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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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Garretson Wines - January 21, 2004
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- Sierra
Vista ElDorado Viognier (14.3%; EB) 2002:
Light gold color; lovely Viognier/pear/ peach slight metallic/earthy
nose; soft/fat fairly lush light pear/Viognier bit simple
flavor; med. soft/fat/lush light/clean pear/Viognier/peach
slight earthy finish; a really lovely nose but doesn't quite
deliver the intensity on the palate. $25.00
- Charles
Back/Fairview Viognier (14.5%) PaarlMtn/SouthAfrica 2002:
Light gold color; rather pencilly/oak appley/Chard-like
very slight pear/Viognier nose; soft/flabby rather pencilly/oak
ratherr appley/melony/pear some metallic/earthy flavor;
med.short soft/fat light appley/melony slight metallic finish;
tastes like very high-yield wine; very little Viognie character
& more like a Chard w/ all the oak. No bargin at $15.50
- Garretson
Viognier Paso Robles "The Chumhra" (14.2%; 300 cs) 2002:
Med.gold color; very intense perfumed/fragrant intense
peach/Viognier very aromatic almost GWT-like nose; off-dry
big/rich/lush intense pear/peach/Viognier very DollyParton-style
loads of intense Viognier fruit flavor; very long spicy/lush
intense peachy/pear/Viognier soft off-dry finish; big/ripe
very DollyParton Viognier. $20.50
- Garretson
Viognier Central Coast "The Saothar" (15.2%; 400 cs) 2002:
Med.gold cloudy/hazy color; lower key fragrant/pear/Viognier
some minerally/spicy slight pencilly nose; some ripe/lush
perfumed/pear/Viognier slight pencilly/oak bit minerally/spicy
soft flavor; long pear/Viognier very lush soft bit minerally/spicy/earthy
finish; lish intense Viognier character but a bit more interesting;
lovely low-key bit porky Viognier. $17.00
- Renwood
Amador Cnty Viognier (14.5%; #2374 of 420 cs) 1993: Med.gold
color; fragrant pencilly/oak complex/mature slight minerally
very light pear/Viognier nose; soft/fat some oak/toasty/pencilly
very light/pear/Viognier bit pungent/old Chard/nutty minerally
flavor; med. soft/fat slight pungent/nutty very light pear/floral
some pencilly/oak finish; still hanging in there and rather
interesting but mostly a survivor.
- Garretson
Roussanne Paso Robles "The Limoid Cior" (14.8%; 400 cs)
2002: Med.gold rather cloudy/hazy color; beautiful fragrant/floral/honeysuckle
spicy/minerally/lemony almost Viognier/perfumed slight toasty/oak
nose; off-dry ripe/lemony/floral/honeysuckle light toasty/oak
flavor; very long/lingering very lemony/floral/honeysuckle/spicy
bit minerally soft/lush finish; beautiful lemony/honeysuckle
very exotic Roussanne at a great price. $22.60
- Garretson
Roussanne Santa Barbara County "The Limoid Cior" (14.3%;
56% westerly Vineyard, 44% Stolpman Vineyard) 2001: Med.gold/clear
color; powerful/fragrant spicy/minerally/honeysuckle some
citrus/lemon/lime/Buddah'sHand slight honeyed/butterscotchy
nose; soft/lush ripe/ minerally/honeysuckle/lemon/toilet
bowl cleaner/perfumed rich/round slight nutty/honeyed flavor;
very long soft/round/rich/lush lemony/honeysuckle/floral
slight hazelnutty finish; starting to show some secondary/complexity
already; beautiful/lush Calif Roussanne. $21.00
- Garretson
Grenache Rozet Vineyard Paso Robles "The Spainneach" (13.8%;
100 cs) 2001: Dark color; very strong strawberry/blackberry/Grenache
slight toasty/oak quite spicy/mocha/cocao nose; tart very
Grenache/strawberry bit blackberry some mocha/cocoa very
lush/spicy bit plummy flavor; long tart very lush/spicy/Grenache/strawberry
light mocha/cocoa finish w/ light tannins; not a bruiser
like an Alban, but not just a pretty face either; a Grenache
w/ some structure and depth, needs a yr or two; terrific
example of Grenache. $20.50
- Garretson
Mourvedre Hastings Ranch Paso Robles "The Graosta" (13.6%;
100 cs) 2001: Very dark/ near black color; deep boysenberry/plummy
bit licorice/pungent/herbal some complex/dusty/ earthy slight
tarry nose; soft very lush/plummy/licorice/chocolaty/tarry
quite spicy falvor; very long plummy/lush/licorice/tarry
loads of spicy/fruit slight funky/wild finish w/ light tannins;
an impressive wine at a great price. $17.80
- Garretson
Syrah Paso Robles "The Aisling" (14.2%; 400 cs) 2001:
Dark color; strong waxy/ blackberry/blueberry very ripe/overripe
smokey/bacon fat earthy/dusty light toasty/mocha/ oak rather
jammy/Aussie nose; very soft/fat ripe/overripe plummy/blackberry/boysenberry/
jammy/Oz-like light toasty/oak/mocha flavor; med.short soft/fat
jammy/blackberry/boysen- berry/Syrah light toasty finish
w/ light tannins; a SumoWrestler of a Syrah; bit too jummy/
over-the-top for me; lacks acid & structure; bit like
a ClosMimi Syrah w/o the attitude; last of the Fralich Syrah.
$25.50
- Garretson
Syrah Paso Robles "The Aisling" (14.1%) 2000: Very dark
color; very strong blackberry/pencilly/toasty/oak some roasted/bacon
fat bit reduced/pungent some complex nose; tart bit reduced/pungent/funky/charred
some pencilly/oak light blackberry/spicy/ Syrah flavor;
med. pencilly/oak bit roasted/charred light blackberry/blueberry/Syrah
finish w/ light tannins; more in an Eberle style of Syrah;
interesting wine. $20.00
- Garretson
Syrah Central Coast "The Craic" (14%; 404 cs) 2001: Very
dark color; intense blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah some coffee/mocha/toasty/oak/bacon
fat fairly complex nose; soft/fat very lush boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah
some coffee/mocha bit overripe flavor; long very ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
fat/porky light espresso/coffee/mocha finish w/ light tannins;
lots of very ripe/overripe Syrah character, almost Oz in
style; a very good Syrah at a great price. $20.50
- Garretson
Syrah Rozet Vineyard Paso Robles "The Luascain" (14%; 200
cs) 2001: Black color; intense blackberry/blueberry/Syrah
spicy/peppery some menthol/toasty/minerally slight dusty/earthy
nose; tart/hard very spicy/peppery/blackberry/Syrah some
toasty/menthol/oak rather tannic/austere flavor; very long
very peppery/spicy/blackberry/Syrah some toasty/ pungent/oak/menthol
finish w/ hard tannins; needs 2-5 yrs age yet; big Syrah
but on the hard/austere side; terrific wine. $34.50
- Garretson
Syrah Hoage Vineyard "The Bulladoir" (14%; 100 cs) 2001:
Very dark color; strong blackberry/Syrah spicy/minerally
some toasty/charred/oak bit minerally nose; tart bit lean/hard/pinched
very spicy/blackberry/Syrah slight toasty/charred/oak slight
mocha flavor; very long rather hard/lean/pinched spicy/blackberry/Syrah
light toasty/oak finish; a terrific nose but doesn't quite
deliver on the palate; needs more age; very fairly priced
at $24.00.
- Garretson
Syrah MonAmie Bassetti Vineyard San Luis Cnty (13.8%; 100
cs) 2001: Black color; slight bretty/funky/Rhonish very
peppery/cold-climate Syrah/blackberry/minerally light toasty/
charred/Fr.oak some complex/roasted/meaty nose; tart very
peppery/spicy/blackberry/Syrah/ minerally slight Rhonish/horsecollar/leathery
flavor; very long peppery/spicy/blackberry/ Syrah some toasty/charred/Fr.oak
slight Rhonish/leathery fairly complex finish w/ fair tannins;
needs 2-5 yrs of age; pricey but an exceptional Syrah. $38.00
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Clearly,
Mat's wines deserve a BloodyPulpit:
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Garretson prices are all futures prices plus shipping.
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I've followed John MacCready's Viogniers from the very start.
The early ones were a bit lean & hard, but he's very
much mastered the variety now and makes one of the best
(the Cedarville being the other one I really like) SierraFoothills
Viogniers. They always have wonderful aromatics, but show
some restraint on the palate and never over-the-top.
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The two Garretson Viogniers were an interesting contrast.
The Paso was very DollyParton in style with loads of in-your-face
Viognier fruit. I actually preferred the Central Coast version
as being a bit more interesting, despite having less blatent
Viognier character. For a MrViognier wine, I actually much
preferred his Roussannes. Go figure!!
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Two of the wines were pretty hazy/cloudy, which made me
a bit concerned. Mat assured me not to worry. They didn't
fall a bright as he would have preferred, but chose not
to do a Polish filteration on them in order not to take
anything from them. Just a cosmetic problem.
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Renwood Viognier: This was, I believe, Scott Harvey's first
Viognier at Renwood. In its youth, it was a huge/rich/luscious
DollyParton Viognier; loaded w/ ripe fruit. Though the wine
had not gone bad and is still in good shape, it's not gone
much of anywhere either. Of course, the current Renwood
Viogniers don't hold a candle to what Scott did there.
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Grenache&Mourvedre: I already knew that Mat could make
great Syrah. The two wines I was really taken by were both
the Grenache and the Mourvedre. The Grenache was one of
the most impressive ones I've had from Calif. Not in the
Alban league, but getting close. Likewise, the Mourvedre
was one of the best I've yet had from Calif. In the league
w/ some of Steve Edmunds and Dave Corey's. It has the structure
that you don't often find in the Mourvedres from ContraCosta.
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The Syrahs: A very interesting group of Syrahs. All of them
were most distinctive from one another; they all displayed
their differing vnyd sources. Yet, unlike Novy who makes
a range of Syrahs that are distinctive in character, but
similar in style; these Syrahs did not show anything to
me that shouted "Garretson" in their style. A very interesting
bunch and all well-made. Almost as if Mat was wanting to
let the terroir speak it's voice, and not pound them all
into the same mold. Whatta concept!! The Rozet was my (slight)
favorite over the Bassetti; a bit simpler and more straight-
forward in Syrah character; it was bigger & more structured
for the long haul than the Bassetti I thought; a bit harder
& leaner. Probably the best Rozet Syrah or Rozet red
I've yet had. If Steve Edmunds & Mat believe in this
vnyd; we'd best keep our eye on it. I was expecting a bit
more from the Hoage Syrah. This is what was formerly the
Ken Winchester Vineyard. It was not quite as big & extracted
as I expected. But it is priced very fairly and probably
a vnyd that will deliver more in the future I would guess.
The Bassetti Vineyard is clearly one of Calif's great Syrah
vnyds. Steve Edmunds, Augie Hug, and Mat all make exceptional
Syrahs from that vnyd. Alas, in 2002, Ellis Bassetti's crop
was pretty much a total loss. So sad. But the Syrahs coming
from this vnyd are very much like Al Rago's Que Syrah vnyd
w/ that very spicy/cold-climate/peppery Syrah. Cold-climate
is where it's at for Syrah.
TomHill
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Copyright
© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
No original material may be reproduced without written consent
Mail & Comments
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