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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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Aromatic Whites - November 3, 2004
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- Bonny
Doon Le Sophiste WTW (52% Marsanne, 48% Roussanne) Santa Cruz
Mountains 1989: Med.dark
gold color; light toasty/pungent/nutmeg/cloves/oak fragrant slight
hazelnutty fairly perfumed/complex nose; tart rather lush/rich
spicy/nutmeg/cloves bit appley/nutty/ toasted hazelnuts flavor;
long lush/tart complex quite spicy/nutmeg finish; a lovely/ rich
complex wine that's still in good shape. $24.00
- Bonny
Doon Le Sophiste WTW (81.25% Marsanne, 18.75% Roussanne) Santa
Cruz Mountains 1990: Med.gold color; rather oxidized/nutty
slight fusel oil quite unattractive nose; tart rather bitter fairly
oxidized/nutty/toasty/pungent unpleasant flavor; lots of oak and
pretty oxidized; DOA. $26.50
- Bonny
Doon LeS ophiste WTW (73% Marsanne, 27% Roussanne) Santa Cruz
Mountains 1991: Med. yellow gold color; attractive spicy/hazelnutty
slight old Riesling/waxy light toasty/ oak quite complex nose;
soft/rich/lush complex bit honeyed/old Riesling spicy/hazel- nutty
lovely/complex flavor; med.long lush hazelnutty/honey comp[lex
finish; good old RhoneBlanc character w/ a touch of old Riesling
character; lovely/complex wine. $25.30
- Bonny
Doon Le Sophiste (77% Marsanne, 23% Roussanne; 14.4%) Santa Cruz
Mountains 1992: Med.yellow color; slight SO2/used fireworks/burnt
gunpowder/pungent/smokey slight hazelnutty/spicy complex nose;
tart beautiful lush/rich very spicy/pungent/ smokey bit pencilly/oak
complex hazelnutty/nutmeg/spicy flavor; very long rich/tart spicy/hazelnutty
light pencilly/pungent/smokey quite complex finish; a beautiful
complex wine. $25.00
- Edmunds
St. John El Dorado County Pinot Grigio (14.5%) 1998: Med.yellow
color; attractive slight fusel oil/petrolly very floral/fragrant
slight smokey/pungent/earthy perfumey nose; rich/textured/oily
rather Alsatian/floral some smokey/pungent light earthy/ petrol
flavor; very long rich/textured some smokey/pungent/petrolly rather
floral/ fragrant finish; first Calif Pinot Grigio I've ever had
that displays some similarity to older Alsatian PGs; beautiful
amazingly good wine. $14.00
- Edmunds
St. John El Dorado Pinot Grigio Witters Vnyd (13%) 2002: Light
yellow color; lovely fragrant/citrusy/grapefruity/perfumed talc
some perfumed/fragrant/floral nose; tarter bit lean citrusy/perfumed
talc some minerally/floral slight bitter flavor; med. rather lean/earthy/tight
citrusy/grapefruity slight perfumed talc/floral finish; much more
Italian in style; bit on the tight side and needs a bit of age.
$19.00
- Cold
Heaven Santa Ynez Valley Viognier (13.5%) 1997: Light yellow
color; rather piney/ oxidized/metallic unattractive slight nutty/tobaccoy
nose; soft rather piney lean/ thin some oxidized/metallic flavor;
med. oxidized/nutty piney/PineSol finish; strange rather linew/thin/piney
wine and not at all attractive; a goner. $18.00
- Cold
Heaven Santa Barbara County / Sanford & Benedict Vnyd Viognier
(13.5%) 1996: Light yellow color; quite interesting rather
perfumed/spicy slight pear/Viognier bit Mosel/valve oil complex
nose; tart/lean quite spicy some pera/Viognier rather lean/minerally
light oak/tobaccoy flavor; med.long minerally/spicy light pear/Viognier
bit stoney/pungent/ tobaccoy finish; a rather interesting minerally
Chablis-like Viognier; still has Viognier varietal character present.
$25.00
- Edmunds
St. John Viognier Paso Robles Rozet Vnyd (13.9%) 2003: Pale
yellow color; lovely perfumed/pear/peach/Viognier rather spicy/nutmeg
pure Viognier nose; soft quite lush peach/pear/Viognier some spicy/nutmeg/melony
very ripe flavor; very long soft/fat very lush/ripe pear/peach/Viognier
rather spicy slight smokey/pungent finish; loads of very ripe
Viognier character; classic DollyParton Viognier wearing loads
of French whorehouse perfume. $27.00
- Alban
Vineyards Edna Valley Viognier (14.3%) 1997: Med.gold color;
very ripe/rotted apples some toasty/smokey/oak bit nutty/hazelnutty
some vanilla/Bourbon interesting nose; tart/lean very ripe/overripe
toasty/smokey/oak rather rotted apples nutty/hazelnutty flavor;
long overripe/rotted apples quite smoky/pungent/oak finish; rather
weird wine; not at all unattractive but quite strange. $22.00
- Edmunds
St. John blonk! Paso Robles White Wine (44% Roussanne, 37% Viognier,
19% Marsanne; 14.1%) 2002: Med.gold color; some toasty/smoky/pungent
lovely/fragrant floral/honeysuckle/perfumed very interesting nose;
tart bit smoky/pungent/toasty rich/ lush floral/honeysuckle rather
spicy flavor; long tart/lush/rich rather smoky/pungent ver floral/honeysuckle
finish; more oak than most EdStJ but restrained and gives the
wine an exotic smoky character; a steal at $14.60
- Edmunds
St. John Los Robles Viejos Paso Robles WhiteW ine Rozet Vnyd (13.3%;
39% Viognier, 33% Roussanne, 28% Marsanne) 2003: Light gold
color; lovely floral/honeysuckle/pear very perfumed slight stony/minerally
quite interesting nose; tart some honeysuckle/ floral/pear/apple
blossom rather hard/minerally/stony very lush/ripe some Rhonish
flavor; very long lush/ripe/tart floral/pear quite spicy/minerally
finish; lots of lush richness but a minerally Rhone-like backbone;
terrific Rhone-style white. $27.00
- Weingut
Prager GrunerVeltliner Weissenkirchen Smaragd Achleiten (13%)
2002: Light yellow color; very perfumed/floral/aromatic slight
earthy/grapey nose; very tart/hard/acid very lush/ripe bit stony/earthy
slight smoky/herbal floral/fruity/grapey flavor; very long/hard/acidic
very ripe/lush smoky/earthy stony/floral/spicy finish that goes
on&on; needs much age; hard & acidic but lots of richness;
will go 10-20 yrs. $39.00
- Luna
Rosa New Mexico Minbres Valley Viognier (12.8%) 2002: Med.yellow
color; very strong Fr.oaked/toasty/butterscotchy/caramel/tobaccoy/vanilla
bit perfumed/floral/pear nose; very soft/fat intense tobaccoy/charred/Fr.oak
slight pear/grapey flavor; med.short soft/flabby/underacid loads
of charred/tobaccoy/oak finish; weird stuff w/ loads & loads
of toasty oak; little Viognier character. $12.00
- Garretson
Taistelai Roussanne (14.8%) Lake Cnty 2003: Med.gold color;
very ripe/ overripe strong citrusy/lime/apple/peach slight volatile/EA
bit alcoholic nose; soft very ripe limey/citrusy peach/floral/perfumed
slight alcoholic/fumey slight vanilla/ oak flavor; soft/fat long
citrusy/lime/citron bit alcoholic very ripe/fat finish; showing
lots of ripe/overripe character w/ attractive lime/citrus character;
pretty exotic stuff. $24.00
- Domaine
Ogereau Anjou (14%; Sec) Vincent Ogereau/St.Lambert du Lattay
2003: Pale yellow color; rather chalky/stony quite perfumed/melony/CB
spicy lovely nose; very tart/lean quite chalky/minerally/stony
light melony/CB earthy fairly rich flavor; long very stony/minerally/chalky/earthy
some perfumed/CB/melony lean/hard finish; very classic dry Anjou
that will live 10-15 yrs. Great price. $14.00
- Domaine
Ogereau Coteaux du Layon Saint Lambert (12.5%) 2002: Light
gold color; lovely peachy/apricotty/botrytis bit chalky/minerally
some complex nose; very tart/chalky/ minerally some botrytis/peachy/apricotty
slightly sweet complex primary flavor; very long tart/minerally/chalky
some botrytis/peachy/apricotty slight CB/melony finish; very primary
in character and needs much time; easily 10-20 maybe 30 yrs. A
steal at $24.00
- Cold
Heaven Santa Ynez Valley/Sanford & BenedictVnyd Late Harvest
Viognier (15%) 1997: Deep gold bit hazy/cloudy color; intense
botrytis/peachy overripe/figgy complex nose; soft ripe/ overripe
botrytis/figgy/peachy/apricotty/pear slight cedary/pencilly bit
hot/volatile flavor; long sweet strong botrytis/peachy very ripe/overripe
slightly hot finish; lots of overripe fruit character w/ fair
amount of botrytis; kinda strange but interesting dessert wine;
no Viognier character. $21.00/hlf
More
wisdom from the Bloody Pulpit:
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LeSophiste: I've followed this wine from the very start.
Since Randall had the first commercial plantings of "Roussanne"
and this was the first comercially-available wine containing
"Roussanne", I was pretty excited about them. In their youth,
they were never anything to get excited about, but, since
I knew that Roussanne was a good ager, I was diligent in
collecting them. The grapes were grown in Randall's vnyd
up in Bonny Doon in the Santa Cruz Mountains. These were
those tall/heavy btls w/ the black plastic top hat in loo
of a capsule. Those suckers were boogers to get off the
btl, but nothing an epee guy couldn't handle. I've got probably
nearly a dozen of those top hats lying around...wonder if
there's a market for them?? It, of course, turned out that
Randall's "Roussanne" was not true Roussanne after all but,
in fact, Viognier. In their youth, I never got much of the
Viognier fragrance from these wines, even at the small component
level these were, but that's not too surprising. I wouldn't
expect SCM Viognier to smell like ordinary Viognier anyway.
I was quite amazed as to how well this tableau had aged.
Except for the oxidized '90; they were all lovely fully-developed
wines. I've found that SCM white wines, as a rule, age remarkably
well; at least the old Ridges and Mt.Eden ones have. I can
only attribute the aging of these LeSophistes to the Marsanne
component.
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EdStJohn Pinot Grigio: Now here (like Gamay) is one grape
that gets no respect. Leave it to SteveEdmunds to champion
these Gawd-forsaken varieties....marketplace be damned!!
I had already tried the '02 version and liked it a lot;
maybe the best Calif PG I've had to date. I was not expecting
a whole lot from the '98 version (presumably also from the
WittersVnyd); in fact expected it to be shakey or gone.
Surprise.... it was in wonderful condition. Maybe the best
(non-Alsatian) PG I've ever had. Steve's interest in PG
stems from some excellent ones from Friuli that he's had.
If he can do this good with such a no-account grape; wonder
what he could do with Burger or UgniBlanc or French Colombard??
Marketplace be damned, of course.
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Prices on the EdStJ wines include shipping. A bit cheaper
in local markets.
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SteveEdmunds doesn't get the recognition he deserves for
his white wines. Some of his older Viogniers, with some
age on them, have been some of the most spectacular Calif
Viogniers I've ever had.
TomHill
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Copyright
© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
No original material may be reproduced without written consent
Mail & Comments
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