by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

1. HarlequinViognier: I've followed Calif (and USofA) Viognier from the very start. It's been an exciting journey to watch the styles evolve. The early ones clearly were in the direction of the DollyParton style: big/ripe/lush/loads of Viognier fruit/jiggly/silicone-laden wines. Often they were made like a Chard w/ a strong hit of toasty/Fr.oak. Over the last 5-10 yrs we've seen a lot less oak in the wines, more subtlety, more expression of terroir.. much more interesting wines. That being said, I've still not seen that expression of minerality, combined w/ the perfume and fragrance that you get in authentic/great Condrieu. The wines, good as they are, just seem to often lack that little extra kick you find in great Condrieu. Probably some of the best I've had have been a few of the older Edmunds StJohn versions. Not great Condrieu, but very complex wines. I first had this '03 Harlequin at Robert Goodfriend's home at dinner a few weeks ago. Thought it was awfully good at the time, but there were a lot of very good wines that night. Had it a few days later at Don & Jan's dinner and thought.."Wow...this is damn good Viognier/ Condrieu." Then when I had it in my tasting, I was blown away by it. My statement then was this is the greatest, most Condrieu-like Viognier ever produced in the USofA; that I've ever had. I was not alone in my liking of this wine; my group wound up ordering 9 cases of it; an obstreperous/contentious group of head-strong folk who seldom heed my blatherings.
2. FullDisclosure: Robert Goodfriend and I go way back as personal friends. He used to own/chef my favorite SantaFe restaurants of all time, e.k.mas. I'd go in there all the time w/ my kids and, unlike many restaurants, they'd get first-class attention and treatment. Even a pour of the wine. Since he left SantaFe, I've kept in touch with him over the yrs. When he and his wife, Elizabeth Cook, started Harlequin; I've followed their wines from the very start. This last batch I tasted when I stayed with them a few weeks ago are probably the best yet I've had from Harlequin. That being said, I think the quality of the wines speak for themselves; Harlequin doesn't need a shill. I am NOT a crook...opps, that was Richard Milhouse... I am NOT a shill!! Anyway, I think the Viognier is worth a try. The price is very reasonable. Available at Robert's wine bar in Seattle..The Tasting Room/Wines of Washington (www.winesofwashington.com).
3. Harlequin CheninBlanc: Not to sound like a broken record, but this was probably the best example of a USofA CB I've ever had. Not in the style of a D'Agneau or Loire CB; but in its own unique style. It reminded me some of some of the early Chalone CBs w/ age on them, w/o the strong toasty/oak they always showed. It's a variety that gets no respect in the US and rightlfully so; most are rather simple/off-dry/drecky examples of the variety. Robert barrel ferments his in old/neutral oak. There are a fair number of old-vine (relatively speaking for WashState) CB vnyds that he want to get to afore they're ripped out. Alas, this '02 is already long sold out. Don Chappellet also makes a great old-vine CB. Alas as well, those vines have been ripped out for more profitable Cabernet.
4. Scott Harvey Wines: This is a guy I've followed from the very start, from his first days at Santino, then Renwood, then Folie a Deux. The wines he was making at Renwood afore he left for FaD were probably the greatest Amador reds, Barberas and Zins and Syrahs, ever made up there. With the sale of FaD to SutterHome, he has now gone out on his own to focus in his Scott Harvey wines, with wife Jana. For the time, they plan to remain in the Napa Valley, but still source grapes from his Amador contacts. These wines we tasted represent a departure from his style at Renwood. There, the focus was on the intensity and extract. These new wines are much more balanced, more polished and svelte, more drinkable; yet I suspect they will age quite well. It'll be interesting to follow his wines into the future.

   TomHill