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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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Northwest Rhones
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August 18, 2004
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- Buttonwood
Santa Ynez Valley Marsanne (13%) 2002: Med.light
gold color; slight volatile/EA very fragrant/floral almost Viognier-like
very perfumey nose; bit hot/fumey very floral/ perfumey slight
herbal/green olive rather rich flavor; very long buttery/floral/perfumey/
peachy finish; not the usual austerity of Marsanne and more like
a Viognier in character; very attractive white for the price.
$12.00
- Penner-Ash
Oregon Viognier (14.0%) Rogue River Valley 2003: Med.light
gold color; lovely peach/pear/Viognier/fragrant slight earthy/minerally
nose; big/ripe/lush/rich floral/pear/ Viognier/peach slight minerally
flavor; very long rich/lush very pear/peach/Viognier light minerally
finish; big/rich/lush but a sturdy acid backbone; terrific Viognier
w/ a nice mineral character; fairly priced at $25.00
- Buttonwood
Santa Ynez Valley Syrah Rose (12.8%; www.ButtonwoodWinery.com)
2003: Pale salmon/red color; rather spicy/cinammon/fragrant
watermelon slight herbal pleasant nose; soft/fat buttery/grapey/strawberry/watermelon
slight herbal flavor; med.short grapey/lush rather strawberry/watermelon
finish; would like a bit more acidity in a rose but interesting
wine. $16.00
- Buttonwood
Santa Ynez Valley Syrah (13.3%) 2001: Med.color; some strange
herbal/band-aid/vinyl plastic slight Syrah/black berry bit earthy/oaked
nose; tart slight vinyl plastic/herbal bit bretty light blackberry/Syrah
flavor; med.long light blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry light oaked
some herbal finish w/ light tannins; rather a strange/atypical
Syrah and almost seems on the underripe side. $22.00
- Penner-Ash
Oregon Rubeo red,red wine (14%; PinotNoir/Syrah 2002: Med.color;
rather fragrant/Syrah/licorice/blackberry slight pungent/oak nose;
tart bit hard/tannic slight bretty some blackberry/licorice some
cherry/black cherry light pungent/oak flavor; med.long hard/austere/tannic
slight walnutty/cherry light pungent/oak finish; seems dominated
by underripe Pinot more than anything; interesting & needs
age; some like the Ojai Travail d' l'Anglais blend w/o the richness.
$19.00
- Andrew
Rich Vintners Columbia Valley Coup d'Etat (14.1%; 31% Grenache,
30% Mourvedre, 21% Counoise, 18% Syrah) 2002: Med.dark color;
rather earthy/chocolaty slight blackberry/ perfumed light toasty/oak
quite interesting some complex nose; soft/lush blackberry/ boysenberry
some earthy/mushroomy rather toasty/smokey/oak flavor; long bit
earthy some blackberry/boysenberry pungent/oak finish w/ light
tannins; fairly forward & drinkable; quite an interesting
blend at a good price. $22.00
- Bethel
Heights Vineyard Syrah DelRio Vineyards/Rogue Valley/Oregon (13.9%;
www.BethelHeights.com) 2001: Very dark color; big/ripe chocolaty/licorice
some coffee/roasted/Rhonish some black- berry/Syrah bit pungent/smokey
nose; tart/rich bit tannic coffee/roasted/smokey rather chocolaty/licorice/blackberry/Syrah
somewhat Rhonish flavor; long somewhat tannic pungent/ licorice/Rhonish
blackberry/Syrah finish; needs 2-5 yrs age; a beautiful rather
Rhonish Syrah at an attractive price. $26.00
- Penner-Ash
Oregon Syrah (14.5%; www.PennerAsh.com) Columbia Valley/RogueRiver
Valley 2002: Very dark color; strong pure/varietal/blackberry/boysenberry/black
cherry rather gamey/meaty slight herbal some roasted/toasty/smokey
nose; tart licorice/black cherry/blackberry/Syrah slight meaty/roasted
bit tannic flavor; long bit hard/tannic gamey/meaty strong blackberry/
licorice/Syrah slight roasted/smokey finish; needs several yrs;
probably the best Oregon Syrah I've yet tried. $30.00
- Andrew
Rich Vintners Columbia Valley Counoise (14.1%) 2002: Dark
color; strong black cherry/ boysenberry very perfumed slight earthy
quite interesting nose; tart bit hard/tannic rich/ spicy/black
cherry/Christmas candy/minty slight dusty flavor; long black cherry/minty/
boysenberry slight licorice fairly tannic finish; needs some age;
rather hard & tannic on the palate but very interesting/exotic
nose. $25.00
- Andrew
Rich Vintners Columbia Valley Mourvedre Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
(14.1%) 2002: Dark color; slight earthy/musty (corked?) very
interesting pungent/licorice/sausage/plummy complex some perfumey
slight volatile nose; strong/intense/extracted plummy/licorice/blackberry
exotic flavor w/ ferocious/hard tannins; very long plummy/licorice/pungent
bit dusty/earthy very hard/tannic finish; lots of rich/licorice/lush
character but a very hard/tannic backbone; needs much age; much
like a Languedoc red. $35.00
- Harlequin
Syrah Milbrandt Famile/Sundance Vineyard Columbia Valley/WahlukeSlope/WA
(14.6%; 200 cs) 2002: Very dark color; beautiful boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah
minerally/earthy some toasty/charred/pungent slighht herbal complex
nose; tart/acid somewhat hard/tannic fairly lush blackberry/licorice
slight earthy/minerally light toasted/pungent/oak flavor; very
long boysenberry/licorice pungent/minerally light toasty/charred
finish w/ fair tannins; needs several yrs; very/very good Syrah
w/ interesting minerality at a good price. $28.00
- Domino
IV Columbia Valley Syrah Klipsun & ThePines Vineyards
(14.1%) 2002: Very dark color; very strong tarry/roasted/smokey/oak/pungent
bit stemmy/herbal dusty/earthy some blackberry nose; tart/acid
rather hard/tannic loads of charred/burnt/roasted/toasty/oak slight
herbal/ blackberry flavor; med.long intense charred/burnt/toasty/oak
pungent/roasted slight Syrah/ blackberry finish w/ ample tannins;
slammed pretty hard w/ charred oak & not much fruit showing;
needs age but hard to say where it will go. $28.00
- Andrew
Rich Vintners Columbia Valley Syrah (14.1%; www.AndrewRichWines.com)
2002: Black color; very intense blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah/jammy/ripe
slight herbal/dusty rather roasted/ coffee/Rhonish bit minerally
complex nose; tart rich/ripe/boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah
some licorice/coffee/roasted/pungent minerally flavor; very long
jammy/ripe/boysenberry/ blackberry/Syrah rather roasted/espresso/pungent/licorice
finish w/ light tannins; loads of very ripe fruit & lots of
Rhonish character; great Syrah for the price. $22.00
- Andrew
Rich Vintners Columbia Valley Syrah Reserve (14.1%) 2002: Black
color; slight reduced/ pungent/stinky more pungent/toasty/roasted/oaked
more ripe/jammy bit more brighter/strawberry bit more complex
nose; big/ripe/lush bit more hard/tannic mory blackberry/boysenberry/
Syrah more charred/toasty/oak flavor; very long ripe/lush/jammy
boysenberry/blackberry strong charred/toasty/oak finish; needs
some age; a bit more of everything more than the Regular and may
age longer, but not sure it's worth the price differential; terrific
Syrah. $38.00
- Columbia
Wnry Red Willow Vineyard David Lake Signature Yakima Valley Syrah
(14.1%) 1999: Med.dark color; soft/lush very plummy/black
cherry/licorice bit earthy nose; soft/fat/flat bit earthy/ mushroomy
rather plummy/Lodi-like/licorice rather strawberry flavor; med.long
soft/fat licorice/plummy/strawberry/earthy finish w/ light tannins;
bit disappointing for DavidLake; interesting nose but too soft
& fat & lacking structure & brightness. Dotty's mystery.
$30
- Arther
Earl Calif Grenache (13%) CollinsRanch Vineyard 2000: Rather
light color; quite earthy/ dusty rather aged some grapey/strawberry
nose; soft/fat light plummy/grapey/strawberry fairly earthy/dusty
flavor; med.short soft/fat earthy/dusty slight grapey/strawberry/plummy
finish w/ little tannins; some like a 10 yr old Clos du Gilroy;
old afore its time. Steve Costigan mystery. $20.00
- Destefanis
Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Monia Bassa (14%) 2001: Very dark color;
some earthy/ plummy bit oaked slight cardboardy nose; quite hard/lean/tannic
quite acid some grapey/ earthy/plummy/dusty flavor; med.long hard/acid/tannic
light earthy/dusty/plummy/grapey finish w/ hard tannins; needs
some age; interesting nose but very hard/austere on the palate.
Larry's mystery. $20.00
Some
thoughts from the Bloody Pulpit:
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OregonRhones: I'd had the RockBlock (Domaine Serene) Syrah
at HdR, with grapes from the RogueRiver Valley area, and
was quite impressed. These two Syrahs were equally, maybe
more so, impressive. I was kinda expecting these Oregon
Syrahs to taste like...maybe a Syrah made by a Pinot producer.
But they don't. Definitely first-rate Syrah w/ a lot of
Rhonish character. These Oregon folks are starting off with
a bang. We all can follow them from the very start, too.
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Andrew Rich Counoise/Mourvedre: The few Calif Counoise I've
had have not been impressive. A pretty fragrance but rather
hard/lean/tannic on the palate. The AR Counoise is by far
the best Counoise I've had, though the TablasCreek is close.
Much more richness & texture than any I've had. The
Mourvedre was also very/very impressive. With the ferocious
tannins it shows, it'll be interesting to see where this
wine goes.
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AndrewRichVintners: I'd not had any of his Rhones before
that I recall, but I'm going to be tracking them more closely
now. All pretty impressive wines I thought. Even more amazing...
he's so on top of his vnyds that all the wines came out
at 14.1% alc!! :-)
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NorthWestRhones: No surprise to anybody who's been following
them from the very start.. Syrahs from Washington, and now
Oregon it looks like, are some of the most impressive most
Rhonish wines from the USofA. Unlike their early Cabs &
Merlots, which were often clobbered w/ toasty/charred/FrenchOak;
they seem much more restrained in their oak usage w/ Syrah.
These wines seem to much more routinely display their NW
terroir than one can usually ferret out the terroir in the
Calif versions. I'd love to see what SteveEdmunds can do
with WashState Syrah.
TomHill
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© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
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