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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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Zinfandel - April 2, 2003
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- Ridge
Calif Zin Sonoma Station (75% Zin, 16% PS, 9% Carignane;
Sonoma County; 14.7%; Drk: 11/01-11/06) 2000: Med.color;
pleasant raspberry/Zin very light oak bit dusty simple nose;
tart rather simple raspberry/Zin light milky/Am.oak pleasant
flavor; med. simple/ raspberry/Zin finish w/ light oak finish;
seems to have put on some weight from a yr ago but a bit
too simple for my taste.
- Ridge
Calif Zin Sonoma Station Sonoma County (84% Zin, 8% PS,
8% Carignane; 14.5%; Drk: 12/02-12/07) 2001: Med.color;
bigger more dusty some raspberry/Zinberry/Zin slight funky/
mushroomy/band-aid/not-corked nose; deeper raspberry/blackberry/Zin/Zinberry
bit dusty/chalky slight mushroomy/funky/pungent flavor;
med. blackberry/raspberry/Zin bit dusty finish w/ some tannins;
bit bigger/riper/more alcoholic than the 2000; pleasant/drinkable
Zin.
- Green
& Red Vineyard Calif Zin (14.5%; 25% LakeCnty, 39% Lodi,
26% Paso Robles, 10% Napa) 2001: Med.color; pleasant
simple/raspberry/Zin noticible Lodi/mushroomy slight oak
nose; tart simple/earthy rather mushroomy/LodiZin pleasant
raspberry/Zin flavor; med.short raspberry/Zin mushroomy/earthy/Lodi
finish w/ light tannins; a pleasant/simple mostly Lodi Zin.
- Wild
Horse Paso Robles Zin (13.8%) 1990: Med.color w/ slight
browning; bit tired some pencilly/charred/toasty/tobaccoy/oak
no fruit slight herbal/sewage nose; tart/lean rather dried-out/tired
some chalky/cherry/Cheracol pencilly/charred/tobaccoy old
Zin flavor; med.long tored/dried-out light cherry/cola/Cheracol
chalky/dusty/astringent finish; was once a really ripe/jammy
Pasdo Zin but w/ structure, but has not stood the test of
time.
- Ridge
Calif Zin Paso Robles (Dusi Ranch; 14.5%; Drk: 10/02-10/07)
2001: Med.dark color; ripe blackberry/jammy/boysenberry
some vanilla/Am.oak fairly rich slight dusty nose; soft/
ripe/jammy/blackberry fairly spicy slight earthy/dusty light
Am.oak flavor; med.long ripe/ jammy/blackberry spicy finish
w/ some tannins; plenty of spicy/blackberry/jammy character
but not the intensity or extract of the DusiRanch; lovely
Paso Zin.
- Ridge
Calif Zin Dusi Ranch Paso Robles (15.2%; 54 brls; Railroad&SouthEast
Corner; Drk: 10/7-10/9) 2001: Dark color; much
deeper blackberry/boysenberry/jammy/ripe slight dusty very
perfumed/fragrant/intense nose; soft very ripe blackberry/boysenberry/jammy/framboise/
loads of fruit/blach cherry cough syrup some tannic flavor;
very long/lingering intense blackberry/boysenberry/framboise
very ripe/chocolaty some milky/Am.oak bit tannic finish;
huge fruit almost like an Oz Shiraz, almost an Essence-like
character w/o the sugar; one of the best Paso Zins ever
from Ridge.
- EOS
Paso Robles Reserve Petite Sirah (EB; www.EOSVintage.com)
2000: Med.dark color; rather jammy/blackberry/very grapey
little PS some buttery/Am.oak nose; soft very jammy/PR/
blackberry bit tannic/rough some oaked flavor; med.long
rather rough/tannic quite jammy/ blackberry finish; needs
several yrs; a bit on the soft & soupy side; more PR/jammy
Zin than PS; bit pricey for what it is.
- Bogle
Vineyards Calif PetiteSirah (13.5%) V&B by Bogle Vineyards,
Clarksburg 2001: Very dark/black color; some peppery/blackberry/spicy
ripe Am.oak/vanilla nose; soft/fat black cherry/ blackberry/peppery/spicy
some oak/vanilla/bourbon rather tannic/grapey/soupy flavor;
med. lon ripe/blackberry/peppery finish w/ some tannins;
needs a yr or two; quite a mouthful of wine for a good price..."gobs
of hedonistic fruit" maybe, with good PS varietal character.
- Rosenblum
Cellars Napa Valley Zin Michael Marston Vineyard (13.7%)
1991: Med.color; rather dusty/old vines some pencilly/oak/toasty
bit tobaccoy slight feed store slight black cherry/fruit/
cola some complex nose; tart rather cherry/black cherry/cola
some pencilly/oaked still a bit of the classic Rosenblum
lushness bit dried-out/tired flavor; med.long cherry/black
cherry/cola rather tobaccoy/pencilly/oak rather tannic/hard
flavor; lots much of its fruit and barely holding on. Drink
up soon.
- Ravenswood
Old Hill Ranch Sonoma County Zin 1985: Med.color w/
slight browning; rather minty/ menthol some tobaccoy/earthy/pungent
old Zin/tobaccoy some complex rather dried-out bit fragrant/rose
petal nose; tart dried-out/tired little fruit some tobaccoy/menthol
slight cherry/spicy some complex flavor; med.long astringent/dried-out/tired
slight cherry/minty/ pencilly/tobaccoy finish; pretty tired
& dried out w/ only glimpses of what it once was. Blair's
mystery wine.
- Gary
Farrell Sonoma County Russian River Valley Zin TW 1992:
Med.light color; attractive bright cherry some toasty/pencilly/Fr.oak
fragrant fairly spicy bit complex nose; soft some toasty/
pencilly rather cherry/spicy some Pinotish flavor; med.long
toasty/pencilly/oak light cherry/spicy slight minty/menthol
finish; rather pretty Pinotish Zin; starting to lose some
fruit & needs to be drunk up.
- Limmerick
Lane Russian River Valley Zin Collins Vineyard (13.5%) 1993:
Med.light color; some licorice/ blackberry/Zin ripe
bit toasty/tobaccoy some complex nose; tart very spicy blackberry/licorice
some toasty/pungent/tobaccoy/oak bit dusty/old vines/earthy
flavor; med.long ripe/licorice/ blackberry finish w/ some
tannins; drying out a bit but still very much alive; lots
of RRV Zin character left.
- Ridge
Calif Zin Lytton Springs Dry Creek Valley (76% Zin, 17%
PS, 7% Carignane; 14.7%; Drk: 12/07-12/12; 40th Anniversary
1962-2001) 2001: Med.dark color; strong blackberry/boysenberry/
very spicy some menthol/oakquite dusty/old vines some pungent/smokey
some complex nose; tart some milky/Am.oak very spicy/blackberry/licorice/boysenberry
some minty/oak/pungent very dusty/old vines almost Geyserville-like
in flavor; very long/lingering complex pungent/toasty/smokey/bit
menthol/oak rather blackberry/cola finish w/ fair tannins;
pretty big & extracted then most recent LSZins; needs
some age, one to lay down; terrific LS.
- Marietta
Cellars Alexander Valley RW Angeli Cuvee (15.6%; Zin/PS/Carignane)
1999: Dark color; lovely blackberry/boysenberry
very spicy/fragrant strong toasty/oak bit volatile/alcoholic
very ripe some complex nose; rich alcoholic bit fumey/hot
very spicy intense blackberry/ boysenberry some menthol/toasty/oak
flavor; long ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Zin very ripe/
spicy some toasty/charred finish w/ some tannins; big ripe
& spicy w/ a touch of alcoholic heat; fairly priced
at $25.00 .
- Hart
Winery Temecula Late Harvest Zin (16.4%; SaH: 30.0%; RS:
2.0%; 326 cs) 1982: Med.color w/ some browning; rather
complex essence/raisened/prunish nushroomy/decayed vegetation
very ripe/late harvesty some tobaccoy/toasty/oak nose; off-dry
very raisened/pruney bit herbal/ feed store dried-out/tired
rather tobaccoy/charred/pencilly flavor; med.long strange/
herbal/feed store very raisened/pruney finish w/ little
tannins; bit too much raisened/ pruney character to my taste.
- Vose
Vineyards Special Sweet Hrvst Napa Valley Zin (15.2%; EB;
SaH: 33.6%; TA: 1.20 gm/100ml; RS: 1.90 gm/100ml; TA: 0.99
gm/100ml; 700 cs) 1982: Dark slight browning color;
rather wet dog fur/oxidized very pruney/raisened some tobaccoy/oak
nose; slightly sweet very raisened/pruney tobaccoy/charred/oak
very ripe bit oxidized/wet dog fur flavor; med.long very
overripe/raisened/pruney finish; on its last legs.
- Robert
Biale Aldo's Vineyard Zin (14.6%) 1994:Med.light color;
some Am.oak cherry/spicy/perfumed talc some tobaccoy/old
Zin bit complex nose; light cherry/Zin/perfumed talc rather
pencilly/ tobaccoy/old Zin bit dried out flavor; med.long
tobaccoy/old Zin slight cherry finish w/ light tannins;
barely clinging to life; drink up.
- Bogle
Calif Petite Sirah (12.5%) 1995: Dark color; rather
pungent/herbal/smokey bit earthy/ dusty Am.oaked/vanilla
slight licorice/peppery/grapey nose; soft/fat bit soupy
light licorice/blackberry/peppery earthy/dusty slight herbal
flavor; med.short soft/fat light herbal/blackberry toasty/vanilla/Am.oak
finish w/ some tannins; bit on the soft/soupy side but still
alive.
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And
we return you to the regularly-scheduled bloody pulpit:
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Ridge pricing: It's been a fair number of yrs since Ridge
has raised any of their prices. Sure is a good way to keep
us Ridge fans coming back for more. Their pricing and high
level of customer service is something you don't often see
at a lot of wineries.
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Ridge 2001 Zins: Heard a number of reports from ZAP that
the 2001 Ridges were pretty unthrilling wines. I couldn't
agree less. ALL of the Ridge 2001's I've thus far have had
have struck me as some of the best Zins they've made in
a number of yrs; with more complexity and intensity
and structure then I've seen from them in some time. And
have I've gone back and revisited many of the 2000's, most
of them have seemed to have gained weight & complexity
of the past year. That said, they still reflect the 2000
vintage and are more forward and drinkable sooner, rather
than later.
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Ridge Paso Robles: I've followed the Ridge Paso Zins from
the very start; in the mid-'70's. They used to have a hard/chalky/sour
streak to them that I didn't care a lot for. But over
the yrs, they tweaked it into one of my favorite Ridges,
consistently year in and year out. It has a lot of that
Paso jammy/blackberry/framboise character but they manage
to avoid the high alcohol of some Paso Zins. Although not
as long lived as other Ridge Zins, they do have the structure
for modest aging. I think it would be fascinating to do
a vertical, side-by-side, of Ridge Dusi and Rosenblum Sauret
Zins sometime. Bree???? Last year, afore Hospices du Rhone,
David Gates (Ridge Vineyard manager), Eric Baugher (Ridge
winemaker) and Paul Draper took me by to meet Benito Dusi.
Really neat guy in his early 80's, still active at his farming,
with a great sense of humor and this charming/ puckish twinkle
in his eye. The Vineyard is impeccably maintained, as if
Beni goes out there daily and stacks all the gravel and
rocks in their correct places. Over the yrs, Ridge
has made a few Dusi Ranch Essences; sweet late harvest Zins.
Killer killer wines that are loaded w/ that jammy/blackberry/boysenberry/framboise
character. Most are still great drinking w/ a long life
ahead of them; showing none of that raisened/prunish character
those wines often develop when the fruit starts to go. But
growing those grapes for an Essence just goes against Beni's
grain for good grape farming practices and, so, alas, there
will be no more of those wines. So sad, too bad. The Dusi
Vineyard is easy to spot. Driving up Hwy 101 on the south
edge of Paso, just afore you hit the commercial/industrial
bldgs there on the East side of the hwy, Beni's large Vineyard
of old/head-pruned vines sits w/ his home right there in
the middle. If there's this elfish/leprecaun out there in
the Vineyard putting the rocks in order.... that's Beni!!
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Bogle PetiteSirah: This wine has been cited by certain Monktown
attourneys as one of the QPRs of the year. Well..... yes
and no. For a $10 wine, it certainly delivers the goods.
A very good flavorful pizza wine. But I find it just a tad
towards the simple/boring side and wouldn't want to have
a whole lot of it; it would become a little tiring I think.
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RidgeZins: One of the things Paul Draper strives to achieve
in his Zins is to attain the greatest complexity he can
that the grapes can deliver. He seems to do a remarkable
job at this. It was particularly evident as we were tasting
this yr's edition of the Lytton. Everybody was finding all
sorts of different things in the wine and we wern't able
to achieve much of a consensus on how to describe the wine.
That ol' "Draper perfume" thing is about as close as you
can come. I often have that problem w/ the Ridge Zins....
I struggle to find the right words to describe them.
And after 10 minutes in the glass, those words wouldn't
fit the wine that at evolved anyway. It's a toughh job...
but someone's gotta do it.
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LyttonSprings '01: From the blend, it appears that all the
LS Grenache was held out of this yr's version. The wine
came across to me a more RussianRiver Zin than DryCreek
Zin; more pungency and depth than the last few vintages
has shown in this wine. It has a big/ hard structure that
bodes well for its aging. More Geyserville in character
than most of the recent one. One of the best LyttonSprings
in terms of a serious wine that I've seen in some time.
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Chemical changes/polyphenolics: The two '82 LateHrvsts had
dark color w/ only a hint of browning; presumably in a rather
reduced state. The next morning, after they had set out
overnight in decanters on the counter (I don't HAVE a sideboard...
nor even know what one is), they were a very murky brown
color w/ little hints of purple and more sediment than I
recall in the decanter.. Since we all "know" that we decant
youn/tannic red wines in order to allow the the wine
to oxidize and "soften" the tannins, I wonder why we don't
see the equivalent visual changes in these young wines??
TomHill
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