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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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New Zinfandels - April 16, 2003
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- Novy
Zinfandel Russian River Valley Carlisle Vineyard (16.0%)
2001: Dark
color; intense blackberry/boysenberry/ black cherry some
smokey/toasty/Fr.oak very spicy terrific nose; tart bit
alcoholic very intense blackberry/black cherry/cola very
spicy light toasty/smokey/oak flavor; very long/lingering
intense black cherry/blackberry/cola some toasty/oak slight
alcoholic finish w/ some tannins; a stunning Zinfandel on
Adam's first one. Tastes like a Zinfandel made by a Pinot
producer.
- Carlisle
Russian River Valley Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard (16.2%;
Zinfandel + PS / Alicante Bouschet/ GrandNoir/ Carignane;
410 cs; planted in 1927 by Alcide Peletti; 1.25 tons/acre)
2001: Dark color; intense peppery/boysenberry/blackberry/cola/framboise
very intense fruit light smokey/pencilly/oak very lush nose;
tart very intense blackberry/boysenberry/framboise very
spicy/peppery light milky/ pencilly/oak flavor; very long/lingering
tart intense blackberry/boysenberry/peppery finish w/ some
tannins; needs a few yrs; a killer Zinfandel; tastes like
a Zinfandel made by a Syrah producer.
- Carlisle
Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (15.8%; 237 cs) 1998: Med.dark
color; very fragrant/perfumed very spicy/ aromatic rather
bright/Zinberry slight dusty light pencilly/oak some complex
nose; tart very spicy cranberry/Zinberry bit lean some pencilly/oak
complex flavor; very long very spicy Zinberry/ cranberry
biy dusty light pencilly/oak finish w/ light tannins; lots
of bright DCV fruit and lots of spiciness; really tasting
nice right now.
- Carlisle
Sonoma Cnty Zinfandel (15.9%; Carlisle Vineyard + DryCreek
Vineyards; Zinfandel + dryCreek Carignane & Grenache;
230 cs) 2001: Very dark color; some blackberry/spicy/black
cherry bit closed some tobaccoy/smokey/oak lovely nose;
softer bright cherry/black cherry/blackberry spicy bit earthy/
dusty flavor; med.long spicy cherry/berry/bright some spicy/peppery
light oak/smokey finish w/ light tannins; the Carignan/cherry
character seems to show thru; lovely drink Zinfandel for
the near term.
- Carlisle
Russian River Valley Zinfandel Tom Feeney Ranch (16.6%;
Vineyard planted in 1926; Zinfandel + PS/ AlicanteBouschet/GrandNoir
de la Calmette; 350 cs) 2001: Dark color; some minty/eucalyptus
very spicy/blackberry/raspberry/Zinfandel more bright/DCV-like
some Am.oak/pencilly quite spicy nose; tart some buttery/Am.oak
slight eucalyptus bright/spicy/Zinberry/blackberry bit alcoholic
flavor; very long/lingering buttery/Am.oak slight eucalyptus/minty
very spicy raspberry/blackberry finish w/ some tannins;
beautiful spicy Zinfandel more DCV in character than RRV;
loads of bright fruit.
- Carlisle
Russian River Valley Zinfandel Gum Tree Ranch (16.2%; century
old vines; last vintage/gone to real estate developers;
Zinfandel + PS/GrandNoir de la Calmette; 1 ton/acre; 140
cs) 2001: Very dark color; strong minty/eucalyptus/menthol
huge blackberry/peppery/framboise complex nose; huge/rich
eucalyptus/menthol intense blackberry/boysenberry/framboise
very spicy/peppery light oak flavor; very long/lingering
big/blackberry/boysenberry/Zinfandel rather eucalyptus/menthol
very spicy/peppery finish w/ some tannins; needs a few yrs;
a classic RRV Zinfandel w/ interesting eucalyptus character;
the eucalyptus seems more subdued than last yrs version;
killer Zinfandel.
- Rockledge
Napa Valley Zinfandel (14.5%) Growers: Peter&Linda Snowden,
Winemaker: John Gibson 1999: Dark color; spicy blackberry/boysenberry
slight framboise rather oaked slight earthy nose; tart some
toasty/pungent/oak bright raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel
bit buttery flavor; med. bright/ raspberry/blackberry some
buttery/oak finish w/ light tannins; nice well-made mainstream
Napa Valley Zinfandel at a good price.
- Carneros
Creek Wnry Amador Cnty Late Picked Zinfandel Esola Vineyard
(16.7%; RS: 0.6%) 1976: Dark color w/ little browning;slight/some
corked/TCA that blows off to an intense boysenberry/ripe/chocolaty/licorice/
pungent some tobaccoy/smokey/oak very complex no raisened
or pruney nose; off-dry very ripe chocolaty/licorice/blackberry/boysenberry
bit raisened/overripe tarry/pungent/tobaccoy complex flavor;
very long bit astringent/dried out strong blackberry/boysenberry
rather tobaccoy/pungent/ oak some tarry/complex finish;
drying out and a bit aged, but in amazing shape for a LateHrvst
'76 and little raisened/pruney character showing.
- Turley
Calif Zinfandel Juvenile (15.3%; Young vines: Hayne/Moore/Duarte/Pesenti
+ Turley Estate) 2001: Dark color; some milky/oaked
rich chocolaty/blackberry/Zinfandel slight earthy/mushroomy
rather grapey/cola/lush nose; soft/lush chocolaty/raspberry/blackberry
bit earthy some pungent/toasty oak flavor; soft/lush/grapey
bit chocolaty lush/raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel light
toasty/oak finish w/ light tannins; soft/lush/grapey Zinfandel.
- Turley
Calif Zinfandel OldVines (15.5%) 2001: Very dark color;
more classic blackberry/raspberry/Zinfandel some dusty/old
vines/earthy very attractive nose; rich/ripe blackberry/boysenberry
very spicy light pungent/oak some dusty very attractive
flavor; long dusty blackberry/raspberry/lush/Zinfandel light
toasty/oak finish w/ light tannins; very delicious/tasty
blackberry Zinfandel w/ good dusty/old vine character.
- Turley
ContraCostaCnty Zinfandel Duarte (15.0%; 105 yr old own
rooted vines) 2001: Very dark color; very strong plummy/blackberry/chocolaty
earthy/mushroomy/dusty/old vines complex nose; soft/ripe
plummy/blackberry/chocolaty dusty/mushroomy/earthy light
toasty/oak flavor; long chocolaty/plummy/ blackberry/Zinfandel
some earthy/dusty finish w/ light tannins; lots of ContraCosta/plummy
character; very tasty/drinkable Zinfandel.
- Turley
Atlas Peak Zinfandel Mead Ranch (16.0%) 2001: Very dark
color; bright raspberry/blackberry very spicy/cloves/licorice
some toasty/oak lovely complex bit dusty nose; tart very
spicy/cloves strong raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel some
pungent/smokey/toasty/oak flavor; very long/lingering very
spicy/cloves strong raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel light
pungent/oak complex finish w/ some tannins; can use a yr
or two; beautiful/lovely very spicy Zinfandel; my favorite
of these Turleys.
- Turley
Napa Valley Zinfandel Turley Estate (15.6%) 2001: Dark
color; intense blackberry/licorice/chocolaty/ boysenberry
very perfumed/loads of fruit nose; tart spicy raspberry/blackberry/black
cherry/cola some pungent/toasty/oak flavor; long spicy chocolaty/licorice/boysenberry/Zinfandel/blackberry
finish w/ light tannins; terrific/intense nose but doesn't
quite deliver on the palate.
- Turley
Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Grist Vineyard (15.0%) 2001:
Dark color; rather dusty/old vines beautiful/ripe/ raspberry/blackberry/Zinberry
some toasty/pungent/smokey/oak complex nose; tart very spicy/bright/
Zinberry/raspberry/blackberry light toasty/oak finish w/
some tannins; very classic DCV Zinfandel w/ lots of spicy
fruit; lovely wine.
- Salvatore
Molettieri Turasi Vigne Cinque Querc (13%) 1997: Dark
color; very dusty/earthy/walnutty smokey/funky/licorice
bit goat pen/barnyardy/hot-climate strange nose; tart/tannic
earthy/pungent/ walnutty rather Italian/hot-climate/funky/goat
pen some blackberry flavor; med. funky/barnyardy earthy/dusty/walnutty
finish w/ some tannins; lots of hot-climate/funky character
but an interesting wine.
- Elyse
Napa Valley Petite Sirah Barrel Select (12.9%) 1994: Very
dark color; very ripe bit alcoholic cranberry/boysenberry
rather pencilly/smokey/oak some complex/tobaccoy nose; soft/smooth
spicy milky/Am.oak peppery/cranberry some aged/tobaccoy/PS
flavor; long peppery/cranberry some pencilly/ tobaccoy/Am.oak
finish w/ light tannins; a bit further along than I'd have
thought for such a black/extracted PS in its youth; very
attractive mature PS.
- Ridge
Late Picked Pagani Ranch (80% Zinfandel, 15% Mataro, 5%
PS; SaH: 28%; RS: 0.1%; 15.8%) 1992: Med. dark color;
very lush blackberry/licorice/boysenberry/licorice some
milky/Am.oak bit complex nose; rich blackberry/licorice/boysenberry
bit alcoholic milky/Am.oak slight dusty/earthy flavor; med.
long dusty/old vine milky/Am.oak strong blackberry/licorice/pungent
flavor w/ some tannins; seems to be moving right along;
classic Pagani peppery character; lovely mature Zinfandel.
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And
today's bloody pulpit contains the following nuggets
of wisdom:
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GrandNoir de la Calmette: Cross of PetiteBouschet (Aramon
X Teinturier du Cher) X Aramon; named by Henri Bouschet
after his breeding station. "...he suspected its true worth
and was unwilling to have the family name associated with
it... The sins of its parents indeed visited on this infelicitous
crossing... Second most planted grape in Cognac... Teinturier,
even worse than AlicanteBouschet"
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Carlisle Vineyard: This is the Vineyard made famous
as the Peletti Vineyard by the Cecil Deloach. Cecil
harvested the cuttings from this Vineyard, propagated
them onto a new Vineyard, trademarked the name, so the Peletti
Vineyard no longer is. When Mike&Kendall bought the
Peletti Vineyard, there was a few more yrs to run
on the DeLoach contract, which ran out w/ the 2000 Vineyard.
So this 2001 is the first Zinfandel Mike made from his own
grapes. It's clear that this is, indeed, a very special
Zinfandel Vineyard from these first two wines. It was interesting
to taste these two wines side-by-side. Both are classic
RRV Zinfandel, with an intense peppery/blackberry character
to them. The glib response would be to say the Novy tastes
like a Zinfandel made by a Pinot producer, but LarryA. would
raise bloody hell with me. But, in fact, I DID find more
of a black cherry character and a bit more toasty oak in
Adam's version. Mike's had a bit more of the peppery character
to it I associate w/ RRV Zinfandel. I found a bit more alcoholic
heat in the Novy, but they both carry their high alcohols
very gracefully. Both are absolutely stunning Zins and it
will be fun to follow both of their evolutions.
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SonomaCnty 2001: This is Mike Officer's VW-grade Zinfandel,
made for more immediate drinking and a more attractive price.
But "bottom of the line" Zinfandel it ain't. It is, in fact,
better than most other winery's Zins that sell for much
greater bucks. Really nice drink stuff.
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CarnerosCreek Zinfandel '76: This was a mystery wine brought
by Blair from his cellar. From the ullage (mid-shoulder)
and the decrepit cork (Frank Mahoney had a lot of problems
thru the '74-'76 vintage with corks and many of his wines
were "weepers" and ullaged badly) (this cork just slid right
out very easily; not well-sealed); I knew it must be a fairly
old wine. From the still-dark color; I guessed a Zinfandel
from the mid-late '80's. The wine was still very much alive
and still had plenty of fruit left in it. The wine was a
bit strange. Everyone immediately got a corked character
to it. When I finally poured my glass and tried it, I found
a bit of an old-wine mustiness to it and a small but noticible
TCA component. But, as I swirled and tasted, the TCA seemed
to diminish quite a bit and I could taste the wine underneath
it. Then, when I went back & tried it again at the end
of the tasting, the corkiness was still very much there.
I don't usually notice this kind of behavior with TCA. Some
people thought the wine had a raging TCA to it, others thought
it not so bad and found it to go away with breathing in
the glass.
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CarlisleZins: I've followed Mike Officer's Zins from the
very start, back in his home winemaker days. There are some
of the best Zins being made in Calif these days I feel.
They have big fruit and big alcohol, but yet seem in balance
and not overripe at all. Terrific Zins.
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TurleyZins: I've followed the Turley Zins from the very
start, back in the Helen Turley days. They were, and continue
to be, some of my favorite Zins. Despite their high alcohol
levels, which I don't find objectionable, they seldom show
that overripe character that such ripe grapes can give to
a wine. I think that will be harder to do w/ their Paso/Pesenti
Zinfandel. The wines from HelenTurley's era gave them the
reputation for huge/extracted/oaky Zins. Under Ehren Jordan's
care, the wines have seemed to me to be more balanced and
restrained. Furthermore, all the Zins are distinctive and
representative of their terroir, something that can't always
be said of some wineries who produce multiple Vineyard-designate
Zins.
TomHill
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© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
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