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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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Pinot Noir - April 9, 2003
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- Albert
Morot Beaune-Bressandes 1er Cru (13%; www.FrenchWinesSuck.com)
2000: Med.color; lovely violets/floral light earthy
some black cherry/Pinot Noir bit mushroomy slight brett
nose; tart light earthy/mushroomy elegant/floral/violets/Pinot
Noir little oak flavor; med.long tart fragrant/floral/violets
finish w/ light tannins; a lovely/drinkable RedBurg w/ very
pretty Pinot Noir fruit; pretty & elegant.
- Dehlinger
Pinot Noir RussianRiver Valley (EB; 14.6%) 2000: Med.color;
very bright cherry/spicy some pencilly/oak chocolate covered
cherries/candied very spicy nose; tart very spicy bright/
cherry/chocolate covered cherries very bright/Pinot/floral
flavor; very long rather pencilly/ Fr.oak very spicy Nehi
cherry soda pop/floral/chocolaty finish w/ light tannins;
lovely/ elegant/well-balanced w/ classic Dehlinger spiciness;
Cherry Mash in a glass.
- Dehlinger
Pinot Noir High Plains RussianRiver Valley (EB; Pommard
clone; 14.8%) 2000: Med.color; bit more earthy/mushroomy
more black cherry/deep some pencilly/Fr.oak nose; softer/rounder
more candied/cherry very spicy bit more earthy/mushroomy
some cherry soda pop flavor; long more pungent/deep/mushroomy
finish w/ some tannins; bit more Burgundian & bit more
deep; more RussianRiver in character; classic Dehlinger
spice.
- Dehlinger
Pinot Noir Octagon Russian River Valley (EB; Swan clone;
14.5%) 2000: Med.color; more bright cherry/soda pop/floral/violets
some pencilly/Fr.oak more spicy bit volatile/aromatic nose;
harder more tannic less fruit rather pencilly/Fr.oak some
cherry/Pinot/floral flavor; long bit harder/tannic less
fruit finish w/ some tannins; needs more age.
- Au
Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir "La Bauge Au-dessus"
BienNacido Vineyard (13.5%) 2000: Med.color; fairly
fragrant/black cherry/BN/plummy bit floral/Pinot Noir some
toasty/oak nose; tart bit dilute/ lean rather light/plummy/black
cherry some herbal/earthy some toasty/oak flavor; med.short
tart light plummy/cherry light toasty finish w/ light tannins;
some BN character but a bit on the simple side; OK for the
price. $23.00
- Fiddlehead
Cellars Santa Ynez Valley Lallapalooza Estate Pinot Noir
Fiddlestix (13.5%; www.FiddleheadCellars.com) 2000: Med.dark
color; bit minerally rather toasty/charred/Fr.oak rather
black cherry cola/coffee/mocha pungent/smokey some complex
nose; tart rather mocha/ coffee/toasty/Fr.oak bright cherry/black
cherry/cola/Pinot Noir bit minerally/earthy flavor; very
long tart minerally/spicy cherry/black cherry/cola/mocha
pungent/toasty finish w/ some tannins; needs a few yrs;
lots of oak but lots going on in this wine. $56.00
- Silver
Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard Santa Barbara County (15.8%;
SilverWines@Aol.com) 2000: Dark color; deep black cherry/plummy/blackberry
almost Syrah-like unusual some toasty/charred/Fr.oak nose;
big/glycerined black cherry/plummy/black berry rather pungent/toasty/Fr.oak
rather tart/ schreechy/acid flavor; med.long rich/plummy/blackberry
tart/acid rather toasty/pungent/oak some hard/tannic finish;
not a lot of Pinot character and more like a Syrah; tastes
acidified; rather strange wine for Pinot but not unpleasant.
- Tantara
Santa Lucia Highlands Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir (14.5%)
2000: Med.dark color; very spicy/cinammon/cloves/nutmeg
very perfumed/fragrant/aromatic violets/floral/cherry slight
volatile some light/toasty/pungent/oak nose; softer very
spicy/cloves/nutmeg very perfumed/fragrant strong black
cherry/cherry/cola/Pinot Noir light toasty/oak flavor; very
long/ lingering black cherry/Pinot/floral/violets very spicy/cloves/nutmeg
light toasty/oak finish w/ some tannins; needs a few yrs;
a wonderfully fragrant version of Pinot.
- Talley
Vineyards Pinot Noir ArroyoGrande (14.3%; EB) 2000:
Med.light color; rather pungent/toasty/oak/ charred some
fragrant/black cherry/soda pop/Pinot Noir slight hybridy/plastic
nose; tart bit lean/ angular light cherry/black cherry/Nehi
soda pop slight plastic rather charred/toasty/pungent/ oak
flavor; med. toasty/charred/pungent light cherry/soda pop/black
cherry finish w/ light tannins; pleasant if slightly strange
Pinot.
- Talley
Vineyard Rosemary's Vineyard Pinot Noir (EB; #6960 of 7493;
www.TalleyVineyards.com; 14.5%) 2000: Med.color; more
intense black cherry/Pinot Noir slight earthy some charred/toasty/Fr.oak
rather attractive nose; soft rather black cherry/Pinot Noir/cherry
rather toasty/charred/Fr.oak/pungent flavor; med.long rather
black cherry/cola/floral slight earthy fairly charred/toasty/pungent/
Fr.oak finish w/ some tannins; needs a yr or two; quite
nice Pinot Noir but bit pricey for what it is. $60.00
- Bonaccorsi
Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir (14.2%; www.BonaWine.net)
2001: Med.dark color; fragrant/ spicy/black cherry/cola/Pinot
Noir some toasty/pencilly/Fr.oak rather interesting nose;
soft/rich black cherry/cherry/cola/Dr.Pepper quite spicy
some toasty/charred/Fr.oak bit complex/earthy/ mushroomy/Burgundian
flavor; long/soft rather black cherry/cola some toasty/charred/Fr.oak
slight earthy/truffly finish w/ some tannins; needs yr or
two; very nicely made/interesting Pinot at very fair price.
$36.00
- Brewer-Clifton
Rozak Ranch Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir (15.8%; 2160 btls)
2001: Med.light color; very perfumed/aromatic cheap-perfume/flowery
almost Marzeminno or Freisa-like exotic/bizarre light pencilly/Fr.oak
nose; tart light/bit thin slight cherry very exotic/flowery/perfumed
slight fumey light pencilly/oak flavor; med. lean/thin very
exotic/perfumed/flowery delicate light pencilly finish w/
little tannins; a very bizarre rendition of Pinot but kind
of interesting; a bit of hotness on the palate.
- Societe
Civile du Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezaux (#859 of
14,651; MaD; 13%) 1999: Dark color; some black cherry/chocolaty
slight earthy/mushroomy bit smokey/oak/ pungent straightforward
Pinot Noir nose; bit hard/tannic fairly rich quite black
cherry/chocolate slight floral/violets some earthy/dusty/old
vines slight pencilly/toasty/pungent flavor; med.long chocolate/black
cherries slight earthy/mushroomy slight pungent/smokey/oak
finish w/ some tannins; needs a few yrs to show, seems a
bit tight & closed; much like a pretty mainstream Calif
Pinot Noir of the Siduri style; pretty pricey at $130.00
- David
Bruce Santa Cruz Mtn Pinot Noir Estate (15.3%) 1980:
Med.light color w/ some bricking; rather weird/herbal nose
clears to very pencilly/Burgundian/fragrant some tobaccoy/old-Cab/charred
rather complex nose w/ no fruit; tart very toasty/charred/pungent/tobaccoy/Burgundian
complex flavor; bit astringent/dried-out very pencilly/toasty/charred/smokey/tobaccoy
some Burgundian/complex finish; a bit over the hill but
some interesting Burgundian/old Pinot/ complex character.
- Nalle
Sonoma County Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Hopkins Ranch
(13.7%) 1999: Med.light color; very fragrant/cherry/bright/spicy
perfumed slight dusty/earthy some pencilly/Fr.oak nose;
tart pencilly/Fr.oak bright cherry/zippy/soda pop almost
Zinberry flavor; med.long bright/zippy/ cherry/soda pop
some pencilly/Fr.oak finish w/ light tannins; lots of bright
fruit; tastes like a Pino made by a Zin producer!!
- Sebastiani
Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (13.5%) 2000: Med.color; rather
grapey/soupy some earthy slight tanky simple/grapey little
Pinot nose; soft rather grapey/soupy slight tanky some earthy/
clunky flavor; med.short soft soupy finish w/ little tannins;
pretty well obliterated any Pinot character in this wine;
OK for the $12.00 price but not much Pinot character.
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And
some words from the BloodyPulpit:
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The DRC: Hadn't seen a DRC wine for a half-reasonable price
in years. Hadn't had a DRC in a goodly number of yrs. Used
to buy them when in college from the dreadful '65 vintage
but at a price in the upper-teens. So thought this would
be a good time to return to my RedBurg roots. The wine was
served as a mystery wine. Virtually everyone who commented
picked it out as a Calif Pinot. I even tried to sucker LarryA
into choosing betwixt RussianRiver or Santa Barbara; but
he wisely refused to take the bait. Had I not known the
wine, I think I would have picked it as a Siduri, possibly
from BienNacido Vineyard (Adam doesn't make such a wine,
though). It was very Calif/international in style. Nary
a trace of RedBurg I could find, save a slight earthiness
to it. Not that much tannin, but it may evolve into something
very good, though I have my doubts it'll ever a achieve
greatness. Certainly not worth $130 IMHO.
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Brewer-Clifton: This winery is, of course, recently annointed
by certain Monktown attourneys as one of Calif's great Pinot
producers. I've followed Steve & Greg's wines from the
very start when they first showed them at a WineCask futures
tasting and have, in general, liked their Pinots & Chards
quite a lot. Didn't try the 2000 ones because of their RP-induced
scarcity; but I had my Siduris, so wasn't lacking for good
Pinot. Some people thought the alcohol really showed on
this wine, though I didn't find it all that objectionable.
I did find the wine totally bizarre, very eccentric. It
did not speak much of Pinot Noir to me; though I'm not very
big on demanding that a varietal display typicity. I did,
however, like the wine.
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Dehlinger Pinots: Tom Dehlinger never seems to stumble when
it comes to Pinots. Consistently one of my favorites w/
a spiciness to them that always speaks of Dehlinger. This
was a good comparison betwixt the Pommard and the Swan clones.
On the nose, I found the Pommard to be a bit more earthy/Burgundian
in character and more elegant/delicate on the palate. On
the nose, the Swan was more fragrant/perfumed but a bit
more clunky/Calif-style on the palate and needing more age.
Both were terrific Pinots and a real step up over the regular
Estate.
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Fiddlehead Fiddlestix: Kathy Joseph was pouring this at
the SantaBarbara Harvest Festival last Oct and I was very
impressed by it. We had it a couple of months ago in a tasting
and I was rather underwhelmed by it. Tonights version was
terrific; lots of oak but plenty of Pinot fruit and a certain
kind of minerality and structure to it that I really liked.
This fairly new Vineyard of Kathy's is located in the western
SantaRitaHills, not too far from Peter Cargassachi's Vineyard.
We're seeing some mightly impressive Pinots from the SteRitaHills.
The best is yet to come.
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Tantara Wines: First tasted these at the SantaBarbara Harvest
Festival and then, the next day, at their Open House. Owned
by Bill Cates & Jeff Fink, they are making some very
well- made wines. They're located on the BienNacido property,
just across the creek from that "Like Wines from Incestuous
Minds" winery of Qupe/ABC/...... the list goes on and on.
A winery to keep your eyes on. Proud to say that "I followed
them from the very start". Eventually they will be making
Syrah, always a good sign for an up&coming winery.
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Bonaccorsi: This is the fourth one of Mike Bonaccorsi's
wines I've had, and probably the best one yet. He's the
winemaker at Spago restaurant in LA and very much knows
what he's doing. His wines are sourced from a bunch of different
Vineyards in Santa Barbara and Edna Valleys. The Red Monkey
Syrah, which I stumbled onto at a restaurant in Denver,
is a very good Syrah for $21, worth tracking down.
TomHill
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© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
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