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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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McCrea and Sierra Vista Wines - October 13, 2004
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- Sierra Vista El Dorado Viognier (EB; 14.2%) 2003: Light
gold color; very attractive/fragrant pear/appley/Viognier bit
spicy/nutmeg nose; very tart bit lean/hard/tight pretty pear/Viognier
slight steely/metallic flavor; med.long very tart/acid bright/pear/apple/Viognier
finish; lovely/fragrant nose but a bit lean on the palate; almost
Alsatian in style. $25.00
- McCrea Viognier Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.3%; www.McCreaCellars.com)
2003: Med.light gold color; vbery strong ripe/peachy/Viognier
some minerally/smoky/pungent quite perfumed/ aromatic nose; tart
very rich/lush smoky/minerally some peach/ripe/Viognier bit earthy/
minerally flavor; long rich pungent/smoky/minerally very ripe/peachy
finish; quite an interesting Viognier, almost like an Alsation
wine. Great price at $19.00.
- McCrea Roussanne Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.6%) 2003:
Med.light gold color; some smoky/minerally appley/floral/honeysuckle
bit spict/cinammon complex/interesting nose; soft/rich/lush very
floral/honeysuckle/spicy/cinnamon bit earthy/minerally flavor;
long floral/honeysuckle/apple smoky/minerally quite lush slight
bitter finish; clearly a Roussanne but interesting minerality.
Great price at $19.00.
- Sawtooth Wnry Idaho Viognier (14.5%; 23% Roussanne) 2002:
Light yellow color; light smoky/ tobaccoy/toasty rather lush/floral/peachy/ripe
nose; soft bright/peachy/Viognier some candied/citrusy slight
tobaccoy flavor; bit short bright/citrusy/peach/Viognier bit fat
finish; clearly Viognier but a bit on the fat side; very nice
wine for $10.00
- McCrea Mourvedre Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.8%) 2002:
Very dark color; bit toasty/oak strong gamey/strawberry/Grenache-like/plummy
some earthy/herbal dusty/pungent very interesting nose; tart plummy/gamey
bit strawberry/licorice bit tannic/hard some toasty/ smoky/oak
flavor; very long plummy/licorice/gamey bit strawberry/dusty/earthy
finish w/ fair tannins; needs several yrs yet; bit like a rustic
Languedoc red; very interesting wine and will be interesting to
see how it evolves. $25.00
- McCrea Counoise Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.8%) 2002:
Very dark color; some earthy/ musky rather black cherry/licorice/Carignane-like
light toasty/oak nose; very bright cherry/cherry cough drop/black
cherry/licorice very hard/tannic dusty/Languedoc-like flavor;
long very bright cherry/cough drop/licorice dusty hard/tannic
finish; needs more yrs of age; lots of young Carignane-like cherry
character like a young Languedoc; pretty interesting wine that
may not outlast the tannins. $25.00
- SierraVista El Dorado Grenache (EB; 20% Syrah, 14.0%) 2003:
Med.light color; very pretty cherry/strawberry/Grenache light
ElDorado/earthy attractive nose; very tart/acid bright/ strawberry/Grenache/cherry
light earthy flavor; very tart rather tannic light cherry/ Grenache/strawberry
finish; on the light & tannic side but lots of pretty/bright
Grenache fruit. $18.75
- McCrea Sirocco Wash State (52% Grenache, 24% Syrah, 19%
Mourvedre, 5% Counoise; 14.8%) 2002: Med.dark color; deep
plummy/strawberry/Grenache bit toasty/oak/pungent nose; rich some
earthy/plummy bright strawberry/Grenache/strawberry soda pungent/complex
bit earthy/minerally flavor; long plummy/minerally/earthy bright/deep
strawberry/Grenache finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs;
a deep/rich wine w/ lots of WashState terroir; a really lovely
RhoneRed blend. $28.00
- Sierra Vista El Dorado Syrah Red Rock Ridge (EB; 14.0%;
www.SierraVistaWinery.com) 2002: Dark color; strong earthy/dusty/mushroomy
rather blackberry/Syrah some smoky/pungent/ oak quite interesting
nose; very tart/acidic dusty/mushroomy some blackberry/Syrah bit
tannic flavor; med.long earthy/mushroomy/dusty very tart good
blackberry/Syrah finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs; quite
an interesting wine. $25.00
- Mary Hill Columbia Valley Syrah (14.5%) 2001: Very dark
color; bit reduced/stinky nose clears to intense blackberry/blueberry/boysenberry/black
cherry/framboise slight earthy/pungent/ reduced big/ripe fruit
nose; soft dusty/earthy very intense framboise/boysenberry/black-
berry/Syrah slight minerally/charred/pungent/roasted bit chocolaty/licorice
flavor; long intense boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah/chocolaty some
pungent/roasted/smoky finish w/ light tannins; some Oz or Paso
Robles intensity of fruit, some WashState dusty/pungent character,
some NorthernRhone roasted/espresso character; terrific Syrah
for the price. $20.00
- McCrea Syrah Wash State (14.8%) 2002: Very dark color;
bit funky/damp cellar/herbal rather pungent/smoky slight roasted/coffee
deep/intense blackberry/Syrah some earthy/dusty very interesting
nose; tart very rich boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah some roasted/espresso
bit earthy beautiful flavor; very long intense boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah
slight herbal/ underripe strong roasted/pungent/espresso finish
w/ some tannins; terrific Syrah now & should improve for several
yrs; very attractively priced at $22.00.
- McCrea Amerique Yakima Valley Syrah (14.8%) 2002: Black
color; very strong Am.oak/vanilla/ bourbon/Oz-like intense blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
very intense/extracted nose; huge/ intense blackberry/blueberry/boysenberry/Syrah/very
ripe strong vanilla/bourbon/Am.oak slight licorice/chocolaty flavor;
very long bit tannic/hard very Am.oak/vanilla intense ripe/boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah/licorice
finish; huge/powerful Syrah w/ lots of Oz character; killer stuff.
$34.00
- McCrea Syrah Cuvee Orleans (small % Viognier; 14.8%) 2001:
Very dark/black color; some roasted/espresso/NRhone some smoky/pungent
very perfumed/aromatic intense boysenberry/ blackberry/Syrah slight
peppery/gamey complex nose; tart rich/perfumed blackberry/ boysenberry/Syrah
bit smoky/pungent/gamey/peppery some roasted/espresso beautiful
flavor; very long/lingering smoky/pungent/gamey rather roasted/espresso
intense blackberry/ boysenberry finishh w/ fair tannins; needs
several yrs; the most aromatic and NorthernRhone of these Syrahs;
dynamite wine. $38.50
- McCrea Syrah Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.8%) 2002: Black
color; beautiful/intense smoky/pungent/charred some roasted/espresso/peppery
bit herbal intense blackberry/Syrah beautiful complex nose; tart
rich/lush very intense boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah rather toasty/pungent/smokey
some roasted/espresso/Rhonish flavor; very long/lingering some
tannic huge/extracted intense blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry/blueberry
some smokey/pungent bit roasted/espresso/herbal/peppery finish;
needs 2-8 yrs of age; more WashState & less NRhohe than the
Boushey; incredible Syrah. $37.00
- McCrea Boushey Vnyd Syrah Yakima Valley Grand Cote Vnyd
(14.8%) 2002: Black color; much more minerally bit metallic
toasty/roasted/espresso/used fireworks bit funky/reduced/pungent
very intense blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry complex Graillot-like
nose; tart/lean/hard quite minerally/peppery/roasted/espresso
intense blackberry/Syrah bit gamey complex flavor; very intense
tannic minerally/peppery/espresso/roasted intense blackberry/Syrah
finish; needs more age; very Graillot-like in its minerality;
more NorthernRhone than the Ciel; slight funkiness/reduced character
that should age out; stunning Syrah. $37.00
- Jaffurs Santa Barbara Cnty Thompson Vnyd Petite Sirah (15.7%)
2003: Very dark/black color; very intense blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah-like
some peppery/earthy/dusty loads of intense berry fruit slight
toasty/vanilla beautiful nose; very intense blackberry/peppery
quite spicy/licorice light dusty/earthy some pungent/vanilla/oak
flavor; very long rather tannic/ hard very spicy/peppery/blackberry/licorice
bit overripe/chocolaty finish; needs much age; hard to tell this
from a Syrah; incredible fruit intensity; this & the Pride
are two of the best new PSs I've had in some time. $nc/$30.
Some
thoughts from the Bloody Pulpit:
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SierraVista: Followed these wines from the very start, afore
he started making Syrah. John MacCready's original passion
was Cabernet and even named his street that the winery's
on Cabernet Way. I think he planted Syrah sort of as an
afterthought, since there wasn't much of a track record
in Calif yet for great Syrah. Fortunately, John done did
see the light that Rhone was where it was at in Calif and
is one of Calif's pioneers in promoting Rhone varietals.
Daughter Michelle is taking more&more responsibility
for the winery operations I gather and the wines seem to
bee getting better&better. Though I find their recent
offerings to sometimes have a bit of a screechy acidity
to them, they seem to be showing more&more varietal
character and more brightness and less of the Eldorado/funkiness
they sometimes had. The ElDorado terroir gives those wines
an interesting character, almost SouthernRhone character,
that makes the SierraVista (and Steve Edmund's wines from
that area) rather unique in Calif. Their Viognier has always
been one of my favorite wines; more leaner than most in
Calif, more Julia Roberts than DollyParton in style. Good
wines.
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McCreaWnry: I've followed Doug's wines from the very start,
when he first started showing up at HdR. Probably the first
WashState producer there I think. However, since I don't
do much business out of WashState, I've been pretty hit
or miss in trying Doug's wines, mostly trying them at HdR
and RhoneRangers. They've always shown well and impressed
me in those venues, though. So when the new Fall offering
came out and I saw the Counoise and Mourvedre on them, never
having tried those varieties from WashState; I jumped at
the chance to go thru the entire lineup w/ my group. And
glad that I did. In the more quiet venue of my tasting group
(at least some of the time it's quiet); they wines were
even more impressive than I recalled. We tasting some of
these at the last HdR Seminar on WashState Syrah and I recall
also being impressed. All these were terrific to killer
wines.
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WashStateWines: Been following these wines from the very
start as well with an Associated Vintners GWT many a year
ago, given to me by one of its investors. That operation
morphed into Columbia Wnry/David Lake some yrs ago. Of course,
the Cabs and the Merlots were their first really great wines
I thought. They always showed less fruit and much more terroir
than similar wines from anywhere else. Alas, I often found
those early ones pretty heavily bludgeoned by burnt/charred/French
oak and then quit following them with the same excitement.
However, when I tasted RobertGoodfriend's recent versions,
I was pretty impressed with them. Time for a revisit methinks.
The overpowering oak seems not to be a problem w/ their
rendition of the Rhone varietals. It's oftentimes noticible,
but the power of the Syrah fruit seems to stand up to the
oak. And that terroir thing makes them often show much the
same smoky/roasted/espresso character, in many cases, to
their NorthernRhone brethern, though seldom to they show
the elegance & finesse of the French versions. But my
impression is that some of the greatest Syrahs in the world
are coming out of WashState. A force to be reckoned with.
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Jaffurs PetiteSirah: This btl was a gift from Craig Jaffurs
for us to try. We had first seen this wine last Spring when
DaveYates tasted w/ our group and showed us a barrel sample.
We were so impressed w/ it our group ordered 5 cases worth.
This is a wine I've labeled the Archibald Cuvee. I've joked
about how Larry would strut about and preen afore my group
about his winemaking experience with Craig last year. In
point of fact, his responsibility was plucking out all the
earwigs from the Thompson grapes the day the came into the
winery. But I can't argue that this is a wine Larry has
followed from the very start...but even BEFORE the very
start. That's a claim I cannot make. I plan to have an "Archibald
Cuvee" stamp made up and stamp that on the labels of the
wines when they arrive next Spring. That should make them
especially valuable on the auction market I suspect.
Tom
Hill
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© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
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