by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

 
1. Rosenblum Cellars Russian River Valley Merlot Lone Oak Vineyard (14.7%) 1999: Dark color; fragrant/ chocolaty/black cherry forward/fruity light oak slight volatile/aromatic nose; bit tart/ lean cherry/black cherry hard bit metallic structured flavor; med.long very tart/lean/ tannic rather bright cherry/black cherry light toasty/oak finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs; a Merlot w/ some structure to it.
2. Rosenblum Cellars Holbrook Mitchell Trio Napa Valley RW (78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% CabFranc; 14.2%)  1999: Med.dark color; bit herbal/green olive tobaccoy/toasty/oak/smoked Spanish paprika some lush/blackcurranty/Cab complex nose; soft/lush/ripe smoked paprika/toasty/oak big/ ripe blackcurranty/Cab slight green olive flavor; very long ripe blackcurranty/Can toasty/ smoked paprika/tobaccoy/toasty finish w/ fair tannins; needs 2-5 yrs; very interesting mountain Cabernet at a great price.
3. Congress Springs SCM Cab Franc (13.9%) 1984: Med.dark color; charred/oak/toasty/smokey  bit licorice/earthy slight volatile some complex nose; soft rather dusty/earthy pretty charred/oak/toasty/smokey little fruit flavor; med.long smokey/toasty/charred/burnt some dusty/licorice complex finish w/ little tannins; mildly interesting but starting the down-hill slide.
4. Corti Bros Napa Valley CSCFM RTW Stephen's Winery, Oakville 1991: Med.color; bit reduced/funky rather herbal/Cab cedary/oaked/tobaccoy slight stinky/H2S low fruit nose; tart rather herbal/Cab bit underripe cedary/oaked/pungent some dusty/tannic/dried-out flavor; med. long cedary/oaked herbal/Cab slight curranty cedary/oaked finish w/ light tannins; starting to go downhill; a wine made at Caymus that was very good in its time.
5. Michael Sulberg of the Negociants Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (13.6%; 980 cs) 1990: Very dark color;  very slightly corked pungent/toasty deep Cab/blackcurranty dusty nose; rich dusty/earthy pungent/oaked/toasty ripe blackcurranty/Cab/licorice some complex flavor; rather tannic/ young pungent/smokey/oaked big Cab/blackcurranty/licorice dusty/ripe finish w/ fair  tannins; a no-name wine w/ some pedigree behind it; made by Bryant Family  Vineyards; still young and needs 2-6 yrs yet.
6. ZD Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (12.5%) 1981: Med.dark slightly bricking color; rather herbal/cedary/ green olive/rain on wet pavement walnutty/complex low fruit nose; tart/smooth rather herbal/walnutty pungent complex aged/Cab cedary flavor; med.long pungent/cedary/ walnutty some herbal/green olive aged finish w/ little tannins; an interesting/complex aged Calif Cab starting to slide.
7. Santa Cruz Mtn Vineyard SCM Cabernet Sauvignon Bates Ranch (SaH: 25 Brix; 13.8%) 1980: Very dark color; bit herbal dusty/earthy/SCM/Cab toasty/oaked bit green pepper/tomatoey/cinammon/cloves complex nose; tart bit funky pungent herbal/tea-like dusty/earthy tobaccoy/charred oak bit funky complex flavor; med.long bit tannic/dried out slight herbal/tea dusty rather pungent/ charred/oaked finish w/ some tannins; interesting/complex but drying out and on the downside.
8. Santa Cruz Mtn Vineyard SCM Cabernet Sauvignon Bates Ranch (SaH: 23.6 Brix; 13.3%) 1981: Dark color; strong toasty/pungent/smokey/charred dusty/SCM Cab/peppery tobaccoy/cedary complex nose; soft tobaccoy/toasty/smoked/oaked earthy/dusty/SCM Cab peppery complex flavor; very long pungent/toasty/smokey/oaked peppery/dusty/SCM Cab slightly dried out complex finish w/ light tannins; starting to dry out but very complex & good example of mature SCM Cab.
9. Buehler Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (13%) 1984: Med.dark color; bit funky intense licorice/pungent/ charred/toasty oaked complex light blackcurranty nose; hard/tannic/dried out bit funky rather charred/burnt/toasty slight blackcurranty flavor; long/hard/tannin/dried-out finish w/ little fruit; interesting nose but dried-out/dying on the palate. $10.60
10. Buehler Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (13%; #10030) 1980: Very dark color; intense licorice/roasted/ coffee/mocha/cocoa/oaked smokey/complex some blackcurranty/Cab slight bretty nose; big/ huge/rich coffee/mocha/toasted/roasted/pungent/oaked licorice/blackcurranty/Cab fairly tannic smooth complex flavor; very long pungent/roasted/coffee/charred/oak rather blackcurranty/Cab rich somewhat tannic finish; a big huge complex roasted Cab probably near its peak.
11. Beuhler Vineyards Napa Valley Zin (14%) 1979: Med.color; rather overripe/pruney old Zin/tobaccoy peppery complex bit alcoholic nose; soft tobaccoy/old Zin rather peppery/pungent some  toasty/oak smokey vanilla/oaked ripe flavor; very long old Zin/tobaccoy/cedary/pungent smokey/oak/toasty bit dried-out/tannic finish; starting to get a bit shakey bit still a very interesting wine.
12. Buehler Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) 1978: Very dark color; very intense vanilla/oaked chocolaty complex intense beautiful roasted/Rhonish/tobaccoy licorice nose; very rich hard intense vanilla/Bourbob/oaked toasty/charred/pungent roasted/coffee some blackcurranty/ Cab very complex flavor; very long toasty/roasted/pungent/vanilla some chocolaty/ripe/ blackcurranty/Cab peppery/pungent somewhat tannic finish; still in great condition but probably not going to soften much; still hard & tannic but not drying out & still plenty of Cab fruit; terrific old Calif Cab.
13. Ridge Calif Monte Bello (MonteBello Vineyard; 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% PV, 1% CabFranc; 12.4%; Selection: 47%; 119tons from 83.5 acres=1.425 tons/acre) 1998: Very dark color; very intense chocolaty/toasted coconut/mocha/coffee complex strong earthy/dusty/blackcurranty/Cab nose; rather hard/tannic bit thin/lean/shrill coffee/roasted/pungent/oak/toasted coconut some blackcurranty/Cab/earthy flavor; long hard/lean/tannic strong toasted/oak/pungent/ toasted coconut finish; needs age; a classic MB fairly concentrated nose but pretty hard & hurtey on the palate; will probably age well.
14. Ridge Calif  Monte Bello (MonteBello Vineyard; 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% merlot, 4% PV, 3% CabFranc; 12.9%; Selection: 45%; 172 tons from 83.5 acres= 2.06 tons/acre) 1997: Black color; slight volatile/aromatic intense mocha/toasty/smokey/pungent/oak intense blackcurranty/Cab/ chocolaty/earthy complex classic MB nose; big/huge/rich ripe/blackcurranty/chocolaty/ loads of Cab fruit toasty/mocha/pungent/toasty complex dusty flavor; very long/lingering roasted/mocha/toasty/coffee/pungent/oak intense blackcurranty/Cab/licorice/chocolaty rather tannic finish; a classic powerful MB Cab that will age for quite some time; dynamite young MB.
15. Schrader Gaudeamus Vineyard Upper Block (#768; 14.1%) Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998: Black color; very strong adhesive tape/BandAid charred/pungent/toasty/oak intense blackcurranty/Cab/ licorice strange/complex nose; big/huge/mouthfilling pungent/toasty/Fr.oaked adhesive tape strong blackcurranty/licorice/Cab flavor; very long lean/hard strong blackcurranty/ Cab toasty/pungent/oaked adhesive tape finish w/ ample tannins; for a weak vintage, this is a pretty powerful Cab; seems a bit closed & hard, but should age into a beautiful Cabernet.
16. Spotswoode Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995: Black color; big/rich/intense blackcurranty/Cab rich/smokey/ oaked complex loads of fruit nose; ripe/forward very lush/ripe/blackcurranty/Cab some toasty/Fr.oaked flavor; very long lush/ripe/blackcurranty/Cab/licorice some toasty/Fr.oak finish w/ light tannins; nearing it's peak; lovely Cab, classiv example of those Napa Valley painted ladies. Howard&Rhoda's mystery wine.
17. Silverado Vineyards Napa Valley Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (13%) 1991: Dark color; strong smokey/charred/ espresso/camphor green olive/herbal light blackcurranty Cab complex nose; hard/lean very strong espresso/roasted/charred/oak camphor bit herbal/green olive slight black- curranty/Cab rather hard/lean bit drying out flavor; med.long hard/lean/tannic some herbal/olive finish w/ fair tannins; not seem to be aging gracefully; bit on herbal side. Larry's mystery wine;

And a few sweeties to celebrate:

1. Thumbs Up SantaBarbara County White Riesling (12.0%; SaH: 44Brix; RS: 17%) 1994: Dark gold color; very intense botrytis/peachy/apricotty toasty/coconut/Fr.oaked classic Sauternes nose; very sweet tart rich toasty/coconutty/Fr.oaked intense botrytis/peachy/apricotty flavor; very long very sweet lingering botrytis toasty/oak finish; a great Calif  Sauternes.
2. La Cappuccina Arzimo Recioto di Soave (100% Garaganega; 14%) NV: Dark gold color; intense apricotty/botrytis/peachy caramel orangey complex earthy beautiful nose; sweet slight oxidized/earthy strong botrytis/apricotty caramel/orangey flavor; long sweet orangy/caramel botrytis/apricotty finish; a bit earthy/oxidized (passito??) but very good dessert wine.
3. Rosenblum Cellars Russian River Valley Late Hrvst Zin Dutton Ranch (13.2%; SaH:38%; RS:13.0%) 1999: Med.color; very intense raspberry/blackberry/Zin some stemmy/Kansas feed store slight earthy/dusty nose; very sweet blackberry/boysenberry bit raisened slight funky/ Kansas feed store bit hard flavor; long very sweet intense blackberry/boysenberry/jammy bit raisened finish; probably best drunk young.

1. The SantaCruzMtn Cabs: These two wines, along with the Duriff, were real learning  lessons for me. Originally priced at around $24/btl here in NM, they were soooo reduced/ stinky/sewer gas/fecal/funky/diaper pail that they couldn't sell. So they wholesaler unloaded them and at $11.79 they still couldn't sell. Eventually I was buying them at around $6/btl. Why???? Because they were such huge/extracted/big wines that I just felt they MUST turn into something good; certainly they couldn't get any worse. Sometimes you win one. With 5-7 yrs of age, they started to loose that stinky/reduced character and evolve into really tasty Cabs. Since then, my rule of thumb that wines that may be stinky/reduced should not be dismissed out of hand if they seem to have the stuffing to outlive the stench. But, from these wines, the "Burnap stench" became a standard part of my wine lexicon.
2. Buehler Vineyards: I've followed Buehler Vineyards, the Zin and Cab, from the very start. This is the very start. If memory serves, Phillip Togni was their first winemaker, and these  wines surely reflect that style. I believe he left around 1982 or so. Eventually, I believe that Heidi Peterson became winemaker, afore she became famous. As the intensity and quality of the Buehler wines seemed to sag in the mid-'80's, I gave up on them. Haven't tried many of their recent efforts, at least none that stood out.
3. Monte Bello '98: From a reportedly poor vintage; the anemic (for Calif) alcohol level shows the difficult ripening they had. Most people did NOT like the wine on the palate, finding it a hard/lean/shrill, even thin. That being said, my suspicion is that this MB will age into quite a lovely/elegant old lady. MB doesn't always have to be about strength & power, sometimes elegance and grace is good, too. So don't give up on this wine.
4. Monte Bello Cab: I've followed MB Cab from the very start, the '65 being my first one. It's without doubt one of the world's unique Cabs. It doesn't show a whole lot of the bright/ lush Cab fruit that you get from those floozies up in Napa w/ heavy lipstick & mascara and silicone flopping around all over. It has a definite lean SantaCruzMtn earthy character to it that often is not appreciated until you've had experience with the wine. I suspect some folks buy the wine on its reputation for being a Calif great Cab and then are a bit underwhelmed when it doesn't deliver that usual Kay-Moose lushness. But it's definitely one of my special Cabs that I'll continue buying. 

TomHill

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