jordan & his wife. The Syrahs have been stunning. This
Pinot is right up there with them.
TomHill
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© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
No original material may be reproduced without written consent
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