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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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New Wines - October 6, 2004
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- Tement
Gelber Muskateller (12%) Berghausen/SudSteirmark/Austria 2001:
Pale yellow color; quite fragrant/muscatty/floral slight petrol/earthy
pleasant nose; soft/fat off-dry somewhat bitter pretty/low-key/floral/muscatty
simple flavor; med.short rather bitter light/muscatty/floral finish;
a pretty nose but rather bitter on the palate; serve at warmer
temperature. $17.00
- S.
Rhodes Vnyds West Elks GWT (EB; 15.5%) Hotchkiss/CO 2001:
Dark gold/brown color; interesting/ bizarre strong grapey/overripe
some botrytis/peachy syrup some rotted apple/cider old fruitcake
rather complex/bizarre/weird nose; off-dry very hot/alcoholic/searing
rotted apple/peach syrup/ cider/fruit cocktail strange flavor;
long off-dry quite alcoholic very ripe fruit/rotted apple/ botrytis/peach
syrup finish; very bizarre/exotic wine w/ no trace of GWT character;
actually rather interesting except for the alcohol on the palate.
$20.00
- Weingut
Schloss Gobelsburg Zweigelt (12.5%) Kamptal/Lagenlois/Osterreich;
2000: Med.color; strong buttered popcorn/toasty/charred/pungent
dusty/earthy bit raspberry; off-dry rather Beaujolais-like cheap/grapey/2$Chuck-light
slight earthy/raspberry flavor; med.short light/Beaujolais/grapey
some earthy/dusty/raspberry finish; interesting nose but doesn't
measure up on the palate; way overpriced at $21.95.
- Maryhill
Columbia Valley Fort Rock Red RTW (14.0%; CS/M/CF/Syr; www.MaryHillWinery.com)
Goldendale/WA 2001: Med.dark color; rather herbal/green bell
pepper near vegetal some toasty/oak bit rustic/Bordeaux rather
interesting nose; soft rather herbal/bell pepper near vegetal
some toasty/ smoky/oak flavor; med.long herbal/vegetal/bell pepper
fairly rich finish w/ light tannins; much like a minor/rustic
Bdx w/o the nastiness; pleasant food wine but pricey for what
it is. $16.00.
- Masut
Redwood Valley Mendocino Cnty Pinot Noir (14.5%; DijonClones #113
& #115; www.Masut.com; Biodynamic Grown/Forsythe Creek) Robert
Fetzer 2002: Med.dark color; attractive black cherry/plummy
bit earthy/tomato sauce light toasty/oak interesting nose; soft
rather buttery/oak somewhat ripe/plummy/tomatoey/soupy slight
black cherry/Pinot some toasty/oak flavor; med. toasty/ oak plummy/tomato
sauce/ripe light black cherry/licorice finish w/ light tannins;
tastes like Pinot grown not where it should be planted, lacks
zip; rather dull & plodding Pinot; way overpriced no matter
how it was farmed. $34.00
- David
Bruce Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (14.1%; www.DavidBruceWinery.com)
2002: Med.dark color; very attractive black cherry/cherry
some toasty/Burgundian/oak bit earthy nose; tart somewhat tannic
quite black cherry/cherry/bright bit dusty/earthy rather Burgundian/oak
flavor; long black cherry/ cherry/Pinot light earthy/dusty toasty/oak
finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs; a very attractive Burgubdian
Pinot at a fair price. $26.95
- Dry
Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Reserve Zinfandel (14.5%) 2000:
Med.dark color; lovely/lush blackberry/raspberry/ spicy light
pungent/oak rather perfumed/fragrant nose; tart bit lean/hard/tannic
quite spicy/black- berry/raspberry some pencilly/oak flavor; med.long
tannic/hard spicy/blackberry/raspberry/Zinfandel strong pencilly/oak
finish; needs some age; lovely perfumed nose but a bit hard &
tannic on the palate. $26.00
- Cline
AncientVines Zinfandel Calif (15.0%; 80-100 ur old Oakley vnyds)
2003: Med.light color; very attractive plummy/blackberry/Zinfandel
bit eucalyptus light Am.oak/vanilla nose; soft plummy/blackberry/Zinfandel
bit Lodi/mushroomy/earthy light eucalyptus/minty bit dusty/old
vines flavor; soft/lush blackberry/ plummy/Zinfandel light minty/menthol
finish w/ light tannins; attractive wine at a good price; seems
to have a fair amount of Lodi Zinfandel therein. $15.00
- Chateau
Montelena Napa Valley Zinfandel JohnRolleriReserve (EB; 14.0%)
1984: Med.dark color w/ little browning; strong cedary/pencilly/oak/cigar
box bit pungent/licorice slight berry nose; bit dried-out/tannic
quite cedary/cigar box/pencilly/oaked some pungent/licorice/charred
complex slight raspberry flavor; long dried-out/astringent/tannic
strong cedary/cigar box pungent/licorice finish; rather dried-out/tannic
on the palate but still interesting and not totally dead. $10.50
- Mayacamas
Late Harvest Zinfandel (17%) 1976: Very dark color w/ little
browning; rather wet Army blanket/wet dog fur/bit musty nose clears
to a late harvest/pruney/raisened/portish nose; rather hot/alcoholic
quite licorice/pruney/raisened/late harvesty slight jammy/licorice/fruit
flavor; quite astringent/ tannic rather pruney/raisened pretty
hot/alcoholic dried out some charred/tarry finish; pretty dried
out/astringent and overripe/pruney wine but not totally dead and
no signs of oxidation. $14.40
- Eric
Texier Cotes du Rhone (13%) 2001: Light color; very attractive
bright/strawberry/Grenache nose; tart bit lean bright/strawberry/Grenache
some earthy flavor; short bright/strawberry/spicy/Grenache finish
w/ light tannins; bit pricey but an attractive Calif-style Cote
du Rhone with an ugly label. $17.00
- La
Croix du Verre Crozes-Hermitage (12.5%; 100% 61 yr old vine Syrah;
4000 btls) Oliver Dumaine/Larnage 2001: Very dark color; quite
walnutty/dusty/old vines smoky/pungent some roasted bit WashState/green
olive complex nose; rather hard/tannic fairly roasted/pungent
walnutty/green olive somewhat charred/tarry/pungent flavor; long
hard/tannic rather roasted/pungent walnutty/green olive finish;
not much fruit but lots of pungent/roasted character; a bit like
a Graillot from WashState; needs much age; will be interesting
to see what this turns in to. $22.00
- Cline
Los Carneros Syrah Carneros (14.5%; www.ClineCellars.com) 2002:
Very dark color; rather strong/ pungent/smoky/toasty bit coffee/roasted
some peppery/eucalyptus bit toasty/oak nose; soft rather earthy/
plummy bit pungent/smoky/toasty/oak flavor; med.short toasty/smoky
slight eucalyptus/peppery finish w/ light tannins; interesting
nose but doesn't deliver on the palate. $20.00
- d'Arenberg
The Laughing Magpie McLaren Vale Shiraz/Viognier(6%) (Foot Trod,
Basket Pressed; www.DArenberg.com.Au; 14.5%) 2003: Near black
color; strong Am.oaked/vanilla strong licorice/pungent/chocolaty/boysenberry/ripe
Syrah fruit perfumed nose; rather hard/tannic/tart vanilla/ Am.oak
strong blueberry/blackberry/Syrah/licorice/chocolaty lush flavor;
very long strong Am.oaked/ vanilla very strong chocolaty/boysenberry/Syrah/ripe/licorice
rather hard/tannic finish; big but structured and needs age; don't
detect any Viognier in there at all. Fairly priced at $33.95.
- Garretson
Wine Company The Aisling Paso Robles Syrah (16.6%; AmericanOak;
500 cs) 2002: Black color; beautiful intense blackberry/licorice/Syrah/ripe
bit dusty some vanilla/oak powerful nose; soft/lush very intense
boysenberry/plummy/licorice/blackberry/Syrah some vanilla/oak/toasted
flavor; very long soft/lush/ripe blackberry/Syrah/ripe/boysenberry
finish w/ slight tannins; a huge ripe jammy Syrah. $30.00
- Garretson
Wine Company The Craic Central Coast Syrah (16.4%; 625 cs) 2002:
Same black color; intense blackberry/Syrah/licorice/jammy
slight coffee/roasted bit volatile/aromatic some dusty/complex
nose; big/huge intense blackberry/boysenberry/jammy/Syrah bit
more hot/alcoholic bit charred/toasty/coffee/ tarry flavor; very
long very ripe/jammy/boysenberry/Syrah slight toasty/charred/coffee/tarry
finish w/ some tannins; a bit more intense but still not an over-the-top
Syrah. $30.00
And
some blatherings from the Bloody Pulpit:
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Rhodes GWT: This was one very bizarre wine. Actually,
I kinda liked it and thought it has its place in the wine
world. It struck me as GWT left out on the vine well into
the winter. It had a bit of that character you get in
rotten apples that have fallen to the ground in the Fall
and then have lain there under the snow until they're
soft&soggy and then when you walk around in the yard
in your bare feet in the Spring, the stuff squeezes up
between your toes as you step on one. A very distinct
smell & taste. It also had a bit of botrytis to it.
So I would guess the grapes had seen a pretty extended
slice of life afore harvest. I think it would go well
with some sort of baked fruit dessert, like an apple pie
or cobbler. The only problem with the wine is the very
hot/alcoholic character it has on the palate. Interesting
stuff.
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Mayacamas Zinfandel: This was about the fourth LateHrvst
Zinfandel that Mayacamas had produced I believe. The first
('68) was from Napa Valley Zinfandel grapes. The remaining
ones were from Ed&Kay Baldinelli's vnyd up in the
Shenandoah Valley, now owned by BillEaston. Old vine stuff.
The wine was pretty shakey and on its last legs. What
was amazing that it was ullaged way down onto the straight-side
of the btl. Between a fourth and a third of the wine had
leaked out around the cork. But there were no signs in
the wine of oxidation or this great ullage. So much for
the importance of high-fills in an old btl of wine!! I
know...heresy!! The wine, upon opening & pouring,
showed no signs of browning whatsoever. There was about
a hlf cup left in the btl after decanting. It sttod opened
on the counter overnight. The next morning the dregs had
turned an ugly murky brown. Apt testimony to the rapidity
of oxidation in a highly reduced state wine I guess??
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Garretson Syrahs: These are Mat's bottom-end Syrahs. They
don't act it. At $30/btl here in NM, they're quite fairly
priced I think. At $21 on futures, they're a steal. I
was the only one in my group smart enough to order them
as futures (that should be read as..."That marketing guy
Garretson has me right where he wants me"!!). Damn fine
wine, though I'm not sure how long they'll age.
And
then a few dessert wines to celebrate Gary&Charlotte's
anniversary:
- Emilio
Bulfon Ucelut Venezia Giuli IGT (??%; www.VinoTerra.Net)
NV: Med.gold color; rather musty/corked slight grapey/perfumed
nose; fairly sweet grapey/earthy quite musty/corked flavor;
too corked to tell much about this wine. $22.00/??
- Marolo
Liquer made w/ Grappa & Camomile (35%; Grappa from
Nebbiolo grapes; Camomile flowers steeped in grappa for
11 months) Paola Marola/Mussotto d'Alba NV: Med.light
gold color; very exotic/fragrant/alcoholic/Cognac very
perfumed/FrenchWhoreHouse amazing nose; rather sweet/alcoholic
very exotic/perfumed/aromatic/Camomile/FWH flavor w/ a
finish that goes on&on. $31.00/hlf
- Ch.
Reynella McLaren Vale Old Cave FineOld Tawney Port (20%;
average age: 12 yrs) NV: Light red slightly brown
color; very strong porty/Madeira intense vanilla/oak quite
fumey/alcoholic nose; rather sweet very alcoholic/porty
some pungent/nutty/licorice rather vanilla/oaked flavor;
long hot/fumey/alcoholic/ porty interesting nutty/licorice/coffee
complex finish; pretty fumey/alcoholic but interesting
Port; fairly priced at $14.50/500 ml.
And
the blathering don't stop here:
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Ucelut: What a heart-breaker this btl was...friggin' corks!!
This is one of the indigenous varieties Bulfon has brought
back from near-extinction. My first Ucelut experience....down
the tubes. This was a very strange btl. No listing of
alc content anywhere on the btl. No indication of the
btl size anywhere, though it appeared to be a 500ml, but
I couldn't tell for sure. My e-mails to the importer (VinoTerra)
have not been responded to to clarify these questions.
I was really looking forward to trying this wine...friggin'corks!!
- MaroloGrappa:
Not a big fan of Grappa as I find the burn going down
and the fumes in the nose a bit hard to take. Maybe as
a Liquer is the highest calling for Grappa. I had this
Liquer up at Frasca in Boulder and was blown away by it.
This btl seemed not to be as intensely Camomile as I recall,
but still pretty amazing stuff. Priced at $64/hlf in one
store and $31/hlf in the other.
TomHill
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© 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved
No original material may be reproduced without written consent
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