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by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.


Some More New Wines - February 27, 2013

We tried last night (2/27/13) mostly Some More New Wines:

  1. BedrockWineCo Compagni PortisVnyd/SonomaVlly WW (Planted: 1954; 13.8%; GWT/Riesling/ Chard/RoterVeltliner; 1 ton/acre) 2011: Med.light gold color; very lovely perfumed/fragrant very floral/pineapple/Riesling/peach blossom some GWT/lychee very exotic Alsatian-like very aromatic nose; very tart/dry rather rich/lush intense floral/R/pineapple/lychee/GWT/spicy structured flavor; very long/lingering tart/dry/rich/lush intense R/floral/pineapple/lychee/GWT/peach blossom finish; very balanced/rich/lush w/ a nice acidic backbone; reminds me of a Weinbach PinotGris or Riesling; one of the best Alsatian wines I've had from Calif at a great price. $26.00
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  2. Carlisle TheDerivative SonomaCnty WW (13.8%; Vines planted: 1886-1920; 76% Semillon/24% Muscadelle; 250 cs) 2010: Med.gold color; strong figgy/waxy/classic Semillon some earthy/mineral lovely fragrant nose; slightly tart rather rich/lush/textured/glycerined strong figgy/waxy/Semillon slighht earthy/mineral/stony flavor; very long/lingering intense waxy/Semillon/figgy/ripe bit earthy/mineral finish w/ a buttery aftertaste that goes on and on; a very classic Semillon profile w/o the stoney/earthy character of Bdx and not the bracing/screechy acidity of HunterVlly; a beautiful balanced/rich very classic Semillon, maybe better than the Kalins. $29.60
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  3. Harrington Chard CoastViewVnyd/MontereyCnty (13.8%) 2011: Med.gold color strong mineral/ chalky/earthy/stoney/perfumed talc light melony/lemony/Chard nose w/ a bit of pungent/reductive smell that blows off fairly rapidly; very tart rather tight/lean strong mineral/stony/chalky/perfumed talc light/delicate/lively some melony/lemony/Chard citrus/grapefruity/tangy flavor; long strong mineral/ chalky/stoney/perfumed talk light/delicate lemony/melony/Chard finish; Chard fruit plays the back seat to the mineral/chalky character; a rather light/lean/vibrant kind of Chard that reminds a bit of Chablis or Sancerre. $25.00
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  4. Chester'sAnvil Chard StagecoachVnyd/AtlasPeak/NapaVlly (14.0%; www.LagierMeredith.com; www.PottWine.com) 2010: Med.dark gold color; very strong vanilla/Fr.oak/piney/toasty/smokey/toasted coconut/ZagNut Bar strong melony/floral/Chard/ripe nose; soft very lush/rich/glycerined/mouthfilling ripe/melony/Chard strong toasty/toasted coconut/ZagNut Bar big fruit flavor; very long very strong toasty/toasted coconut/ZagNut Bar/vanilla/Fr.oak soft melony/Chard/floral/carnations finish; oak is at the forefront here but big/ripe/strong Chard fruit is there to support it. $35.50
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  5. Vietti DOCG: Barbera d'Asti TreVigne (14%; U; www.Vietti.com) CastiglioneFalletto 2009: Med.dark color; some earthy rather classic Barbera/spicy/Italian sausage very light oak slight floral nose; quite tart/acid bit screechy very spicy/Barbera/Italian sausage light oak rather modern-style flavor w/ light/ hard/bitey tannins; med.long very spicy/Barbera/Italian sausage light earthy/dusty light oak finish w/ tough/bitey/tannins; a pretty classic Asti Barbera that's a bit tough on the palate and needs some pizza. $21.00 (AV)
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  6. Massolino DOC: Barbera d'Alba (14%) Serralunga d'Alba 2010: Dark color; quite earthy/dusty/loamy/ mushroomy rather terroir-driven slight Barbera/spicy rather clunky/rustic/coarse nose; very earthy/dusty/ loamy/mushroomy/root cellar rather tannic/hard little fruit flavor; med.long quite earthy/dusty/loamy rather hard/coarse/agressive/tannic finish; almost no Barbera fruit and very earthy/loamy coarse character. $26.50 (KK)
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  7. Il Podere dell'Olivos Barbera "Riserva Buon Natale" BienNacidoVnyd/SBC (13%) 1993: Med.light color w/ fair bricking; very strong funky/mouse nest/hantavirus/decayed leaves/root cellar slight cedary/old red nose w/ a bit of floral perfume underneath; rather tired/old red/cedary some floral/violets/perfumey slight funky/mouse nest flavor w/ light/smooth tannins; med.long light floral/violets bit tired/old red/cedary/oak some funky/mouse nest finish w/ smooth/graceful tannins; a pretty dreadful nose but some interesting/pretty things on the palate.
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  8. Il Podere dell'Olivos Barbera "Riserva Buon Natale" BienNacidoVnyd/SBC (EB; 13%) 1996: Med.color w/ some bricking; very intense bretty/fecal/Kansas outhouse/barnyardy somewhat earthy/dusty complex (??) nose; tart/tangy quite earthy/dusty some bretty/outhouse slight floral/spicy/Barbera flavor w/ light/ smooth tannins; long earthy/dusty slight floral/spicy bit unclean/bretty/outhouse finish w/ smooth tannins; not so bad on the palate but hard to get past the dreadful nose.
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  9. Forlorn-Hope L'Asino Santo Barbera ShakeRidgeVnyd/AmadorCnty (13.9%; 17 cs; 27 cs; SansSoufre, no SO2) 2011: Dark color; really lovely spicy/Barbera/Italian sausage some dusty/earthy quite spicy/licorice rather floral/lilacs very perfumey/fragrant nose; very tart/acid some angular/tannic very spicy/Barbera/Italian sausage light floral/lilacs/perfumed flavor; very long tart/lean/tangy some floral/lilacs classic/Barbera/Italian sausage finish w/ some hard/bitey tannins; a classic Barbera d'Asti...from Calif, no less; very different in style from nearly all Calif Barberas. $29.00
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  10. Forlorn-Hope San Hercurmer Delle Frecce Barbera ShakeRidgeVnyd/AmadorCnty (127 cs; 13.9%) 2011: Dark color; very/very similar nose but a bit more reticent/dumber and slightly less perfumed; quite tart/tangy slightly more softer/lusher a bit flatter on the palate; really hard to tell much difference at this point in time. $35.00
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  11. Rosa d'OroVnyds Barbera ClearLake/LakeCnty (10 brls; EB; 14.5%) 2010: Med.light color; very strange rather grapefruity/metallic/burning metal some earthy/dusty slight cherry/ruhbarb bit band-aid/sweaty sox/corn flaxes rather bizarre nose; tart earthy/dusty slight cherry/ruhbarb rough/rustic/ lean/thin some pungent/metallic/sweaty sox/corn flakes slight Barbera/spicy flavor w/ light tannins; med.long metallic/earthy/dusty metallic/corn flakes/band-aid/sweaty sox slight ruhbarb/cherry finish w/ light tannins; not all bad but a rather bizarre rendition of Barbera on the savory side; maybe the LakeCnty terroir speaking to us?? $20.00
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  12. BedrockWineCo Syrah NorthCoast (14.0%; AlderSprings/Hudson T/Shanel/Griffen'sLair + Viognier/SteinerRanch) 2011: Dark color; some blackberry/Syrah bit peppery/cold-climate some Rhonish/whole cluster quite spicy fairly attractive nose; fairly tart bit peppery/cold-climate/olive tapenade slight Rhonish light oak flavor w/ modest tannins; med.long light peppery/olive tapenade some blackberry/spicy/Syrah finish w/ modest tannins; a nice Rhonish character from the whole-cluster that reminds me a bit of a CtCosme CdR than Calif Syrah; quite a pleasant red at a very fair price. $21.00
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  13. OjaiVnyds Calif Viognier RollRanch (7 brls; 10%) 2002: Dark gold murky brown color; very strong passito/orangey/rotted apple/overripe bit piney/herbal fairly complex nose; soft very sweet intense orangey/passito/raisened rather complex flavor; very long very intense passito/grapey/orangey/rotted fruit/stewed apples very sweet soft complex finish; very sweet and very passito-like w/ no Viognier character at all; would like more acidity; should still be good for another 10 yrs or so.


More inane stuff from TheBloodyPulpit:

1. I was mightly impressed by both the Carlisle and Bedrock whites. For guys who are Zin specialists, they do pretty good w/ whites as well. The Bedrock was one of the best Alsatian-style whites from Calif I've had and I kept staring at the btl because it was the wrong shape.

Back in the old days, there was a lot of SauvignonVert planted in Calif...which made pretty ordinary whites. The DNA typing indicated that most SauvVert was, in fact, Muscadelle de Bordelais...thogh some is also Tocai Friulano. The TTB permits either to be used to label SauvVert. It is presumably what Mike used in his Derivative. This wine is one of the best Semillons out of Calif I can recall. Wonder how it'd hold up against an Ygrec?
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2. Chards: These two Chards, which I liked both a lot, were as about as far apart stylisticly as you can get in Calif. The Harrington is a tiny ballet dancer pirouting across the palate in SwanLake....the Chester'sAnvil an Oprah galumping across the palate in combat boots.
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3. Barbera: Neither one of the Italian Barberas did much for me...the Vietti being more classic and my favorite of the two. I've tasted a fair number of Barberas from Calif over the yrs. It's a variety that I wish we'd see more of from Calif. There should be a fair amount of old-vine Barbera around and I'd love to see what MikeOfficer or Morgan Twain-Peterson could do with it. I've had some old Martini Barberas that had aged into quite lovely old bones. Some that CaryGott made up at Montevina in those early days were sensational.

I was expecting a bit more of JimClendenan's IlPoderes. They were pretty tannic and acid in their youth (bought thru the WineCask futures program) and I thought they'd go the distance. They were both pretty hard to take in the nose. And they were a bit tired...though they didn't have that dried out/astringent character that old Calif reds can take on.

Forlorn-Hope is, of course, MattRorick's effort w/ grape varieties that are a forlorn hope. The grapes came from the highly-regarded ShakeRidge vnyd of AnnKraemer's up above the town of SutterCreek and south a bit from the ShenandoahVlly proper. Matt released two Barberas, presumably made the same way, but one w/ no SO2 added. The SanSoufre version, at opening, seemed just a bit brighter & livelier. After two hours later, I couldn't really tell a nickel's worth of difference. Calif Barberas tend to be on the rich/lush side, not too far from Calif Zins in style. Matt's was definitely more along the style of a good Barbera d'Asti...very bright & lively and with a laser-sharp acidity. It will be interesting to contrast these two wines w/ some age
on them.

TomHill

[Additional Wine Reviews from Tom Hill]

 

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