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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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French Rhones - April 10, 2002
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- Vacheron-Ponizon
le Clos du Caillou Vielles Vignes Cote du Rhone (13.5%)
1999: Med.color; slight bretty/earthy some strawberry/Grenache
pleasant nose; soft slight metallic some bretty/earthy fairly
attractive strawberry/Grenache/fruity flavor; med. fruity/Grenache
slight earthy/dusty finish w/ little tannins; pleasant Cote
du Rhone but just that; better than 2000, not up to past
vintages.
- Domaines
Bour Domaine de Grangeneuve Coteaux-du-Tricastin Cuvee Vielles
Vignes (Syrah/ Grenache planted in 1964; 13.5%)
1999: Med.dark color; deep blackberry/strawberry rather
spicy clean nose; fairly spicy/candied very strawberry/Grenache
almost sweetish flavor; med.long deeper spicy Grenache/candied
sweetish flavor w/ light tannins in the med.short finish;
pleasant simple little Cote du Rhone.
- Domaine
de Grangeneuve Coteaux-du-Tricastin GrandCuvee Elevee en
Futs de Chene (Syrah/ Grenache planted in 1964; 13%)
1998: Med.dark color; attractive spicy/blackberry/Syrah
bit roasted/ Rhonish slight oaked nose; soft light/oak slight
roasted/pungent Grenache/strawberry some spicy flavor; med.long
bit oaked bit roasted pleasant Grenache/strawberry finish
w/ light tannins; somewhat better Cote du Rhone.
- Domaine
de Grangeneuve Coteaux-du-Tricastin Cuvee de la Truffiere
(Syrah planted in 1964; 2000 cs; 13%) 1998: Dark
color; deeper blackberry/Syrah some smokey/roasted bit licorice
some toasty/oak nose; bigger/richer some blackberry/Syrah
light roasted/toasty pungent flavor; med.long bit tannic
light blackberry/Syrah slight toasty/oak finish; best of
the three but underwhelming.
- Michele
Aubery-Laurent Les Hauts de Gramenon Vinsobres Cote du Rhone-Villages
(13.5%) 2000: Med.color; badly corked/musty slight strawberry/Grenache
nose; sweetish grapey/Grenache rather musty/corked flavor;
too corked to tell anything.
- Philippe
et Michele Laurent Le Gramenon Cote du Rhone (13%)
2000: Med.light color; light strawberry/Grenache simple
nose; rather grapey/whole-berry fermentation/carbonic maceration
nose; soft grapey/whole- berry/fruity somewhat Beaujolais-like
slight earthy flavor; med.short grapey/whole-berry finish
w/ little tannins; tastes like Beaujolais from the Rhone;
uninspiring.
- Mas
Grand Plagniol Costieres de Nimes (Syrah; 13.5%) Cyril
Mares 1999: Very dark color; deep blackberry/Syrah/plummy
bit dusty/pungent spicy nose; soft very ripe/Syrah/blackberry/plummy
bit bretty/horsecollar flavor; long very spicy plummy/Syrah/blackberry
finish w/ light tannins; much more like an EastSide Paso
Syrah than a Rhone; nice wine but just that; fair price.
$14.00
- Domaine
St.Anne Cote du Rhone-Villages (13%) 1999: Med.color;
slight corked/musty little fruit supressed nose; weak bit
tart/metallic some musty/corked flavor; nothing here folks.
- Domaine
Richaud Cairanne Cote du Rhone-V (13%) 2000: Dark color;
very CdP-like meaty loads of black fruit some roasted/earthy/gamey
nose; soft off-dry very ripe/jammy/plummy very fruity/strawberry/berry/
grapey spicy flavor; med.long grapey/plummy/ripe light roasted/gamey
finish w/ light tannins; lots of very ripe/grapey some Rhonish
character; fairly priced at $17.00 .
- Frederic
& Francois Alary Domaines de l'Oratoire St.Martin
Cairanne Cote du Rhone-V (13.5%) 1999: Very dark color;
rich deep intense blackberry/Syrah rather minty/menthol/oak
rather Oz-like ripe nose; soft rich blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
some menthol clean/ripe flavor; very long soft/fat intense
blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah/grapey/lush finish w/ light
tannins; big rich lush/grapey rather Oz/Calif-style w/ little
Rhone character; nice wine at $18.00
- Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard
Cairanne La Perdenaille (14%) 1999: Dark color; strong
new Fr.oak/toasty spicy strong berry/fruit Calif/international
nose; tart strong new Fr.oak/toasty pungent some blak cherry/blackberry
no Rhone flavor; med. bit hot/alcoholic some blackberry/black
cherry strong Fr.oaked/toasty finish w/ light tannins; plenty
of new oak in a modern winemaking style but no Rhone character
and not enough fruit for the oak. Disappointing. $22.00
- Corbieres
du Boncaillou Corbieres (50% Carignane, 25% Grenache,
25% Syrah; 12.5%) 1999: Med.color; rather earthy/black cherry
very spicy dusty/old vines slight herbal very spicy/exotic
perfumed nose; bit thin/lean/hard very spicy/exotic dusty/old
vines very cherry/black cherry perfumey flavor; very long/lingering
exotic very spicy cherry/bright/black cherry finish w/ some
tannins; a bit hard/ lean on the palate but a very exotic
spiciness to this wine. Lovely rendition of Carignan. $33.00
- Domaine
de Fauterie Cornas (13.5%) Sylvain Bernard 1999: Med.dark
color; very green olive/Syrah very cracked black pepper
toasty/roasted/smokey complex Rhonish nose; rather thin/lean
very green olive/ Syrah slight roasted/coffee/pungent flavor;
med. thin/lean very green olive some roasted/coffee finish
w/ light tannins; a beautiful Northern Rhone nose but a
bit too thin/lean on the palate; many disliked the strong
green olive character. Disappointing.
- Eric
& Joel Durand Cornas (13.5%) 1998: Very dark color;
some bretty/unclean very blackberry/Syrah somewhat gamey/meaty
light roasted nose; soft ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
very Calif-style slight mocha/roasted flavor; soft/fat med.long
very ripe/blackberry/boysenberry lush slight roasted/ mocha
finish w/ light tannins; soft ripe Calif-style Syrah. Not
worth price $35.00
- Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard
Crozes-Hermitage Les Palignons (12.5%) 1999: Very dark
color; very strong mocha/coffee very toasty/Fr.oak/pungent
bit roasted/mocha/chocolaty very ripe nose; soft/round/lush
berry/Syrah loads of toasty/new/Fr.oak slight roasted/NorthernRhone
flavor; med.short very toasty/ new/Fr.oak slight roasted
light blackberry/Syrah finish; loads of new Fr.oak in a
modern/Calif winemaking style; little NorthernRhone character.
Disappointing.
- Dry
Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Old Vines Zinfandel (14.5%)
1992:Med.light color; rather old/tired old Bordeauxsome
tobaccoy/complex nose; off-dry/sweetish tobaccoy very ripe
slight raspberry bit tired flavor; med. tobaccoy/cedary/old
Bordeaux rather ripe bit raspberry finish w/ light tannins;
getting a bit gray around the edges & seems old before
its time. John's mystery wine.
- Jacob
Franklin Napa Valley Petite Sirah Hayne Vineyard (8
brls; 15.6%) 2000: Black color; very intense Fr.oak/ toasty
very intense coffee/mocha exotic some licorice/black cherry/boysenberry
cough syrup very spicy/peppery perfumey nose; very soft/fat/flabby
intense mocha/coffee/toasty/Fr.oak some blackberry/peppery
flavor; very long very soft/flabby some black cherry/peppery
loads of smokey/ mocha/coffee/Fr,oak finish w/ some tannins;
a PS loaded w/ new Fr.oak exotic character but very much
lacking tannins & structure for aging. Not worth the
$65.00.
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And
the usual stuff from the bloody pulpit: |
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The focus on this tasting was mostly on lesser Rhones. And
lesser, indeed, they were. A pretty uninspiring set of Rhones.
At any price. I can think of dozens of Calif wines in the
$12-$18 price range I'd rather drink than these.
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Cuilleron-gaillard-Villard wines: This Gang of Three has
a reputation for making great Condrieu and Cote-Rotie. I
was expecting these to be excellent wines from good grapes
of a lesser region. Instead, they tasted of international/modern
winemaking methods applied to very lesser grapes. The wines
were disappointing. The reasonable prices shoulda been the
tip-off.
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JacobFranklin PS: This very limited PS is made by Ray Coursen
Elyse Winery fame. The '98 was a terrific PS, one of the
better Napa Valley versions I've had. The '99 was also pretty
good. But this 2000 version is much too soft & flabby
on the palate for my tastes. Jacob is Ray & Nancy's
young son; whilst Elyse is their daughter.
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Copyright
© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
No original material may be reproduced without written consent
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