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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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Some New Syrahs - April 24, 2002
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Alban Vineyards Central Coast Viognier (14.5%) 2000:
Med.gold color; strong toasty/pungent/ smokey/Fr.oak some
reduced/H2S/stinky some fragrant/pear/Viognier nose; soft/lush/round
rather toasty/Fr.oak some pear/Viognier flavor; long soft/round/lush
rather toasty/charred/ Fr.oaked light pear/Viognier finish;
a bit on the stinky side and a hole-in-the-middle on the
palate; much prefer the brsik acidity of John's Estate Viognier;
bit diasppointing.
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Failla Jordan Viognier Alban Vineyard Edna Valley (14.8%)
2000:
Med.dark gold color; strong/toasty/ Fr.oak beautiful/perfumed
pear/peach/Viognier tobaccoy very fragrant nose; tart strong
toasty/charred/Fr.oak/pungent/vanilla very strong peachg/pear/Viognier
flavor; very long/ lingering intense toasty/charred/tobaccoy/Fr.oak
intense pear/peach/Viognier/flowery finish; some people
thought the oak excessive but I thought the fruit intensity
underneath was well enough to pull it off; I'd describe
it as a DollyParton Viognier made in the style of PaulBunyan.
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Dehlinger Goldridge Vineyard Syrah Russian River Valley
(EB; 14.0%) 1999:
Med.dark color; very fragrant ripe berry/blackberry/Syrah/chocolaty
perfumed/pencilly/oak rather gamey/meaty very spicy/ aromatic
nose; tart interesting/complex gamey/raw meat very spicy/aromatic
pungent elegant bright berry/Syrah flavor; med.long elegant
spicy/aromatic some gamey/meaty pencilly/Fr.oak berry/blackberry/Syrah
finish w/ light tannins; beautiful/perfumed aromatics and
smooth/ elegant/balanced on the palate.
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Neyers Napa Valley Syrah Hudson Vineyard (14.1%)
2000: Very dark color; bit herbal/earthy slight
green olive/Syrah pungent/Carneros/earthy toasty/Fr.oak
rather roasted/pungent very Graillot-like complex espresso
nose; soft/rich/lush gamey/roasted/espresso/complex peppery
green olive/Syrah/blackberry toasty/smokey/Fr.oaked quite
NorthernRhone flavor; very long some tannic green olive/Syrah/peppery/roasted/coffee
gamey/peppery/spicy some blackberry complex finish w/ some
tannins; needs several yrs; best Nyers Syrah yet; terrific.
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J.L.Chave Selection St. Joseph Offerus (12.5%) 2000:
Dark color; rather earthy/dusty light roasted bit gamey/spicy/NorthernRhone
some berry/Syrah nose; soft/forward/lush some roasted/ NorthernRhone
bit green olive light toasty/oak flavor; very long/forward
roasted/coffee some berry/Syrah slight green olive finish
w/ light tannins; attractive/forward NorthernRhone with
very nice aromatics but a bit lacking in structure; needs
a yr perhaps. Good value at $21.00
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Alain Graillot St.Joseph (13%) 2000:
Med.dark color; deeper more roasted/NorthernRhone
slight bretty bit closed some pungent/burnt/charred/oak
some complex nose; tarter/leaner bit closed some roasted/NorthernRhone
low fruit flavor; med.long bit hard/lean some roasted/NR
bit charred/toasty/burnt/oak finish w/ light tannins; a
nice Graillot but not quite the depth & intensity I
expected.
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Novy Sonoma County Syrah (14.5%) 2000:
Dark color; very strong/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah some
gamey/meaty coffee/mocha some complex nose; soft/rich/round/lush
mocha/coffee toasty/ roasted/oak strong spicy/blackberry/Syrah
flavor; med.long spicy blackberry/boysenberry/ Syrah bit
toasty/oak mocha/coffee chocolaty finish w/ light tannins;
loaded w/ pure/ripe blackberry/Syrah character and nice
roasted/mocha character; great wine for this price. $17.00
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Novy Napa Valley Syrah (15.1%) 2000: Med.dark
color; riper bright berry/licorice slight aromatic/volatile
almost Zin-like spicy oaked nose; soft bit tannic/hard slight
volatile/ perfumed bright berry/spicy/raspberry light toasty/oak
flavor; med. bright berry/blackberry/ spicy bit lean/tannic
finish w/ some tannins; not the intensity of Syrah character
as in the Sonoma; more like a Napa Valley Zin than
Syrah; nice spicy Zin-like red. Great price.$18.00
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Novy Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah (14.5%) 2000:
Very dark/near black color; lovely/complex bit herbal very
spicy perfumed/licorice/peppery ripe/blackberry/Syrah very
aromatic/ perfumed nose; tart bit tannic slight herbal/green
olive very spicy/perfumed licorice/ pungent/blackberry/Syrah
flavor; very long/lingering pungent/licorice/blackberry/Syrah
perfumed/spicy/licorice/light herbal finish w/ some tannins;
a beautiful/aromatic nose w/ good richness on palate; the
best of Adam's '00 Syrahs. Great buy at $18.00.
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Novy AlderSprings Vineyard Mendocino GMC Blend (67% Grenache,
32% Mourvedre, 1% Cunoise; 14.6%) 2000:
Med.color; terrific/exotic/perfumed/aromatic strawberry/Grenache
almost GWT-like some toasty/smokey/oak complex nose; tart
bit tannic very bright/spicy/ exotic/strawberry/Grenache
aromatic/perfumed elegant flavor; long very perfumed/aromatic
strawberry/Grenache/berry very spicy light toasty/oak finish
w/ light tannins; a complex very perfumed/exotic red blend;
more about elegance and grace and balance than power and
intensity; much like a perfumey EdStJohn Rocks&Gravel.
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Failla Jordan Syrah Sonoma Coast Que Syrah Vineyard (13.6%)
2000:
Dark color; very strong/peppery pungent/roasted/coffee/mocha
smokey/pungent complex rather NorthernRhone some green olive/
Syrah very exotic nose; tart rather green olive/roasted/coffee/mocha/Syrah
cracked black pepper bit toasty/pungent/smokey/oak flavor;
very long/lingering cracked black pepper/green olive/Syrah
some roasted/pungent/coffee bit lean/hard rather NothernRhone
finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs.
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Sine Qua Non The Marauder Calif RW (Syrah; 40% Alban
Vineyard, 36% BienNacido Vineyard, 24% Stolpman Vineyard;
14.9%) 1999: Very dark color; very intense blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
very perfumed/cardammon plummy some toasty/pungent/Fr.oak
slight stemmy nose; tart bit alcoholic hard/tannic toasty/pungent/smokey/Fr.oak
rather strong/blackberry/boysenberry/ plummy spicy/perfumed
flavor; long hard/tannic smokey/toasty/pungent/Fr.oaked
strong blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry finish w/ ample tannins;
seems a bit closed and akward right now; needs 2-6 yrs of
age yet; lots of new toasty Fr.oak and blackberry/Syrah
character.
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Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage (13%) 2000:
Dark color; rather green olive/pungent/roasted/ oaked/walnutty
complex nose; tart pungent/roasted/walnutty some roasted/coffee/bacon
fat bit lean flavor; med.long toasty/oak/roasted/green olive/Syrah
finish w/ some tannins; hasn't the schreechy acidity of
some previous ones; nice NorthernRhone character at an atttractive
price but not up to some previous Graillot C-Hs.
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Perrin Les Sinards Chateauneuf du Pape (13.5%) 1998:
Dark color; some bretty pretty fecal/ diaper pail walnutty/chocolaty/chocolate
covered cherries/CherryMash some CdP/roasted/earthy nose;
very rustic/sauvage/Mourvedre bretty/fecal/funky/diaper
pail dusty/earthy little fruit flavor; long fecal/unclean/diaper
pail chocolate covered cherries dusty/earthy finish w/ light
tannins; pretty weird/funky CdP. Larry's mystery wine.
A
BirthDay Celebration For Gary
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Lake Chalice Marlborough Falcon Vineyard Late Harvest
Riesling (13.0%) 2000: Light gold color;
attractive/fragrant/botrytis perfumed/R Auslese-level bit
simple nose; very sweet simple very grapey slight botrytis/JR
bit Fr.oak flavor; long sweet simpl;e grapey/floral/R light
botrytis finish; attarctive high-Auslese-level R wine.
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Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough Late Harvest Semillon (13.5%)
2000:
Med.dark gold color; deeper lots of botrytis/peachy/Sauternes-like
slight herbal light butterscotchy/oak nose; sweet rather
botrytis/peachy/apricotty light butterscotchy flavor; med.long
peachy/botrytis light caramel/oak finish; attractive some
Sauternes-like dessert wine.
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Chateau Haut-Caplane Sauternes (13.5%) 1995:
Med.dark gold color; some concrete vat/cheap Sauternes/earthy
some butterscotchy/caramel bit volatile nose; very sweet
some butterscotchy/ oak hot/volatile some botrytis/apricotty
earthy cheap Sauternes flavor; med. earthy/ butterscotchy/oak
light apricotty/peachy some hot/volatile/fumey finish; bit
too much cheap Sauternes character; pass at $16.00/hlf
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And
the usual stuff from the bloody pulpit:
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- Dehlinger Syrahs: These are consistently
some of the most polished/elegant and well-made Syrahs from
Calif. They're a very good example of the fact that Syrah
doesn't have to be all about power and extract and intensity.
OTOH, they have the balance to age very well is my
impression.
- Neyers Syrah: I've followed the
Neyers Syrahs from the very start. The grapes come from
Lee Hudson's Carneros vnyd on the north side of the highway
near the WineryLake vnyd. Though I've generally liked the
Syrahs; I've not been convinced that the Hudson vnyd was
a great Syrah site, based also on the JadeMtn and Kongsgaard
Syrahs. They've not had the bright Syrah fruit that other
sites have showm, a lot of that sort of Carneros/soupy/earthy
character that often show in those Pinots as well. A sort
of clunkish character to them. Based on this '00 Neyers,
I may have to change my tune. This is easily the best Neyers
Syrah I've yet had and the best Syrah from Hudson vnyd yet.
It has a roasted/peppery/ pungent quality that I also find
in other cold-climate Syrahs like Ehren Jordan's Sonoma
Coast ones. It also shows some of that green olive character
that I get in marginally- ripe Syrah, often in the Qupe
Hillside. The Nyers '00 also reminded me a lot of the Graillot
Crozes in a good year. This '00 version is a terrific
Syrah and I hope it's an indicator of exactly what the Hudson
vnyd can produce.
- Chave Offerus: I've followed the Offerus
St.Joseph from the very start. I was very impressed with
the '97 right out of the gate. It developed into a lovely/beautiful
NorthernRhone. The '98 and '99 vintages I found to be on
the light/closed side at release, but they both put on a
bit of weight after about 6 months time. This '00 version
is another very attractive Offerus right from the
start. If it puts on weight as well, it probably will be
the best Offerus yet.
- Novy Syrahs: The prices for these '00
Syrahs are the futures price plus shipping to NM. I've followed
Adam's Syrahs from the very start, the '98's. He did not
think these '00 were as good as the '99's, so he dropped
the price a bit on them. Unheard of in this day and age.
Like many of the '00 Zins I've had, they often have beautiful
aromatics but are a bit (sometimes, a lot) lacking on the
palate in structure and intensity. These '00 of Adam's strike
me as not quite the richness & depth of his '99's and
a bit more forward/ready to drink. OTOH, these are some
terrific Syrahs that are still wortth buying. Lots of happy
folks in LosAlamos because we did.
- Novy GMC Blend: This is, I believe, Adam's
first Rhone blend under his Novy label. Only one barrel
made, I believe. At a much higher price, I was expecting
a big/massive/extracted red. Wrong. This wine is all about
elegance/balance and perfume; a very exotic kind of wine;
almost like an intense Freisa or Aleatico in perfume. Well
done wine.
- 2000 Calif Syrahs: With the 2000 Zins,
I've found many that have very attractive aromatics, but
are sometimes/oftentimes lacking on the palate in terms
of structure/tannins and intensity. I see some of
that same problems in the North Coast Syrahs as well; though,
perhaps, not to the same extent as with the Zins. This gross
generalization does NOT (necessarily) apply to the Paso/Santa
Barbara/SantaCruzMtn/Amador Syrahs; I've not had enough
of these yet to make such comments.
- Failla Jordan Syrah: I've followed Ehren's
Syrah from Al Rago's Que Syrah vnyd from the very start.
This is definitely cold-climate Syrah; which gives it that
rather green olive/peppery character you often find in NorthernRhone
wines and don't often find in other Calif Syrahs. I really
liked this '00 version for that NR character; probably more
so than the other tasters in my group. FWIW: In the
summer of 1967, I worked as a graduate student at Argonne
National Laboratory outside Chicago. Down the hall from
my office was one Al Rago who usually went to lunch with
our group there in Reactor Physics. What a surprise last
year at HdR to realize that the Que Syrah vnys Al Rago is
the very one in the same Al Rago I knew many a year ago.
'Cept, unlike some slow learners, Al gave up chasing neutrons
around and got into the very lucrative grape growing business!!
(TFIC).
TomHill
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